Help with decision to purchase XC90

[iRenaissanceMan]

I took a look at a 2004 XC90 T6 this past week. It's got 125k miles and seems to drive pretty well. However, under the hood, I found some interesting things. It looks like the maintenance wasn't done regularly. Just wanted to get a pro's opinion on the topic.

1. power steering fluid low
2. coolant low
3. ATF fluid low
4. engine oil sludge and low oil (see pics). the dip stick also had dried (burned up) oil in the creases/folds of the dip stick.
5. brake maintenance light on
6. ABS light on
7. anti-skid warning on
-- I didn't bring my OBD scanner with me so didn't get a chance to read the codes. I'm assuming there's many more codes aside from what I'd get from the OBD.

With the sludge build up and warning lights, should I simply walk away from the vehicle? Poor maintenance probably = early vehicle failure? Thoughts would be great. Thanks

[matthew1]

Read this Xc90 t6 transmissions fail before buying a T6,

[thebull]

Are they giving this car for free? Personally I would pay not more than $800. This car sounds like one big mechanic special and a lot of free time.
Honestly, walk away.
Sorry.

[jcdillin]

Yup, i'd buy it if it were $500 and wanted a project to tinker with. But if your not looking for a money pit i'd run away.

[jblackburn]

Nope nope nope.

[FLXC90]

What are you looking for in this car? How mechanically savvy are you. How broke are you? How broke do you want to be?
If I only knew then what I know now. But...

Are there any maintenance records available? I got lucky, mine had a complete history of dealer and Indie maint until it was traded in.

The ticking time bomb is the transmission. mine died second day I had it, and the warranty company ( named after "the Mother Road") backed out.
That cost me $4k.
Anti-skid light, yaw sensor under the amp under the passenger seat, $500 for a new sensor. Xemodex can rebuild if rebuildable, dunno the cost. result, reduced function of safety systems, basic anti-skid still works, cancels out AWD. Car will run forever that way'
Coolant light, bad reservoir or radiator, common, not really expensive, but a PITA.
Sludge in the motor, can be fixed with seafoam, a couple oil changes, probably some seal reconditioner. Hot, humid weather, short trips, dino oil all lead to sludge.

I've been making lemonade for 3 years this month. This was how I found this website.

If the car can be bought cheap, realistically probably about $2k, and you can do and don't mind work yourself, you can get a safe tank to drive. But if you can find a 2.5t FWD or AWD you might be happier.

[iRenaissanceMan]

Heya! Thanks for the notes. I ended up passing on the T6, though was tempted by another T6 a week later with a blown head gasket. Alas, I passed on that due to the guy wouldn't reduce lower than $2.5k (2005 T6 w/ 170k miles).

However.... I did pick up a 2004 2.5T FWD (I was suprised as I thought they were all AWD). Anyhow, I'm now the proud owner of a 2.5T w/ 140k miles. Got 1 problem I need to fix ASAP - oil leak on left side of car (passenger side), under the timing belt cover. It's leaking probably 1/10th of a quarter ever 200 miles. I'm hoping it's the CAM seals and we'll be done.

I'm 100% new to volvos, but I would say mechanically inclined (average). I do about 90% of all my own car work... even changed the head gasket on my old miata a couple years ago. I've never done transmission or major engine work (like valves or cylinders).

So now here's my plan for the 2004. Please chime in if you've got any suggestions. I'm actually not sure which brands i need to buy. Suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated.

1. Thermostat (flush coolant), Radiator hoses, Timing belt, water pump, CAM seals (intake and exhaust on the hub/gear side of vehicle)
--- Order from ebay (continental belt and pump kit), also, order CAM locking tool from ebay.
2. Serpentine belt
--- ebay - continental
3. PCV/Oil trap/flame box
--- ebay - OES Genuine PCV Oil Trap
--- FCP - intake gasket, short hose
*** Anyone know if I can simply reuse the long ($200) hose? Clean it up somehow? There were rebuild kits on ebay for $65. I could use any advice here on the PCV system. I didn't realize the Volvo PCV was so complicated compared to my normal $2 PCV valve for my toyota, mazdas, etc.
4. Tranny fluid flush/drain/refill/drain/refill method using the approved mobil or volvo trans fluid - sounds like an expensive endeavor!
5. Engine oil, air filter, fuel filter

Any thoughts on that? I plan to do the work myself, but would love some advice. I'm definitely uncertain about the PCV. Do I really need to buy the $350 PCV kit which includes that really long hose? Any way to do the job properly yet save a few bucks? Also, any way to check if there's a clog through the intake for the PCV? I've read that some folks have had to drop their oil pan to check/clean a "hole?"

thanks again!

[Ou2mame]

You should probably drop the pan. I've heard of shops that just won't do a pcv without dropping the pan on high mileage cars. You can do the glove test and see how bad your pcv is. Take a rubber glove and put it on the oil filler and if it blows up, it needs to be done. Use only oem timing belt and water pump. You can use Toyota tranny fluid it's a lot cheaper. You should download Vida there is a lot of information that will be of use to you. On the 04 there are 2 different hoses for the pcv box where it mounts to the engine apparently, so you will have to either buy both or go to the dealer and buy it there. I would only use oem hoses, there have been threads of the cheap uro type brands going bad in under a year even. For the long hose I plan to use silicon hoses and rebuild it. It's cheaper and they can bend easier. I haven't done it yet because mine isn't too bad but it's on the list. I've got a cam cover leak into my 3rd cyl plug hole that's going to get done before that.

The fuel filter on the other hand is very easy lol