1998 V70GLT 2WD FRONT DRIVE AXLE REPLACEMENT
1998 V70GLT 2WD FRONT DRIVE AXLE REPLACEMENT
I have been researching the replacement of my two front drive axles for a couple of days online and as a result I have purchased new DSS drive axles after weighing all of the reasonable alternatives (yes, I know they are from China, but they cost me so little that they are worth a shot). The problem is that there are somewhat differing instructions and how-to pix on the web, probably because they are not for my precise car. Here's are my questions: (i) on my particular car, which is an automatic if it matters, am I going to have to have a huge prybar or a specialized tool to pry out a tapered ball joint shaft, or am I just going to have to unbolt a couple of steering links (as in the how-to for the 2001 V70 XC); (ii) should I use anti-seize on the threaded shaft that enters the hub when I reassemble, or should I use (yes, I've seen it on the web) "metal glue"? And, if the latter, what IS "metal glue"; (iii) is there some sort of clip to remove on either of the shafts at the transmission, or do they both just slide out? If there is a clip to remove, how do I do it, do I need a special tool? (iv) should I use a torque wrench to reassemble, and if so, what are the relevant torque settings on whatever it is that I have to torque? and finally (iv) do I need to buy the cv shaft puller offered by ipdusa ($29) to get the splines out of the hubs, or are they unlikely to be a problem? Thanks in advance -- I'll take pictures of the job and send them in if anyone wants to see this work.
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pfeener
- Posts: 634
- Joined: 19 January 2006
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OK here ya go:
1. The ball joint stub is not tapered. Remove the bolt holding the ball joint in place and with any luck you can slide it out. PB Blaster is always a help.
2. Do not use metal glue. Antisieze or grease is fine.
3. The right side axle will slide right out when you remove the imtermediate bearing housing bolts. The left side is held in place by a cir clip in the transaxle. You need to overcome the force of the clip and the axle will pop right out. Use a couple of 90 degree pry bars (like you'd pull nails with) on each side of the joint to pop it out.
4. This will give you the info you need.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
5. (or 4 in your post) Yes you will most definetly need an axle puller. (unless the axles have been out previously) You can get a loaner one from Autozone for free. It may or may not do the job. This is what you may need if it's really cemented in there good. Volvo puts metal glue on them from the factory.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAVY-DU ... 8682QQrdZ1
1. The ball joint stub is not tapered. Remove the bolt holding the ball joint in place and with any luck you can slide it out. PB Blaster is always a help.
2. Do not use metal glue. Antisieze or grease is fine.
3. The right side axle will slide right out when you remove the imtermediate bearing housing bolts. The left side is held in place by a cir clip in the transaxle. You need to overcome the force of the clip and the axle will pop right out. Use a couple of 90 degree pry bars (like you'd pull nails with) on each side of the joint to pop it out.
4. This will give you the info you need.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
5. (or 4 in your post) Yes you will most definetly need an axle puller. (unless the axles have been out previously) You can get a loaner one from Autozone for free. It may or may not do the job. This is what you may need if it's really cemented in there good. Volvo puts metal glue on them from the factory.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAVY-DU ... 8682QQrdZ1
Thanks, you are [i]the greatest[/i]! Now I know just what to expect and what additional tools to acquire before I attempt it. I'll see if I can record the experience in a helpful way, including any problems I run into that are unexpected.
I really appreciate your tying up the loose ends for me so clearly and succinctly. Now if I can just rumble home on the old axles before they seize and leave me stranded on the toll road (or worse)!
Cheers,
Ron
I really appreciate your tying up the loose ends for me so clearly and succinctly. Now if I can just rumble home on the old axles before they seize and leave me stranded on the toll road (or worse)!
Cheers,
Ron
Thanks. I'm conscious of the fact that Raxles is probably better. I shopped them carefully as part of my research and they look great. But they would have cost nearly twice as much (even before shipping charges), and considering that the vehicle is essentially worthless on the open market right now (see below), it's not justified IMHO.
The driver's side cost only $86, and the passenger side $111 at retail, and they are new rather than remanufactured, albeit new from China.
The DSS axles are sold by FCP Groton, a fairly reputable outfit, and I've seen mixed reviews online, some end users saying they "came apart in my hands" and others saying they installed them and are using them without incident and are satisfied.
