Hello,
So the volvo has had issue where the car wouldn't start because the battery was dead, bought a new battery about a year ago, but it still happens.
Don't know if it's a related issue but sometimes the car would stay on after removing the key and you could spin the key in the ignition, think the immobilizer 9442961 might have an issue, previous owner had a heavy set of keys. Now I think might be a worn ignition switch lock column cylinder not sure the part number is.
Another thread says use a multi-meter to test the draw, 50mA or below ideal?
Thanks
2000 S70 Base battery drain?
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Ozark Lee
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Mine is typically around 5 to 10 mA on the older 850s. I've never done a draw test with the ME7 car but I would guess it to be in that neighborhood. It will read sky high until the interior lights time out so don't get spooked. If the ignition tumbler is going bad that could easily explain it.
...Lee
...Lee
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I'll check my ME7 draw when I get home
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If you're spending money on a new ignition lock assembly,
talk to the dealer about ordering it by VIN so that your
existing chipped keys will still work. This will save you
a real PITA with security system in the long run.
And you won't have to monkey around with
different keys for the ignition vs doors/trunk.
talk to the dealer about ordering it by VIN so that your
existing chipped keys will still work. This will save you
a real PITA with security system in the long run.
And you won't have to monkey around with
different keys for the ignition vs doors/trunk.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
Hello,BEJinFbk wrote:If you're spending money on a new ignition lock assembly,
talk to the dealer about ordering it by VIN so that your
existing chipped keys will still work. This will save you
a real PITA with security system in the long run.
And you won't have to monkey around with
different keys for the ignition vs doors/trunk.
I was just thinking keys might be an issue. Sounds like http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-OEM-98-00 ... mS&vxp=mtr would not work then because I don't know the vin of the used part?
So the ignition lock assembly aka tumbler sounds like the culprit for the dead battery and not immobilizer.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13514
Unfortunately the links are now dead, is there another link to directions for 2000 s70? This 98 v70 thread https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=34472 referred to it separately so I assume it's different.
For clarity's sake: I am to be replacing the tumbler a.k.a. "ignition switch lock column cylinder" p/n 8626325? Because a battery issue sounds more like the electrical switch p/n 9447804 on the left?
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scot850
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Why are you replacing the ignition switch/keys? Unless I have missed something, it is typically the electrical portion only that fails. I have replace that on 3/3 of my 850/P80's, but never had to replace a ignition tumbler (yet!!).
Even then, it may not be your ignition switch at all. A bad alternator can drain a battery also This can be difficult to identify as it can be random. First I'd suggest you do the power drain testing to see what level you have before spending money on parts.
Neil.
Even then, it may not be your ignition switch at all. A bad alternator can drain a battery also This can be difficult to identify as it can be random. First I'd suggest you do the power drain testing to see what level you have before spending money on parts.
Neil.
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- BEJinFbk
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Go back up to the original post where it says:
"sometimes the car would stay on after removing the key and you could spin the key in the ignition".
And the reason to go dealer with a VIN based tumbler is so that it comes
to you set up for the keys that you already have. AND it's minty fresh!
"sometimes the car would stay on after removing the key and you could spin the key in the ignition".
And the reason to go dealer with a VIN based tumbler is so that it comes
to you set up for the keys that you already have. AND it's minty fresh!
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
As stated above, the key spins freely in the ignition pass the 0-1-2 settings (around the world it goes). I could try the electrical part which looks like $20 on ebay used. But I think a previous poster inferred that a faulty tumbler or mechanical seemed more likely.
Probably will hold off a little bit on the mechanical replacement part because one of the threads I read on the topic; involved drilling into the cylinder or at least the screw heads to assist in removing it. Checking for youtube videos for my year and model.
I understand the importance/ ease of use of having a tumbler with the correct vin.
Probably will hold off a little bit on the mechanical replacement part because one of the threads I read on the topic; involved drilling into the cylinder or at least the screw heads to assist in removing it. Checking for youtube videos for my year and model.
I understand the importance/ ease of use of having a tumbler with the correct vin.
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cn90
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Since your tumbler goes around the world, I am not sure the FREE fix applies, but give it a try and report back:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=67531
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=67531
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2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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