Difficulty of removing turbo on 98 S70 GLT

[VolvoS70Driver]

ok, stupid question of the day, are there supposed to be gaskets or seals of any kind on either flange of the turbo?

[JimBee]

I tried to break apart that turbo to downpipe flange and found the same thing—they're stuck together. I didn't get mine apart. I think one part is tapered male. I know some people break it apart at the banded joint, but that one is also a tapered fitting. If you really want to get it apart at the downpipe joint, I think you'll need to put screw the nuts onto the studs (like you already have them, with the stud threads not quite showing) and tap them with a light steel hammer until it breaks apart. I would not use the OEM nuts for that, I'd get some steel nuts from the hardware store and use those. I think the OEM ones are brass and you don't want to bugger them.

[VolvoS70Driver]

I actually was able to get it apart using a long handled cold chisel and several not too hard wacks with a small ball peen hammer. I stayed with a smaller hammer just so I wouldn't transfer too much shock to the turbo. There was just enough of the down pipe flange standing proud of the joint that I was able to get the edge of the chisel on it.

It did raise just a little burr on the metal but a small file will easily take care of that.

Brass nuts. As tight a fit as it was coming off, I have to wonder if they will withstand the torque of pressing it back into place.

[Ozark Lee]

The 50 PSI test pressure is about right for the oil cooler. I think the oil pressure is typically in the 45 to 50 PSI range during normal operation. That is why the flow is alway back to the coolant when there is a breach since the coolant is usually under 10 PSI.

The condenser coil has obviously been changed. Aircon is a pretty popular aftermarket brand that is sold through most of the chain auto parts stores, at least they used to be. I think I bought some of their stuff for a Jeep years ago and it worked fine.

...Lee

[VolvoS70Driver]

Making my list of parts to order today. Trying to make sure I don't miss anything and have to order one little part and pay shipping that would be more than the part.

Figuring on the OE radiator as have seen a couple bad reviews on the Nissens but not sure about the Cryomax and then there are other misc aftermarket brands as well.

There are gaskets available to fit both inlet and outlet of the turbo even though I didn't have any to remove. My Swedish Parts lists the turbo to downpipe gasket for this model and fcpeuro lists the manifold to turbo gasket for this model. I am considering ordering both and using them as I do believe that I have had exhaust leaks at both points over time. Any negative thoughts to using gaskets?

Also debating the lower radiator hose and the huge variance in cost between different brands. Being such a pain to get to and knowing it has not been replaced for at least the 10 years I have owned it I would like to do it but am trying to keep within a budget as my cash flow is very weak right now. Any thoughts as to reliability of the other brands? Uro, Rein, Gates, Dayco, Makcay, etc?

When I pulled the cooling lines from the radiator (engine oil and trans oil) there was a white spacer along with the o-ring on the pipe. At least one of the spacers cracked and I am having a real problem trying to verify which part number this is vs the o-ring. So far I have [Volvo] p/n 6842414 for the white spacer seal and either 6842413 or 968757 for the actual o-ring. Pic of the spacer below with the line clamp beside it for context. Can anyone confirm this?

Any benefit to going w/ silicone hoses for the turbo inlet and outlet cooling lines? Last longer? Hold up better? One place has a silicone set for pretty much the same as an oem set but again, I don't want to have to touch these ever again.

[Seaway]

Get the silicone. They are easy to work with durable and look better. If the cost is the same it is a no brainer.

[rguzz]

See my recent posts on oil cooler line replacement as I had mine pop off and all pertinent info regarding C clamp, seals should be in there. FCP website or IPD lists these O rings as well. There is lots of info in the database about these parts. The broken O ring in your pic is the inner one that sits on the oil cooler line, radiator side and the PN is correct. Be sure the C clamp is installed correctly, as it was when removed, and secure with hose clamp as was outlined in my recent post. This link is helpful, but doesn't answer your direct question regarding PN's. http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread. ... oler-lines

[erikv11]

... Also debating the lower radiator hose and the huge variance in cost between different brands. Being such a pain to get to and knowing it has not been replaced for at least the 10 years I have owned it I would like to do it but am trying to keep within a budget as my cash flow is very weak right now. Any thoughts as to reliability of the other brands? Uro, Rein, Gates, Dayco, Makcay, etc?

When I pulled the cooling lines from the radiator (engine oil and trans oil) there was a white spacer along with the o-ring on the pipe. At least one of the spacers cracked and I am having a real problem trying to verify which part number this is vs the o-ring. So far I have [Volvo] p/n 6842414 for the white spacer seal and either 6842413 or 968757 for the actual o-ring. Pic of the spacer below with the line clamp beside it for context. Can anyone confirm this? ... .

URO: stay away, run away, never buy a rubber part (any part really) from URO
Rein: haven't used their hoses, so I am skeptical. Some of their gaskets are junk, some are good.
Gates and Dayco: this is where I would go if I just couldn't muster the cash for the Volvo-branded hose
MacKay: I have had a couple of their hoses on my Volvos, upper rad only, they are on the flimsy side but have never failed on me.

The lower hose is a PITA to get to, can get a lot of oil on it and gets loads of heat from sitting right on the engine, IMHO it is the most important one to go OEM (cheapest I can find is $43 http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-Vol ... iator-Hose)

You are all set already on the other parts info:
6842413 and 968757 are the same thing, the o-ring.
6842414 is the seal, goes against the rad.

[VolvoS70Driver]

I learned my lesson with URO after I did the first PCV overhaul. Just didn't mention it so as to not bias the question. The big rubber elbows are the worst, specially the one at the oil separator. Think I have all parts accounted for and wanting to narrow it down to two places max but actually looking like I may get the best (lowest) cost ordering from my Swedish parts even though it won't be free shipping while it would be at some of the others. And it would all be oem from there (though surprisingly, even they offered a couple URO parts). Can go off brands with a few non-mission critical parts but I really don't want to have to dig into this again any time soon. This will have been the fourth time I have pulled the intake along with bunches of hoses to get to things that need fixing or cleaning out. Hopefully this will get me to my 250k goal as I only have about another 60k or so to go.

Thanks for all the assistance and input with this.....

[sleddriver]

Any benefit to going w/ silicone hoses for the turbo inlet and outlet cooling lines? Last longer? Hold up better? One place has a silicone set for pretty much the same as an oem set but again, I don't want to have to touch these ever again.

I was reading some user comments on IPD about how frustrating getting the silicone turbo coolant lines in place was. Very, very tight. You may want to read yourself. If you go this route, I'd suggest soaking the appropriate end in near-boiling-water to loosen it up and using silicone grease.