2000 Volvo S40 - Faulty ignition coil electrical connectors

[AGSchear]

My 2000 S40 is having a bit of trouble again. Hopefully you guys can help me out! I'm having really bad misfiring problems. I took the car to my mechanic and he, like myself, believes the problems are attributed to the worn, highly corroded, falling-apart electrical connectors attached to the ignition coils. I did some research and it looks a lot like a similar problem people had with their mid-90's Volvo 960's. The plastic piece that holds the wires in place is just breaking apart and I bet in time it will no longer even hold the wires.

Here's an image from a 960 with a similar problem; I imagine my connector will look like this soon: http://www.davebarton.com/960-coilconnect.jpg

The Volvo dealer tells my mechanic the only way to fix the problem is with a $1,400 entire new wiring harness. I think there must be another way! Does anyone know a solution to this issue? Where to get a pigtail with this connector? Any help is so greatly appreciated!!!

Edit: Did a search and saw someone mention something about using electrical tape to secure a connection. Anyone have more info about this fix??

[traxcavator]

What I did was to replace/solder new wires to the connector terminals, and then connect them to the original wires further back using crimp butt splices. I cleaned out as much of the brittle old stuff that was supposed to be flexible as possible, and washed things with carburetor cleaner (a good dousing with alcohol would probably do as well). Then I mounted the connector and cables to a coil and repeatedly applied "liquid electrical tape" (available from hardware stores or automotive stores) at the back of the connector to hold the wires in place with some flexible stuff to allow a bit of movement. I let it dry overnight, and then put it back together.
It is fairly easy to remove the whole ignition harness from the firewall connector to the VVT solenoid, so you can work on it on a bench. You can replace individual wires with new wire. Ideally one would use teflon insulated wire (better for high temperature), however regular stranded automotive wire should be fine. I recommend replacing the skinny 20 gauge or 22 gauge with 18 gauge because the 18 guage is a bit stiffer, and won't be as prone to breaking. Try to keep the colors somewhat similar to avoid confusion later. If you do it well, it may be better than new. It may also help to leave the cover over the coils, etc. off so that things don't get as hot.
John