Olympus Parts, a leading local store here in the NoVA area, has a close relationship with DSS, and stands behind the part. My understanding is that DSS axles had some initial glitches that have been addressed, and are now very reliable. To that end, the part rep at Olympus promises to replace the parts if they go bad, and DSS has a decent warranty on its end as well.
One thing: always good to open the box when buying something like this. The driver's side axle didn't include the hub nut in my particular box, but we caught it at the store and the parts rep cannibalized another to get me the nut.
I promise to follow up on the Forum with my experience. If it turns out that the DSS axles are satisfactory, they certainly are a good deal in comparison with GKNs, Lobros, Raxles, etc. Of course, there may be a question of whether they last as long -- but the vehicle I have already has 118k on it, and is now smoking at startup (don't know why, either turbo/rings/valve stem seals/PCV clogs but in any event likely to be worth more than the value of car to repair), so I can't justify pouring much money into it at this point. I'm just trying to limp up to the point of the next emissions inspection in August of this year, when the car may end up as a reject. If by some miracle I manage to pass the emissions test, I'll drive the thing indefinitely, because it's a fantastic car otherwise.
The driver's side cost only $86, and the passenger side $111 at retail, and they are new rather than remanufactured, albeit new from China.
The DSS axles are sold by FCP Groton, a fairly reputable outfit, and I've seen mixed reviews online, some end users saying they "came apart in my hands" and others saying they installed them and are using them without incident and are satisfied.
Olympus Parts, a leading local store here in the NoVA area, has a close relationship with DSS, and stands behind the part. My understanding is that DSS axles had some initial glitches that have been addressed, and are now very reliable. To that end, the part rep at Olympus promises to replace the parts if they go bad, and DSS has a decent warranty on its end as well.
One thing: always good to open the box when buying something like this. The driver's side axle didn't include the hub nut in my particular box, but we caught it at the store and the parts rep cannibalized another to get me the nut.
I promise to follow up on the Forum with my experience. If it turns out that the DSS axles are satisfactory, they certainly are a good deal in comparison with GKNs, Lobros, Raxles, etc. Of course, there may be a question of whether they last as long -- but the vehicle I have already has 118k on it, and is now smoking at startup (don't know why, either turbo/rings/valve stem seals/PCV clogs but in any event likely to be worth more than the value of car to repair), so I can't justify pouring much money into it at this point. I'm just trying to limp up to the point of the next emissions inspection in August of this year, when the car may end up as a reject. If by some miracle I manage to pass the emissions test, I'll drive the thing indefinitely, because it's a fantastic car otherwise.
Follow up on axle installation.
OK, I managed to install the driver's side (short) axle, but it took me forever. The existing pictorial on the forum for removing the axle on a 1998 70 series http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html was pretty accurate, and I don't think I can do better, especially since my work was such a mess, but I do have the following comments to add to the existing content on the forum:
1. This job took A LOT longer than anticipated.
2. First, getting the axle nuts off was nearly impossible. They were rusted on, and refused to budge. After repeated soakings with PB blaster, and a lot of struggling, using a 1/2" breaker bar and a 48" length of 1" galvanized pipe as a "cheater bar", I managed to break only one of the two nuts loose. The second one (passenger side) is still resisting. I've broken one steel 1/2" breaker bar on it already, and am going for a second try when I have time.
3. Second, you really need to have a substantial pry bar, to pull the ball joint out of the pinch bolt. And, the galvanized pipe doesn't work so well, because it is too large to fit into where you have to pry. So, before you try this, get a LONG, thin, steel pry bar that can fit in the narrow pry spaces but provide enough leverage to separate the ball joint.
4. Third, don't listen to anyone telling you that you are just going to pull the splined shaft out of the hub. It's not happening. You need to have a puller. Luckily, Advanced Auto Parts has a loaner set that provided me much more than I needed. The essence of the axle puller is that it bolts to the front of the rotor using the stud bolts from the wheels, and then there is a threaded hole that is positioned over the end of the axle shaft. A very heavy threaded bolt fits into that threaded hole, and when you torque down the bolt, it pushes the splined axle shaft out of the hub. Without a puller on my car it would have just been impossible. IPDUSA sells a workable one for about $30 plus shipping but I think you can probably find one in your local auto parts store. Don't start this job without it.
