Both oil and filter change at 8-9 k, with full synthetic, once a year.
Caveat that the engine runs well and is not sludged nor otherwise filthy inside.
Incidentally "xxx% of engine wear occurs on startup" ...internet myth. Try to find good science on this. You can actually run a lubed engine at idle with no oil pressure for quite a long time, the key being no load. May have been true on choked cars but I doubt anyone did real science on This back then
Filters rarely get overwhelmed on fuel injected injections because fuel metering is so precise ...there is very little rich running in modern FIJ engines.
Also remember the vast majority of junk in your filter over 25 microns size, doesn't hurt you engine as it is bigger than the clearances. The small stuff like wise is more like likely to just flow through. The critical filtration range is in between.
Turbo cars have piston oil jets keeping the cylinders nice and oily too
Oil changes are oversold by the chains by fear factor, it's a key part of their margin to convince everyone they are in severe service and should change every 3k. Few really are.
By the way the Volvo schedule between 1998 and 1999 changed from (1998) 5000 turbo, 10000 NA to (1999) 7500 for both normal service.
98 V70 NA Synthetic oil change interval
- abscate
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Re: 98 V70 NA Synthetic oil change interval
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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- rspi
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I really appreciate this when I purchase a car.abscate wrote: Oil changes are oversold by the chains by fear factor, it's a key part of their margin to convince everyone they are in severe service and should change every 3k. Few really are.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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precopster
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My 2000 V70 na now has 338,000kms and though getting extremely tired in the trim and interior plastics side, (driver's seat is a cracked mess and luggage boards are ripped up by dragging heavy printers over them) I still value the engine and transmission as though they're on a new car. I bought it at 255K kilometres for roughly AUD$1,000 and have outlayed more than $3,500 in parts and maintenance over 4 years of hard driving with mostly inner suburban traffic and some highway use. I still replace synthetic oil every 8-10 thou kays. It burns about 2 litres every oil change however it gets topped up with fresh oil and is the most frugal car I've driven by far. It's now probably only worth $500 due to various scrapes and dings on bumpers and body, however the cost of replacing it with a reliable and frugal replacement is far greater than that I'm certain.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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benpineapple
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I would disagree, only because its a blanket statement and I don't know the specifics. I just have a hard time giving up on a car haha. I bought my V70 at 160K, it was severely neglected. No driveshaft, turbo non-functional, cracked headlights, leaking seals, trashed PCV, A/C non-functional. I could go on.98v70dad wrote:There is no point in doing the best thing when it's way too late for that.
Anyways...That was 2 years and 50K miles ago, and the car is running phenomenal, no real issues whatsoever. All those things mentioned above have been resolved.
The day I bought the V70 I did an oil change. Always, always, always Castrol 5W-30 full-synthetic high mileage oil; the stuff is printed as being rated for 15,000 miles. I change the oil and the filter every 7,500, and the oil has plenty of gold color left to it with no tangible grit to it every time I change it. Coincidentally, the OEM oil fill cap that I bought from the dealership has a Castrol recommendation printed right on it haha.
2006 V50 T5 [190,xxxM]
2013 XC90 FWD [80,xxxM]
2001 V70 X/C AWD [sold at 120xxxM],1998 V70 AWD [RIP at 249,255M], 1990 240 [SOLD at 220xxxM]
2013 XC90 FWD [80,xxxM]
2001 V70 X/C AWD [sold at 120xxxM],1998 V70 AWD [RIP at 249,255M], 1990 240 [SOLD at 220xxxM]
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mecheng
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This I agree with. I had used a Orange Death Can (Fram) and both of my Volvos would tick upon start up for up to 3 seconds sometimes. I switched to Mahle and complete silence.misha wrote:98v70dad....
The point is.....
Why you bother to keep your car in perfect working condition without trouble codes and similiar things when you don't pay attention to a VITAL thing....the engine.?!
Good oil filter is important just like as a good engine oil.One without another,just don't work.
I will never use a Fram filter again in my life, and its has the anti drain back valve.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
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98v70dad
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This is my last comment on this thread. All it takes is one person to make a comment that has nothing to do with the original post to turn most of the remaining comments into unrelated and useless information. I would encourage people to read and respond to the original question in a post rather than comment on the most recent comments especially if they are (for whatever reason) completely off base and unrelated.
For the record, I have religiously changed the oil on my car every 4000 miles for the entire time I've owned it. I've used Purolator filters almost exclusively which are easily obtainable locally, excellent quality and very reasonably priced at Walmart (until recently) for about $3.75. Mann filters have not been easily available in Atlanta at the auto parts stores, although I can order them at a fairly reasonable price online I don't see the need for that. I would never put one of those cheap Fram glued together filters on any car I own AND I never have.
