I am looking for any help on replacing my 2004 V70 2.4L ball joints and control arm bushings.
Any information or tips about pressing out the bushings would be greatly appreciated. I do have a press. Also the ball joints, are they tricky or just your standard ball joint?
Thank you for any help.
Ball Joint Control Arm Bushings
- oragex
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General consensus is that replacing the complete arm is times easier than pressing the bushings. If looking to keep the car for another few years, there are only two durable options for the arms, either Lemforder or original Volvo part. I did buy the bushings off Ebay and had them pressed in, to press out the old ones you need to drill the rubber, throw the center metal part, ten punch out the outer sleeve (a small groove cut helps punching it out). Something like this
Pressing in new bushings requires special adapters although this user managed to use standard pipe sections https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=23405 . With these adapters you can punch in the new bushings using some grease to help.
To get a new ball joint into the new control arm here are a few tips that help
Pressing in new bushings requires special adapters although this user managed to use standard pipe sections https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=23405 . With these adapters you can punch in the new bushings using some grease to help.
To get a new ball joint into the new control arm here are a few tips that help
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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ryanmcgrim
- Posts: 31
- Joined: 9 June 2013
- Year and Model: 04xc70
- Location: boston
I had a pretty easy time getting the old ball joint out with loaner tools from advanced, and the new one went in pretty easy after a day in the freezer, with just a few light taps with a sledge on a pipe.
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Tonyx
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If you are doing the ball joints, a slide hammer that will join with the ball joint stud works great. You will have to raise the car high enough to be able to fit a slide hammer below the ball joint(if on hoist then it's non-issue).
I had to weld a spare nut that fit the ball joint stud to a slide hammer end piece to get this to work.
Control arm bushings probably would be hard to just press out due to corrosion. I ended up pressing the inner sleeve and rubber out with a socket that was smaller than ID of the outer sleeve. Then took hacksaw to thin out the outer sleeve at two places. This allowed me to take the tension out of the outer sleeve to just hammer it out easily.
You may have to get creative to support the control arm in your press. A free standing vice works well as does short 2.5in diameter steel plumbing pipes from HomeDepot. 3in - 4in long pieces come in handy. They have threaded ends but work well to support the arm during pressing.
Tip on reassembly: Attach the lower control arm first to car. Set the knuckle on top of the ball joint then slide in the drive shaft. Push down on the knuckle until the strut attachment holes align with knuckle. This is the easiest method I found.
This means the knuckle is free of tie rod and the ABS sensor wire and the drive shaft first.
About pressing in new bushing: Take a picture or make reasonably accurate drawing of how the bushing are aligned in the control arm. The front bushing especially is indexed to be level in normal ride height condition. The larger flat surface of mounting tab actually faces outward.
I used Lemforder bushing and it is hydraulic bushing like the Volvo one. Others seems to be solid rubber so characteristic is different. I accidentally damaged one Lemforder bushing so I know it's hydraulic design
Rear donut bushing is Volvo. I've used non-Volvo before and they don't last long and crack.
I had to weld a spare nut that fit the ball joint stud to a slide hammer end piece to get this to work.
Control arm bushings probably would be hard to just press out due to corrosion. I ended up pressing the inner sleeve and rubber out with a socket that was smaller than ID of the outer sleeve. Then took hacksaw to thin out the outer sleeve at two places. This allowed me to take the tension out of the outer sleeve to just hammer it out easily.
You may have to get creative to support the control arm in your press. A free standing vice works well as does short 2.5in diameter steel plumbing pipes from HomeDepot. 3in - 4in long pieces come in handy. They have threaded ends but work well to support the arm during pressing.
Tip on reassembly: Attach the lower control arm first to car. Set the knuckle on top of the ball joint then slide in the drive shaft. Push down on the knuckle until the strut attachment holes align with knuckle. This is the easiest method I found.
This means the knuckle is free of tie rod and the ABS sensor wire and the drive shaft first.
About pressing in new bushing: Take a picture or make reasonably accurate drawing of how the bushing are aligned in the control arm. The front bushing especially is indexed to be level in normal ride height condition. The larger flat surface of mounting tab actually faces outward.
I used Lemforder bushing and it is hydraulic bushing like the Volvo one. Others seems to be solid rubber so characteristic is different. I accidentally damaged one Lemforder bushing so I know it's hydraulic design
Rear donut bushing is Volvo. I've used non-Volvo before and they don't last long and crack.
2003 XC70 230K and counting..,
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vtl
- Posts: 4727
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Easy to replace if you have newer LCA, which can be put squarely on a vise (2002 V70 has curved LCA - PITA to replace bushings). I got two sockets of appropriate size in Lowes or Home Depot or Sears, can't remember. Just take the front/rear bushings and a caliper with you and pick up the proper sockets.oragex wrote:General consensus is that replacing the complete arm is times easier than pressing the bushings. If looking to keep the car for another few years, there are only two durable options for the arms, either Lemforder or original Volvo part. I did buy the bushings off Ebay and had them pressed in, to press out the old ones you need to drill the rubber, throw the center metal part, ten punch out the outer sleeve (a small groove cut helps punching it out). Something like this
Pressing in new bushings requires special adapters although this user managed to use standard pipe sections https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=23405 . With these adapters you can punch in the new bushings using some grease to help.
If you follow my setup - better put a weight plate on top of socket, that way you don't need to align the whole construction superprecisely
Lemforder front bushing has a bit longer metal bracket, so socket compresses its rubber a bit. Volvo OE bushing goes in/out without problems at all.
Couple of months ago I did it the second time, pressing out Lemforder/Meyle for OE, because I was changing everything in suspension to OE to have exact new Volvo ride, and the bushings replacement itself took me maybe 15 minutes per LCA. Btw, Lemforder were like new after 30-40k miles, but oh well, I've got OE already.
Last edited by vtl on 22 Dec 2015, 11:31, edited 1 time in total.
- oragex
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The picture doesn't show up, new LCA are for S60/V70 as well? I know they were changed for the XC90 to black metal ones around 2005
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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vtl
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Dammit Google, again, you piss me off
Fixed the link, sorry about that.
LCAs in my 2002 V70 have curved shape of the tip where the front bushing sits, like that:
And I had a nightmare aligning and securing it in/on a vise.
In 2005 XC70 the curvy part has gone in favor of square surface, which sits perfectly on a vise:

LCAs in my 2002 V70 have curved shape of the tip where the front bushing sits, like that:

And I had a nightmare aligning and securing it in/on a vise.
In 2005 XC70 the curvy part has gone in favor of square surface, which sits perfectly on a vise:

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dialex
- Posts: 28
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- Year and Model: 760 1990 B230FT
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I have the special tool set - if you are near Tampa bay area, you are more than welcome to bring your bushings of choice and control arm, along with a beer or two, and you are good to go- I have done at least 3 sets so far and it takes me close to no time.
Alex
1990 760 Wagon B230FT; 1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2007 V70 2.5T XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
2007 S60 2.5T + few parts cars: S60 /V70 /C70 2004
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT,
1987 740 GLE,
1990 760 Wagon B230FT; 1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2007 V70 2.5T XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
2007 S60 2.5T + few parts cars: S60 /V70 /C70 2004
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT,
1987 740 GLE,
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