5. Fourth, this stuff in the forum about "popping" the driver's side shaft out of the transmission with a screwdriver is science fiction as far as I can see. That sucker was really stuck in there because of the clip. And it is very difficult to find the right position for prying it out. This took a while, and was very clumsy. Maybe if you have a lift and you are looking straight up at it it is easy, but for those of us using axle stands and predominantly working from the side rather than putting our entire torso underneath the front of the car, it is not easy, and in fact was a real struggle. It did ultimately give in, however.
6. The stuff I read didn't warn me of what probably should have been obvious: if you pull out the driveshaft, you're likely to get some ATF on the ground. So, I counsel you to put an empty bucket under the point where the driveshaft is being pulled out of the transmission. It will save you a sloppy mess. I lost probably a quart of ATF, which brings me to my next warning: have a quart of ATF handy, AND some means of pouring it into the little dipstick shaft -- not easy to do by conventional means. Best would be a funnel with a tube on the end -- not something I have in my garage so I stole one of those large plastic straws from a sports cup, drilled a hole in the top of the ATF bottle to fit the straw, and used that to refill the ATF. (When you are checking ATF levels, you have to remember to follow the instructions in the V70 manual -- get the car level, to operating temperature, work through the gears a couple of times, and then check. Otherwise it might seem that you have plenty of ATF, when you really don't.)
7. OK, so you have the driveshaft loose on both ends. It doesn't mean that it is easy to actually remove it. It was sort of a struggle, but I ultimately managed to slip it out. There is a divergence of opinion in the materials on the forum about whether or not to loosen/detach some of the suspension/steering stuff before removing the axle. My vote is, when in doubt, loose/detach more rather than less. Getting the old axle out and the new axle in was a chore -- there's a lot in the way and not much room to work.
8. Now comes the next problem -- how do you get the end of the axle with the clip on it to "pop" back into the transmission? It is almost impossible to get any purchase on the thing because of the narrow spaces, and the lack of any good places to pry against. And, it did not want to go in by itself. I ultimately stopped trying to shove or pry it in, and just reassembled the suspension (ball joint/caliper) without shoving it in. I left the axle nut off, and used the puller to press the axle into the transmission the same way I pressed the axle out of the splined hub. The difference here was that the hub couldn't move because it was all reassembled to the suspension. I don't know if that was kosher to do, but it was all I could think of, and it did ultimately work -- but there was no real "snap" when the clip seated. It's just that there was no more gap between the axle fitting and the transmission, and no leaking ATF when it was done.
9. Which brings me to the ball joint reinsertion into the pinch assembly (something I did before pressing the axle into the transmission in the last step). It didn't want to go. So I put the floor jack under it and tried to press it in from below. Still no go. As it turns out, the secret is that the ball joint has to be oriented perfectly under the pinch assembly, or apparently no force on earth will press it in. However, once you jockey around a little and get it exactly right (it can't go in at an angle), it really doesn't take that much force to get it in place.
10. After that, reassembly of everything else was simple. The Volvo instructions for 850 hubs say to torque it to 80 ft lbs "plus 120 degrees". I have no idea what that means -- after hitting 80 ft pounds on my torque wrench, I pushed it forward some distance, but then that was it, it just wouldn't go any further without potentially breaking the 1/2" torque wrench. If it isn't tight enough now, I'm not sure what else to do.
11. Here's another thing that should probably be obvious but I did not see much about it on the forum: it seems likely that as a result of the new axle installation, the front wheel alignment is out of whack. So that's something else that might have to be figured into the big picture. If I ever manage to get that @#$%!!! axle bolt off the passenger side and install the new axle on that side, I plan to take the car to get it aligned.
OK, I'm exhausted, covered with grease, I've burned about a half a day of effort destroyed one breaker bar and the garage is a mess. Was it worth it? Hell, yes! It would have cost me somewhere between $800 - $1400 to have someone else do this, and it's going to cost me something in the neighborhood of $200 (plus an alignment, I think) all inclusive. Plus I'm richer for the experience of tackling a job I've never done before, and learning something new.
