1996 850R Delta link bushing replacement

Bachman · Post by **Bachman** » 06 May 2015, 13:57

Hello,

I just finished replacing the delta link bushings on my 850R. The job went really well! 2 tools seem to have made all the difference. The Volvo delta link removal tool (8885497) and a U joint tool.

The u-joint tool is awesome for getting the pressed in bolt that holds the bushing into the arm out. Just loosen the nut until the top of the nut is flush with the end of the bolt, then use the u-joint tool to press the bolt out.

The Volvo delta link removal tool works! Not heat, no mess, no drama! Once I got the tool on correctly, it's a bit fiddly, I tightened the tool with an impact gun till it was under pressure. Smacked the arm with a hammer and the bushing popped out! Both sides! Total work time about 3 hrs...

It took me longer to disassemble and reassemble everything than it did to change out the bushings!!
Hope this helps somebody thinking about doing this.

Sean

Post by **kahl** » 06 May 2015, 14:45

Glad the tool worked out!!

Bachman · Post by **Bachman** » 06 May 2015, 14:56

Worked great!

I will be shipping it back tomorrow.

Post by **E Showell** » 02 Feb 2016, 20:05

I should be shipping the tool back this weekend. Did both links with no drama. The secret was copious heating with a propane torch. In fact, playing the torch about two inches back from the edge of the arm where the rubber presses in helps loosen the link spectacularly well. Heat the arm and the rubber bushing itself until no more rubber oozes out, scraping the oozing rubber as you go and removal becomes a significantly easier job than a PCV service -- provided you use the special tool. I don't see how anyone could accomplish this in any kind of reasonable amount of time without the tool.

Also, I used the tool to press in the new bushing. I lubed the rubber bushing and the inside of the delta arm with glycerin (happened to have on hand, would have used oil or grease but I believe both degrade rubber and I'm pretty sure glycerin doesn't). I then fit the link as well as possible attempting to line everything up perfectly. I tried to whack the link in with a 5 lb. hammer, but that didn't go so well since it was quite difficult to keep the alignment. Ultimately, I ended up using a wooden block on the edge of the rubber bushing, tapping first on one side, then the other, to seat the rubber bushing. Crank the tool a bit, tap the block on one side, tap the block on the other side, crank the tool, a bit more. . . lather, rinse, repeat.

Post by **RussB** » 02 Feb 2016, 21:01

I had lots of drama when I swapped the delta link bushings in my '96. All those years of road salt welded the two parts together. Heat was my friend, along with "The Tool"

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 03 Feb 2016, 18:24

So much better than the 'old' way, I am impressed with the tool. I am waiting for spring to do both of the bushings on my 1995T. The rattles are really bugging me.

Thanks for the knowledge.

Post by **j-dawg** » 03 Feb 2016, 20:39

E Showell wrote:I lubed the rubber bushing and the inside of the delta arm with glycerin (happened to have on hand, would have used oil or grease but I believe both degrade rubber and I'm pretty sure glycerin doesn't).

Silicone grease is my preferred rubber lube. Buy a $8 tube of Sil-Glyde next time you're doing your brakes and it'll last for years.

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Feb 2016, 22:22

E Showell wrote: ... Did both links with no drama. ...

Just trying to keep up with how people are doing these: which make did you go with for the parts?

Post by **E Showell** » 04 Feb 2016, 04:07

The FCP cheapies. I think ProParts Sweden, but couldn't be sure without checking the package.

Post by **rspi** » 04 Feb 2016, 08:54