3rd radiator at 240K

[j-dawg]

I've seen a few all aluminum racing radiators, but they tend to be more than double the cost ($400-500). I can deal with a new radiator every 100K miles for the savings I guess...

This comes up in every thread about cracking radiators, so I feel compelled to respond in kind in every thread. A prominent Volvo aftermarket parts maker - can't remember which, I think IPD - made a couple Al radiators and ended up scrapping the project because the radiators kept cracking. My thought is that you're installing an aluminum radiator with a mounting scheme designed for plastic, and it just doesn't handle the flexing and vibrations as well. But that's a guess, not a fact. I'm sure some smart dude can come up with a scheme that mounts up nicely but doesn't crack.

[abscate]

I put a Nissens into my 1999 at 140k? In 2013. Now at 175k with no problems

[JDS60R]

You have a serious corrosion issue there. If its bonded to the metal then it may be elsewhere. Either way - you can see what its doing to metal
Switch antifreeze to something else - try Volvo coolant.

Also - do the electrical test and let us know DC volts while running.

[songzunhuang]

I've seen a few all aluminum racing radiators, but they tend to be more than double the cost ($400-500). I can deal with a new radiator every 100K miles for the savings I guess...

This comes up in every thread about cracking radiators, so I feel compelled to respond in kind in every thread. A prominent Volvo aftermarket parts maker - can't remember which, I think IPD - made a couple Al radiators and ended up scrapping the project because the radiators kept cracking. My thought is that you're installing an aluminum radiator with a mounting scheme designed for plastic, and it just doesn't handle the flexing and vibrations as well. But that's a guess, not a fact. I'm sure some smart dude can come up with a scheme that mounts up nicely but doesn't crack.

Hadn't thought of the effects that the aluminum ones would experience over time. I guess I made the mistake of thinking that if it costs a lot more, it must be better!

Thanks for the insight.

[songzunhuang]

You have a serious corrosion issue there. If its bonded to the metal then it may be elsewhere. Either way - you can see what its doing to metal
Switch antifreeze to something else - try Volvo coolant.

Also - do the electrical test and let us know DC volts while running.

First time I heard about the DC volts test. I'll give it a shot, probably over the weekend as the car is driven by my daughter daily.
So what am I looking for? I'm guessing a specific voltage reading that corresponds with the amount of impurities in the coolant? What should I expect?

[songzunhuang]

OK, so this is a very interesting discussion but I still don't have answer due to "forum drift".

So I thought I'd try this another way. See picture below. Anyone know the answer?

What is the inside and or outside diameter of this hose? Thanks for any info.

If I don't get an answer, I'll go measure it in the dark this evening (taking off an air intake tube which is in the way) and report back. Will this be a a rare case where the forum was slower to the answer than the do-it-yourselfer?

[abscate]

Please don't do that to this cool topic. It's bordering on forabuse.

Cut the hoses and measure. There isn't even a guarantee they are OEM after so many years

[JDS60R]

Report back and tell us what voltage was. remember to turn on all electrical load (ie. ac, fan, high beams,heated seats etc) .
Please be specific on if it is a positive or negative voltage. It should be low on the new rad and new fluid

[JDS60R]

Its been a while since I did those hoses. You don't care about the o.d. as there is plenty of space where that goes. If I remember the T fitting is slightly smaller than the valve which is in the 3/8 to 7/16 ID area. What is important is to make sure you get PCV rated hose that can handle oil vapor or better (oil,fuel, trans line etc are all fine if they are out of PCV oil vapor rated). Vacuum hose is not meant to carry petroleum vapor ( just air) so it is less resistant.

[songzunhuang]

OK, so this is a very interesting discussion but I still don't have answer due to "forum drift".

So I thought I'd try this another way. See picture below. Anyone know the answer?

Checkvalve_hose.jpeg

If I don't get an answer, I'll go measure it in the dark this evening (taking off an air intake tube which is in the way) and report back. Will this be a a rare case where the forum was slower to the answer than the do-it-yourselfer?

I had a brain fart. I realized that I posted this in the wrong thread. I had another thread going on about the vacuum hose here. Jumping beween threads, I got confused. I am myself responsible for the "forum drift".

Here's the link to the proper thread for the vacuum hose question.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=74636

Sorry for the tangent.