But be forewarned if you have not done this. It's easy in principle, and if you have a lift, it is probably not too bad. But you have to have the right tools, and there are parts of this that do not want to cooperate and take a degree of struggle. So make sure you are prepared, and allow some extra time (it took me like 6 hours, maybe I'm dense, but I kept running into things that did not want to cooperate). I'll follow up with anything new of interest that arises from my passenger side installation. I know that I will probably have to crawl underneath to disassemble the carrier bearing, but otherwise I anticipate that this next one will be a lot easier (especially since I understand that the axle does not have a clip where it joins the transmission, and should slide out easily (famous last words).
OK, I managed to install the driver's side (short) axle, but it took me forever. The existing pictorial on the forum for removing the axle on a 1998 70 series http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html was pretty accurate, and I don't think I can do better, especially since my work was such a mess, but I do have the following comments to add to the existing content on the forum:
1. This job took A LOT longer than anticipated.
2. First, getting the axle nuts off was nearly impossible. They were rusted on, and refused to budge. After repeated soakings with PB blaster, and a lot of struggling, using a 1/2" breaker bar and a 48" length of 1" galvanized pipe as a "cheater bar", I managed to break only one of the two nuts loose. The second one (passenger side) is still resisting. I've broken one steel 1/2" breaker bar on it already, and am going for a second try when I have time.
3. Second, you really need to have a substantial pry bar, to pull the ball joint out of the pinch bolt. And, the galvanized pipe doesn't work so well, because it is too large to fit into where you have to pry. So, before you try this, get a LONG, thin, steel pry bar that can fit in the narrow pry spaces but provide enough leverage to separate the ball joint.
4. Third, don't listen to anyone telling you that you are just going to pull the splined shaft out of the hub. It's not happening. You need to have a puller. Luckily, Advanced Auto Parts has a loaner set that provided me much more than I needed. The essence of the axle puller is that it bolts to the front of the rotor using the stud bolts from the wheels, and then there is a threaded hole that is positioned over the end of the axle shaft. A very heavy threaded bolt fits into that threaded hole, and when you torque down the bolt, it pushes the splined axle shaft out of the hub. Without a puller on my car it would have just been impossible. IPDUSA sells a workable one for about $30 plus shipping but I think you can probably find one in your local auto parts store. Don't start this job without it.
5. Fourth, this stuff in the forum about "popping" the driver's side shaft out of the transmission with a screwdriver is science fiction as far as I can see. That sucker was really stuck in there because of the clip. And it is very difficult to find the right position for prying it out. This took a while, and was very clumsy. Maybe if you have a lift and you are looking straight up at it it is easy, but for those of us using axle stands and predominantly working from the side rather than putting our entire torso underneath the front of the car, it is not easy, and in fact was a real struggle. It did ultimately give in, however.
6. The stuff I read didn't warn me of what probably should have been obvious: if you pull out the driveshaft, you're likely to get some ATF on the ground. So, I counsel you to put an empty bucket under the point where the driveshaft is being pulled out of the transmission. It will save you a sloppy mess. I lost probably a quart of ATF, which brings me to my next warning: have a quart of ATF handy, AND some means of pouring it into the little dipstick shaft -- not easy to do by conventional means. Best would be a funnel with a tube on the end -- not something I have in my garage so I stole one of those large plastic straws from a sports cup, drilled a hole in the top of the ATF bottle to fit the straw, and used that to refill the ATF. (When you are checking ATF levels, you have to remember to follow the instructions in the V70 manual -- get the car level, to operating temperature, work through the gears a couple of times, and then check. Otherwise it might seem that you have plenty of ATF, when you really don't.)
7. OK, so you have the driveshaft loose on both ends. It doesn't mean that it is easy to actually remove it. It was sort of a struggle, but I ultimately managed to slip it out. There is a divergence of opinion in the materials on the forum about whether or not to loosen/detach some of the suspension/steering stuff before removing the axle. My vote is, when in doubt, loose/detach more rather than less. Getting the old axle out and the new axle in was a chore -- there's a lot in the way and not much room to work.