That said, when you can buy an adequate product to do the job for $3.75 then buy the adequate product. I am a engineer and I have worked in the profession of maintaining machines that cost hundreds of millions of dollars for decades. You can always buy the very best and spend your money to get that and you will be wasting some of your money every single time. Finding the value takes some know how and sense. Anybody can follow the herd and always buy the best.
For those of you who haven't thought about it, running a cheap piece of crap oil filter for a 10,000 mile change interval on synthetic oil may not be in your best interest. That was the intent of my original post. I was looking for how people balance the long synthetic change interval against using a filter originally intended to go for far fewer miles. Very few people got it in spite of my efforts to redirect people back to the original question.
For the record, I have religiously changed the oil on my car every 4000 miles for the entire time I've owned it. I've used Purolator filters almost exclusively which are easily obtainable locally, excellent quality and very reasonably priced at Walmart (until recently) for about $3.75. Mann filters have not been easily available in Atlanta at the auto parts stores, although I can order them at a fairly reasonable price online I don't see the need for that. I would never put one of those cheap Fram glued together filters on any car I own AND I never have.
That said, when you can buy an adequate product to do the job for $3.75 then buy the adequate product. I am a engineer and I have worked in the profession of maintaining machines that cost hundreds of millions of dollars for decades. You can always buy the very best and spend your money to get that and you will be wasting some of your money every single time. Finding the value takes some know how and sense. Anybody can follow the herd and always buy the best.
For those of you who haven't thought about it, running a cheap piece of crap oil filter for a 10,000 mile change interval on synthetic oil may not be in your best interest. That was the intent of my original post. I was looking for how people balance the long synthetic change interval against using a filter originally intended to go for far fewer miles. Very few people got it in spite of my efforts to redirect people back to the original question.
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Teddy1975
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Well, I can't say I have much experience with the P80s and oil changes, but in the 740 N/A I only changed the oil once a year when preparing it for the winter season. I always used 5w40 and Volvo stamped oil filters.
I drove the car around 15k miles per year of which about 40% was highway, 40% country road and 20% city traffic. Never saw a problem.
I plan on doing the same with the 850 N/A I have now, though for the time being my driving habits have changed to less than 8k miles per year with a good 3 hours drive on highway every 14 days.
I drove the car around 15k miles per year of which about 40% was highway, 40% country road and 20% city traffic. Never saw a problem.
I plan on doing the same with the 850 N/A I have now, though for the time being my driving habits have changed to less than 8k miles per year with a good 3 hours drive on highway every 14 days.
Current: V50 2.0D, 2007, 6 speed manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
- dosbricks
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Above are your two questions from your original post:98v70dad wrote:I've never used synthetic in any of my cars and I'm wondering how often I should change it. 8000 miles seems about right but its just a guess. Any recommendations?
Also if an oil filter stays in the car for twice as long are there any special considerations for choosing an oil filter?
Question 1. Yes, it appears most people (myself included) are changing full synthetic oil at 7-8k.
Question 2. The consensus was to use a Mann filter. Don't blame the forum members if you don't like that answer and choose to save $1.50 per filter while we are (in your view) wasting $3 per year for a warm fuzzy.
If you have engineering data that shows we are wrecking our engines by using a Mann filter for 8k then please feel free to present it. I'm sure we would all like to examine it. The obvious is that full synthetic is "slicker" than dino oil and the result is less wear (less ground up engine material accumulating in the filter), in addition to less heat related breakdown of the lubricant.
I have roughly 36 years combined experience owning the P-80 cars in my sig. All of that time using full synthetic and Mann filters and changing oil every 7-8k. Presently both cars leak no oil. Between oil changes, the 850 uses about 1/2 qt and the S70 uses a little less than 1 qt (mileage in my sig). I can live with that, and the supposed loss of the $216 I might have wasted by not using Purolator filters.
BTW, I don't think many members of this forum are "running a cheap piece of crap oil filter" for 4k or 8k or at all.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
The reason there is so much arguing is because there is no right answer. The correct oil change interval is going to be different for every car depending on driving style, engine wear, road conditions ect. Only you know what kind of conditions your car ran for the last 3-15k miles. I physically check my oil at least once per week I change when I feel it is necessary which for me is 5-7k miles on a t5 motor with synthetic oil. That is probably to early, but only way to know for sure would be to pay for oil analysis.
- abscate
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As oil change interval threads go,this one is civilized and tame, and the mods appreciate that and thank you all.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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