Crank, No Start and Coolant Leak Double Whammy

Clipper · Post by **Clipper** » 22 Jan 2016, 00:12

So I have a couple problems I'm trying to work through on my 1995 850 Turbo Wagon.

After some sub zero weather here in Wisconsin I had a crank, no start situation. Checked all the easy things; fluids, I could hear the fuel pump come on, pulled codes (P0172: Fuel Too Rich which has been causing a CEL forever). Long story short I called my Volvo mechanic and he basically confirmed what I thought, “lawn mower syndrome” I trickle charged the battery overnight pulled my fuel soaked spark plugs (#1 looked pretty dirty) cleaned them and poured a cap full of oil into each cylinder. It started up right away with a huge puff of smoke and ran like a champ, idled fine etc. Followed it up with an oil change (mobil 1 synthetic 5W30) for good measure.

A few days later I found some antifreeze on the pavement under the car, I topped off the fluid and figured I would monitor the levels and track it down next week. But after another round of sub zero weather (highs below zero and lows of -15) I had the same crank but no start with more coolant under the car. Pulled the spark plugs which were all really dirty just 7 days after I cleaned them.

I figured I would replace the spark plugs (current ones are good NGK Iridiums and Bosch wires). What else should I be looking for? Should I just find the coolant leak and chalk the no start up to the super cold weather? Or should I not try to start it for fear of doing damage? I’m not a total clutz but I’m no expert so the simpler the better.

Should I be worried about the head gasket? Although there is no overheating, no “chocolate milk” on the dipstick or in the overflow reservoir, there could be some white smoke but that could be water vapor from the cold.

Between all the various Volvo forums and videos online (shout out to Robert DIY) you guys enabled me to do a ton of work on my car I never would have been able to without your advice.

BIG THANKS

Post by **E Showell** » 22 Jan 2016, 08:43

Sounds like a bad ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor). I always change the thermostat as well when I replace an ECT.

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Jan 2016, 08:59

You've done your homework, good job in the LMS. The coolant leak is odd and to me, super disturbing. I would find out what it is. If coolant is leaking out the ECT wires then you've got your gremlin. Anyway I don't think I would drive it without knowing where the coolant is coming from.

From what you have described, head gasket should be just fine.

Post by **tryingbe** » 22 Jan 2016, 10:25

Leak could be from waterpump, hoses, bad clamp, cracked coolant tank, etc... You need to locate the leak and fix it.

tannibanani · Post by **tannibanani** » 22 Jan 2016, 11:54

The no-start problem I can't give any info on. However, I also have a coolant leak on my C70 1999. I'm going to install an engine heater on Tuesday and at the same time try and locate the leak and fix it. I'll get back to you on what I find when I'm under the car.

Clipper · Post by **Clipper** » 22 Jan 2016, 15:04

So the PCV Vacuum hose is definitely cracked and looks like it has been for a while. I figured fixing that will clear the P0172 making the car run rich and the oil under the valve cover.

Now I just need to find the coolant leak. Without putting the car on jack stands I took the splash guard off (there was probably a cup of coolant pooled in it) it looked to me like the coolant was sprayed all around behind the radiator. I didn't see any obvious leaks but I'm going to replace all the hoses after the weekend.

I planning to replace the PCV vacuum line, put in the new spark plugs try to start it up. Should I replace/check anything else beyond the hose? I figured I'd look for the coolant leak with the car running since it hasn't lost any while its been sitting.

Post by **scot850** » 22 Jan 2016, 15:09

First thing as the guys say, is try to identify where if anywhere the leak is coming from. A sheet of cardboard under the car may help to give a clue. Only rider is if you still have a front under-tray under the radiator as it will direct any leaks to its drains. In that case, remove the tray and same suggestion stands.

One of the issues to consider is when the car is that cold, old rubber shrinks, and it could be as simple as a hose clamp needing tightened, but could go as far as a crack in a radiator (again the plastic becomes more brittle with age/low temps). Typically this can happen I have found on the RH side of the radiator near the upper hose where the radiator gets more strain on it when it twists.

Also worth checking are the coolant hoses at the back of the engine coming from the header tank. I always seem to get leaks where the rubber pipe meets the metal pipe. Could also be a crack in the header tank.

Finally, if a water pump is worn, it can leak at low temps, and be a pig to find as when it warms up it 'heals' the leak as the seal and bearing expand.

First things first, try to find a rough area of the underside where the leak appears to come from, and we will try to zero in on the cause.

All considered the water leak I think may be a relatively simple issue compared to the no start. If the car is running that rich, you may have bad O2 sensors/ECT/or leaking injectors. You need to get that figured out before you wreck the engine.

Neil.

Post by **scot850** » 22 Jan 2016, 15:16

Sorry, your e-mail with more details came in while I was writing. With the water appearing to come from that area, it may be the radiator or the hoses. Check up under the top hose mounting, and done the RH side (LH when viewed from the front of the car). Both can crack or leak. Hopefully it is just a hardened upper hose.

Replacing that bend may be do-able as I think you can buy just the rubber portion.

To access this you may have to remove (not disconnect) the power steering pump to give more room, and just lay it to one side. If you are replacing the radiator hoses, it may be worth considering to replace the thermostat and ECT as they are easier to access. Only Volvo ECT for me, but I know some guys say there is an aftermarket brand that can be ok also. Sorry, can't recall which. Just be careful trying to undo the 2 Torx screws for the thermostat when it is so cold!!

Neil.

eddielee · Post by **eddielee** » 23 Jan 2016, 08:32

We didn't see the contents of this PM...

Definitely need to find coolant leak, sucks working in such cold weather.
Common culprits mentioned above, plus depending on where it is leaking, the heater core lines can cause such a thing.
I definitely recommend replacing the Thermostat during winter months when dealing with coolant lines.
The ECT probably is a good idea as well, Shouldn't hurt and worst thing is you know it is new!

Post by **sleddriver** » 23 Jan 2016, 19:02

Recently experienced the cold no-start issue myself. Except down here it's not NEAR as cold as where you are! The ECT was original (now about 17yrs old) and at ~ 50°F, the resistance was only around 550 ohms. Should have been around 3500 Ohms. New ECT fixed it.

I also discovered my T-stat gasket was split, so it was leaking coolant. Bottom of coolant tank had a split...thought it was coming from the lower hose. Fixed that. Still leaking on pass. side though. Removed timing cover and stuck an inspection mirror down there...looks like the bottom of the water pump gasket is leaking when hot. There is no coolant coming from the weep hole. I also have a leak from both upper & lower radiator hoses where they attach to the radiator. The hoses are original, so I'll replace both as well as all others.

Hope this gives you some ideas.