8. Now comes the next problem -- how do you get the end of the axle with the clip on it to "pop" back into the transmission? It is almost impossible to get any purchase on the thing because of the narrow spaces, and the lack of any good places to pry against. And, it did not want to go in by itself. I ultimately stopped trying to shove or pry it in, and just reassembled the suspension (ball joint/caliper) without shoving it in. I left the axle nut off, and used the puller to press the axle into the transmission the same way I pressed the axle out of the splined hub. The difference here was that the hub couldn't move because it was all reassembled to the suspension. I don't know if that was kosher to do, but it was all I could think of, and it did ultimately work -- but there was no real "snap" when the clip seated. It's just that there was no more gap between the axle fitting and the transmission, and no leaking ATF when it was done.
9. Which brings me to the ball joint reinsertion into the pinch assembly (something I did before pressing the axle into the transmission in the last step). It didn't want to go. So I put the floor jack under it and tried to press it in from below. Still no go. As it turns out, the secret is that the ball joint has to be oriented perfectly under the pinch assembly, or apparently no force on earth will press it in. However, once you jockey around a little and get it exactly right (it can't go in at an angle), it really doesn't take that much force to get it in place.
10. After that, reassembly of everything else was simple. The Volvo instructions for 850 hubs say to torque it to 80 ft lbs "plus 120 degrees". I have no idea what that means -- after hitting 80 ft pounds on my torque wrench, I pushed it forward some distance, but then that was it, it just wouldn't go any further without potentially breaking the 1/2" torque wrench. If it isn't tight enough now, I'm not sure what else to do.
11. Here's another thing that should probably be obvious but I did not see much about it on the forum: it seems likely that as a result of the new axle installation, the front wheel alignment is out of whack. So that's something else that might have to be figured into the big picture. If I ever manage to get that @#$%!!! axle bolt off the passenger side and install the new axle on that side, I plan to take the car to get it aligned.
OK, I'm exhausted, covered with grease, I've burned about a half a day of effort destroyed one breaker bar and the garage is a mess. Was it worth it? Hell, yes! It would have cost me somewhere between $800 - $1400 to have someone else do this, and it's going to cost me something in the neighborhood of $200 (plus an alignment, I think) all inclusive. Plus I'm richer for the experience of tackling a job I've never done before, and learning something new.
But be forewarned if you have not done this. It's easy in principle, and if you have a lift, it is probably not too bad. But you have to have the right tools, and there are parts of this that do not want to cooperate and take a degree of struggle. So make sure you are prepared, and allow some extra time (it took me like 6 hours, maybe I'm dense, but I kept running into things that did not want to cooperate). I'll follow up with anything new of interest that arises from my passenger side installation. I know that I will probably have to crawl underneath to disassemble the carrier bearing, but otherwise I anticipate that this next one will be a lot easier (especially since I understand that the axle does not have a clip where it joins the transmission, and should slide out easily (famous last words).
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pfeener
- Posts: 634
- Joined: 19 January 2006
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- Location: Massachusetts
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2. Air tools are great
3. it's much easier if you loosen the two bolts holding the control arm to the subframe. The control arm will drop down nice and easy when the bolts are loose. It's a lot easier to put back in as well. If you do it this way you need to jack up the control arm to get it into ot's normal position before you retighten it.
4. Yep. I told you that.
5. I told you to use the 90 degree pry bars. One on each side.
6. Next time remove the transmission drain plug. You'll get about 4 quarts. Makes it a lot less messy. Refill with Dextron III.
8. It should pop right back in. It's more of a feel thing. It has to be lined up perfectly straight with the splines aligned on the axle. The axle you put in could have been out of spec as well. If it happens again, try the old axle and see if it slides right in.
10. it means tighten to 80 ft/lbs and then another 1/3 of a turn. (360 degrees in a complete circle; 120 degrees is 1/3 of a circle)
11. Unless you loosened the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. You didn't change anything concerning the alignment.
3. it's much easier if you loosen the two bolts holding the control arm to the subframe. The control arm will drop down nice and easy when the bolts are loose. It's a lot easier to put back in as well. If you do it this way you need to jack up the control arm to get it into ot's normal position before you retighten it.
4. Yep. I told you that.
5. I told you to use the 90 degree pry bars. One on each side.
6. Next time remove the transmission drain plug. You'll get about 4 quarts. Makes it a lot less messy. Refill with Dextron III.
8. It should pop right back in. It's more of a feel thing. It has to be lined up perfectly straight with the splines aligned on the axle. The axle you put in could have been out of spec as well. If it happens again, try the old axle and see if it slides right in.
