V70 Test Drive - What do I do!?

LivC · Post by **LivC** » 06 Feb 2016, 16:57

Hi everyone. I'm test driving a V70 tomorrow and have never set foot in a Volvo. I am a die hard Toyota lover, but we have found a (potentially) great deal on a 98 from a friend's family member. I don't know what model the car is but I'll find out tomorrow. It has 200,000 on it, no service records, and was "previously owned by an elderly couple". I know, I know. I'll get the details tomorrow.

Are there any major and obvious things to look for that are specific to Volvos? I've test driven, inspected and purchased my fair share of older cars, but all Toyotas, so this is new for me. I've read lots of threads but couldn't find any answering my specific question. Any help is greatly appreciated, and I'll write back tomorrow with more details.

Thanks in advance! Ready, go!

Post by **abscate** » 06 Feb 2016, 17:29

Short version...you need to be a decent mechanic to drive an old Volvo as it's hard to find independent mechanics who know these cars well. You also don't get the great scope of quality aftermarket parts you get with more popular brands.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 06 Feb 2016, 21:17

Do a YouTube search on Robert DIY Volvo pre-purchase inspection. Hands-down the most practical and beneficial pre-purchase advice I've ever heard for buying a car. Good news for you is that Roberts advice is Volvo specific

Post by **pkc303** » 06 Feb 2016, 21:22

Yep, Robert will steer you in the right direction. …...And, the previous poster is correct, you either need to be mechanical, or the car is just going to be expensive to own.

Post by **taxi** » 07 Feb 2016, 02:12

Hi!
I thought it is best to mention some simple check points:

Look at the car in dry weather, the underside of the engine will tell you if there are any leaks. Some leaks can be very expensive, search for "RMS", rear main seal.

Does the car drive ok? Noise from engine or transmission?

Check that all warning lights actually lights up when you turn on ignition, and goes off when starting.

Good luck!

Post by **tryingbe** » 07 Feb 2016, 04:41

It'll need a lot of work. Suspension will needs to be gone thru, engine mounts will need to be change, timing belt/waterpump will need to be change, etc.

Post by **cn90** » 07 Feb 2016, 08:56

I am a DIYer and I can tell you this: I won't buy a car at 200K miles, simply b/c there are so many issues at that mileage, the cost adds up very quickly even for a seasoned DIYer. Not to mention time lost fixing a host of issues.

Now if the car was maintained to a T by an enthusiast, then it is another story.

Or if the car is given to me for free, then I may consider putting money/effort in it.
Otherwise at 200K, it is a no for me.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Feb 2016, 09:03

200k on an Oregon car, IF maintained (IF), is no big deal at all. Let us now what you see and your impressions after driving it.

But do be prepared for a steady trickle of maintenance, as others have indicated. I own old Toyotas and old Volvos, that's it, and the Toyotas require almost zero maintenance by comparison. The Volvos are just much more pleasant to drive.

kippster41493 · Post by **kippster41493** » 08 Feb 2016, 13:49

I know it's a couple days after the post. But if you've driven it and are thinking about what you may experienced. The valve ticking is normal for the first few minutes. If it persists it can be "fixed" with oil change and lucas oil additive, to properly fix it, agreeing with everyone else you would need to be mechanically inclined/ willing to learn. Not hard, just time consuming to replace seals/O-rings. The throttle is supposed to be "heavy" compared to other cars, especially Toyotas. Normal things that go out (with out knowing specific vehicle) motor mounts - again not hard to do, but a lot cheaper to do yourself, strut mounts, if it's turbo'd the pipes will need to be cleaned out with that many miles, PCV hose will need to be replaced most likely (or the whole system can be cleaned/ replaced what ever you're willing to do/ pay for anyway) if it has heated seats, if something small and heavy enough, or someone kneeled on the chair at some point, the wires for the thermostat have most likely been pulled off. This is in no way to deter you from the purchase, just a heads up. If vehicle runs well, they are great fun, good on gas, and just look awesome. After I bought my V70 (98 GLT) I fell in love with these cars. Not a whole lot went wrong that car, my 850 I'm currently driving on the other hand has a lot more "common things" that go wrong, but worth the fix

If you have had it beat into your head "Volvo's are hard and expensive to work on." There are plenty of people on here that can lead you to websites they go to for cheap but reliable OEM/ Volvo parts. The work isn't really much different than most vehicles, there is just a lot more going on the engine bay especially the turbo models than in any Toyota I've ever seen, so it LOOKS worse, but really isn't.

Added tip, if you are willing to learn/ already mechanically inclined but unsure about specific fixes, Roberts DIY on youtube is really good. Very knowledgeable, shows you exactly what needs to be done, including the proper tools, and even is able to get his camera in tight areas to show "hidden" bolts or hoses. Shows just about everything there is to replace parts on a Volvo.

Post by **benpineapple** » 08 Feb 2016, 14:07

Buying at 200K is a gamble. Car can test drive fine, and a lot of things can seem fine, but depending on its past maintenance (which you said there are no records for), issues can come up out of nowhere. Make sure you check around on the passenger side under the hood for some sort of a sticker saying when the timing belt was done.

Here is Robert's video everyone is talking about: