P80 855 Tailgate Rattle Fix

[dyn blin]

I performed a quick search of the repair database, and didn't note a documented fix for this particular issue. What follows includes a walk through & a bunch of photos in case it may help others. With the exception of potential for brittle trim pieces broken when removed to get to this point, it’s an easy fix for a noise issue that drove me to distraction (see what I did there?).

*Matthew-I have a PDF of this, but can't load it due to size- I'll send it for integration if you want it)

The Problem: A persistent and loud rattle over rough roads coming from the tailgate of my ‘97 850 GLT Wagon. It sounded similar to the tailgate being open and rattling against the frame, despite the tailgate securely closed.

Background: I previously used an IPD-sourced Tailgate Panel Repair Kit. The kit better secured the trim panel & corrected some of the noise, but a loud rattle persisted from the interior handle area. When I had the need to replace the rear wiper motor, and while I had the interior trim panel off to do so, I explored further. I found the plastic bracket that holds the plastic handle and release lever (called "cover" part # 9411516) was cracked around the area that secures the lever. However, this was not the source of the rattle. The rattle was coming from a plastic cover that is normally secured between the latch mechanism and body panel –it had come loose. Pictorial and access instructions follow.

There are a number of good references for guidance to remove the rear tailgate interior trim panel. I won't repeat those steps here. However, no matter how gingerly I try to remove the plastic handle frame, I invariably break a number of its tabs. You may want to be preemptive and order a spare: Volvo part # 9406443.

After the trim panel is removed, remove the "cover"- it's secured by 2 X 10mm bolts on each side. Note the orientation of the tabs on the "bottom" of the cover, & where the frame fits into the "slots" created by the tabs-yours may have a bit less Labrador hair (this looks “up” as the tailgate is raised):

In the next 2 pictures, note the front and back of the cover/bracket removed. The plastic stressed and cracked around the area that secures the release lever (thanks to anfranco60 for his donation from the carcass of his moose for a replacement). Note the short rod on the back of the cover actuated by the latch lever. Its "home" will be shown in the next pictures.

Behind the cover, you'll see the latch assembly with the linkages that operate the release. You'll see 3 holes, 2 occupied by steel rods; the 3rd is empty from removal of the "cover" bracket holding the rod attached to the interior latch release lever in the previous picture.

One of the rods may be removed by pulling outward to unseat it from the plastic retainer:

The other may be slid out from the "top" after releasing it from the brass hinged fitting on the opposite end.

Note this picture showing the rods in their correct placement before it was dissembled. When reassembled, correct latch function depends on the rod that ends in the white plastic fitting on the “inside” of the longer rod (the longer being the one with the top secured by the brass fitting).

Now the latch assembly itself is ready for removal. It is secured by 3 Torx bolts (T40)

Remove the connector that powers & controls the lock solenoid:

Then slide the mechanism at an angle around & out of the frame:

Pics of the loose cover& latch mechanism from a few angles:
Plastic Cover both sides-

Latch assembly “front” & “back”:

I found the back plastic cover had snapped loose of the mechanism. The plastic cover was rattling against the metal of the frame- sounding much louder than it looked like it should. I snapped the cover back into position; made sure the plastic tabs were secured, and tacked a furniture foot-pad to keep it snug against the frame to try keeping it from migrating as easily.

To reassemble, slide the latch mechanism assembly back into place. Secure with the 3 T40 Torx bolts. Reconnect the solenoid plug. Reconnect the steel rods: Connect the "hook" of the "inside" rod into the plastic retainer. Then slide the longer rod in from the top around the "outside" of the previous rod. It slides into the remaining hole closest to the back of the mechanism. Snap the brass connector at the top of the rod. If you get the rods in the correct holes, but reversed, the latch will still close, but it will bind and the outside handle won't smoothly return to its resting position, and the tailgate key slot will resist turning when trying to lock: Refer to the 7th photo for correct placement. Reattach the cover with the 10MM bolts, making sure the rod attached to the interior release lever is received into the last open hole in the latch assembly. Also note the in the first photo the placement of the plastic tabs against the frame. Follow online directions to re-seat the interior trim panel, snap the handle cover into place, and enjoy one less rattle in the old moose.

[sleddriver]

Nice work & photos! Thanks for posting!

I too have been in the tailgate to treat the sheetmetal for noise intrusion using constrained layer damping tape, mass loaded vinyl and hot glue to pin loose parts/wires in place. My "tailgate repalr clips" have all broken again, so this time I'm going back in with sheet-metal screws.

[dyn blin]

Yes, those are very fragile. I always "order ahead" for a panel anchor repair kit when I have a project that involves removal of the tailgate trim panel- either from IPD or FCP depending on price, and keep any salvageable pieces in the tool box for next time. Warm days seem to make the panel more forgiving when removing.

[Geevs]

Great article. I'll give this a try next time I'm removing the tailgate cover.

Have you changed the tailgate latch strike plate? I read there is an upgraded version of the strike plate designed for later year P80s that helped dampen noise coming from the latch.