10. it means tighten to 80 ft/lbs and then another 1/3 of a turn. (360 degrees in a complete circle; 120 degrees is 1/3 of a circle)
11. Unless you loosened the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. You didn't change anything concerning the alignment.
Thanks!
I looked into the air tool thing. Minimum $100 for a small compressor, $50-100 for a 1/2 ratchet gun; hose always separate, something like $20, then you have to buy the correct socket for the gun, perhaps another $20 or so. And, even if you buy all of this, which admittedly would be nice to have for other projects, it's not clear to me that this minimum set of air tools would break the axle nut loose. There are lots of vagaries: how many psi do you need? how many gallons of air? I would suppose that shops have much heavier duty stuff that costs hundreds or thousands more. I ultimately gave up the air tool thing not only because of the expense but because I felt I didn't have enough information to make good decisions about what exactly I would need.
As for the 90 degree pry bars, it makes a really big difference what size they are. What size 90 degree bars are you talking about here? If they are just a few inches too big they won't fit in this small space. Tough to eyeball that at Home Depot if you're not sure what you're looking for.
Funny that no one talked about draining the ATF first before doing this job in any of the work descriptions in the forum. I suppose it was because it was obvious to everyone (except me), but it does make sense, to avoid mess.
Thanks for all your help. Lacking any better strategy, I'm going to find another 1/2" breaker bar (this time a lifetime guaranteed one) to try to loosen the passenger side nut. I'll let the forum know if I encounter any unusual issues with the other side. I'm not frankly looking forward to getting underneath the car to take the carrier bearing off.
I looked into the air tool thing. Minimum $100 for a small compressor, $50-100 for a 1/2 ratchet gun; hose always separate, something like $20, then you have to buy the correct socket for the gun, perhaps another $20 or so. And, even if you buy all of this, which admittedly would be nice to have for other projects, it's not clear to me that this minimum set of air tools would break the axle nut loose. There are lots of vagaries: how many psi do you need? how many gallons of air? I would suppose that shops have much heavier duty stuff that costs hundreds or thousands more. I ultimately gave up the air tool thing not only because of the expense but because I felt I didn't have enough information to make good decisions about what exactly I would need.
As for the 90 degree pry bars, it makes a really big difference what size they are. What size 90 degree bars are you talking about here? If they are just a few inches too big they won't fit in this small space. Tough to eyeball that at Home Depot if you're not sure what you're looking for.
Funny that no one talked about draining the ATF first before doing this job in any of the work descriptions in the forum. I suppose it was because it was obvious to everyone (except me), but it does make sense, to avoid mess.
Thanks for all your help. Lacking any better strategy, I'm going to find another 1/2" breaker bar (this time a lifetime guaranteed one) to try to loosen the passenger side nut. I'll let the forum know if I encounter any unusual issues with the other side. I'm not frankly looking forward to getting underneath the car to take the carrier bearing off.
I broke two 2.5 foot breaker bar trying to break the axle nut on the right (passenger)side. I even sprayed it down with PB blaster. I had to borrow a friends air compressor and gun, it broke the nut loose in about 5 seconds.
If possible drive to a hobby shop or auto shop nearby and have them break it loose for you and tighten it enough just to make it home. Wallah!
If you plan on breaking more breaker bars look for Harbor Freight Tools
I hope it works out for you.
Tri
If possible drive to a hobby shop or auto shop nearby and have them break it loose for you and tighten it enough just to make it home. Wallah!
If you plan on breaking more breaker bars look for Harbor Freight Tools
I hope it works out for you.
Tri
98 S70 T5 225600 Miles as of January 17, 2009
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pfeener
- Posts: 634
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Unless you get some serious air tools, you won't be able to break it loose. The lower end stuff just won't get it done. A couple other alternatives. Swing by a tire shop and ask them to loosen it for you with their air gun or if you're going to get another breaker bar I would go for a 3/4 inch one.
I usually use the cheapo pry bars that are fashioned out of flat stock.
http://shopping.msn.com/prices/shp/?itemId=20719406
I usually use the cheapo pry bars that are fashioned out of flat stock.
http://shopping.msn.com/prices/shp/?itemId=20719406
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