1999 S70 GLT: Prolonged Cranking to start when cold

[beigg]

did you do an oil change? If so, what weight did you use?

If you did not change the oil, try changing the oil and filter using the correct grade of oil and a decent filter (not a fram) .

If it still does the extended cranking, can you read the oil pressure using a mechanical gauge? What does it read during cranking and during runnong (once started) when first start/use?

[denraden03]

Since I did the cylinder head about a month ago, I have changed the oil twice. first time to get rid of any residual coolant in the block,and then a second time about three weeks ago. I used 10W30 and a cartridge from the dealer.

[polskamafia mjl]

What's the difference between using starter fluid and using gasoline if the car will start using either of the two.
How will the starter fluid help me to isolate the problem.

I'm curious about this too. Ever since the manual swap my car also has a long crank time when its cold.

[denraden03]

Update:
Test performed:
Temp 58 degrees, Key 'ON' fuel pressure immediately at 55 psi. Pump good
Crank engine, No start.
Introduced starter fluid, car started immediately. My reasoning > No cold start enrichment.
Went to Volvo and purchased an OEM CTS. My reasoning > ECM needs correct input from CTS for cold start enrichment. However, the resistance readings are the same as the other 3 sensors I have. WASTED MONEY, I guess. Will test again tomorrow.
What other parameters does the ECM need for cold start? Am I totally missing something here?

[abscate]

I don't recall if you cleared the cam sensor problem. Do you still get the code?

I think it's time to pull the injectors and send them for cleaning/ evaluation. Cost about 75 USD

Together we aspire, together we achieve....

[beigg]

Since I did the cylinder head about a month ago, I have changed the oil twice. first time to get rid of any residual coolant in the block,and then a second time about three weeks ago. I used 10W30 and a cartridge from the dealer.

I understand what you are saying. Assuming that I use starter fluid, the vehicle will start, so that rules out the ignition system.
What's the difference between using starter fluid and using gasoline if the car will start using either of the two.
How will the starter fluid help me to isolate the problem. ENLIGHTEN ME please. I am kinda loss for the moment.
Given that I put the gasoline in and cranked the engine with the injectors working the car did not start. As soon as I disabled the injectors the car started.
I am going to surmise that if I used starter fluid the same thing may happen. Then what?
I will purchase some starter fluid today and test it tomorrow and post the results.

Here are my thoughts to the situation.
Two possibilities, with one least likely the cause. Starting with the less likely scenario:
Spark makes or breaks a reliable, efficient, and performance capabilities to an engine.
What color is your spark?
1: Weak component or compromised wiring could be to blame for the hard start.
However, given how it’s upon initial startup and doesn’t rear its issue throughout the day, I’m inclined to suggest it as less likely to be the issue - In my opinion.
Compression will cause all kinds of rabbit holes for diagnostic troubleshooting.
What is your cranking compression per cylinder as of current?
2: Without proper comp. the obvious troubles can occur. You might have on par static compression, but reside with poor dynamic comp. The ideal quench to initiate the “first pop” or “bang” can be the most difficult for an engine. It is starting out the day with the least amount of lubricant and has depleted all reserved compression overnight. If you toss in poor timing, it will cause even more havoc results. Lower octane takes less effort to fire-off. Less effort in this case is lower compression.
Being it a higher revving engine, it only magnifies the problem when it comes to compression related issues.
Once the engine sucks enough air to bag the air to bang, it can then finish blowing out the waste.
Validate that your timing after your recent head work is verified to be accurate.
This is what I am firm to believe to be your issue.

[denraden03]

@ abscate: Yes, after replacing the CVVT solenoid, I cleared the code and have put a couple hundred miles on the car with no returning CEL. As a matter of fact I have put about 700 miles on the car since I did the head. Car works great except for the issue we are discussing.
Your suggestion is something I have thought about. I have nothing to lose by having the injectors serviced. As a matter of fact I have a shop close to me that does this type of work. He recently did the injectors on my Jaguar and was a next day turn around. However, before I do the injectors,let me be very clear on this morning's results.
Last night I spliced a small vacuum hose going to the intake manifold. This morning, I undid the splice, sprayed some starting fluid and attempted to start the engine. Nothing happened.
I then disabled all 5 injectors and the car started immediately and ran until the starting fluid burnt off maybe 1-2 seconds. I repeated the test and the same thing happened.
With approximately 4 seconds of run time all together. I enabled the injectors and the car started and ran fine.
Just my 2 cents: It seems as if the starting fluid together with the injectors working, is causing overfueling. Removing the injectors from the equation, and the car starts. FYI, I changed out all relays and my MAF today. Why? Cause i had them and you never know.
(I worked as a reverse engineer for GM for 25 years and I can't reverse engineer this Volvo problem. I have built many big and small block GM engines and a great lover of Jaguar engines. I am able to resolve the famed "Lucas, king of darkness" problems. VOLVO has me stumped. My friends at the East coast Jaguar club all tell me laughingly to trade it for another Jaguar. ( Less headaches, more Lucas darkness)

@ beigg: Your point is well taken. My timing is "on the money". Spark seems good based on how nice and clean the spark plugs are burning (greyish white). I will take a look at my compression readings early in the morning or before my next first start.
I am using 93 octane and am also wondering whether I am having the Lawn Mower effect on first cold start. It works fine after that first start.

[abscate]

You usually can tell LMS as you get funny, fast cranking due to low compression.

You could try a cold compression test to confirm LMS.

I think your diagnosis of flooding is correct. Fuel injector evaluation is next

[beigg]

Fuel pressure regulator vacuum source good?

[abscate]

Fuel pressure regulator vacuum source good?

First year of ME7 with no FPR on this car