2003 XC70 Power steering heavy.. Solved with lube bearing CV Topic is solved

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 17 Mar 2016, 17:36

2003 XC70 with almost 200K on it.

No leaks in the rack...looks great. No odd groans in the system or the pump. Always topped off with OEM prestone since I've owned it.

Buddy who is a Volvo nerd says it sounds like the pump...mechanic down the street said he suspects seals in the rack. I won't be doing the later but would entertain a pump replacement as it appears easy enough.

Thoughts?

Post by **cvergi01** » 18 Mar 2016, 09:39

there's really not much to these systems. Unless there is a kink in the lines somehow, I'd go with pump.

Post by **chrism** » 18 Mar 2016, 11:20

I'm not so sure about Prestone being the OE fluid of choice. Is this the one you have been using?

http://www.prestone.com/enmx/node/1102

Volvo specifies using a CHF-11 fluid, particularly due to its low temperature qualities. The one I'm familiar with is Pentosin which is sold through Volvo dealers and some of the better parts suppliers. Other brands may claim their product is "suitable" for that requirement, but I'd be leary.

If it's stiff only when cold, I would try a flush and top-off with REAL CHF-11 before I start throwing expensive parts at it.

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 18 Mar 2016, 11:25

good point but we know from data points everyone has been using pestone with success for years as an alternative to the OEM. But less it's not the "11" designation.

I agree...I'm not a parts thrower type but a flush and fill of OEM isn't cheap either! I'm sure I can find a used PS pump for cheaper then that!

It's heavy on most cold starts...gets better with warm up but I mostly highway drive, so it doesn't really get chanlleged much. It was just much terrible this winter...which was mild.

I did a full flush and fill two summer ago.

all good points to put in the equation and going your route could be easier.

Do you give any merit to the back rack possibility? Any internals seals known to fail that cause such and issue w/o visible leaks? Again, it's dry as a bone down there.

Post by **JRL** » 18 Mar 2016, 13:24

I would grease the lower column bushing and the rack U-Joint first

Post by **chrism** » 18 Mar 2016, 13:32

"...Do you give any merit to the back rack possibility? Any internals seals known to fail that cause such and issue w/o visible leaks? Again, it's dry as a bone down there...."

I've never had to replace a rack and I'm certainly not an expert on the internal workings of one. But I would think anything is possible including an internal leak that causes it to not function properly. It just sounds like to R/R the rack on these cars is rather involved so I would probably eliminate any other possibilities before digging into that.

Another possibility I thought of, although it's probably quite unlikely - could it be that the serp belt is slipping when its cold?

Oh, and what's the possibility that a steering column u-joint is starting to freeze up? Maybe hit it well with some spray lubricant just to see if it improves.

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 18 Mar 2016, 13:45

I'll double check those last two items for sure. Every now and then I hear a creak sound up front...which could be that u-joint for sure. I would usually think it's suspension but I rebuilt the entire front end last fall.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Mar 2016, 15:30

It's easy to check the lower u-joint, lower steering shaft has a 14mm bolt, then the boot cover at the floor, and the u-joint can be moved by hand. There is also a ball bearing on top of the boot cover that likes to seize.

I had the prestone synthetic for euro cars, then switched to chf 202 (same as chf 11). It improved. But my steering was rather easy when cold, and more stiff when armed up.

Another test is to lift both the front wheels and see how easy they turn. I heard someone who put a cheap top strut bearing complaining about hard steering.

Clamps at the dust boots on the rack can let water pass if they are not oem. The rack will start to rust, before starting to leak. A check is a good idea on both sides if replacement metal clamps are available (only solid metal clamps for this item, I've seen tie-wraps and the rack inside was rusted).

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 23 Mar 2016, 21:03

OK...

Looks like the bearing and the joint behind the rubber cover were to blame.

I took some photos and here is a quick procedure...

1. Take lower kick panel off to give you some more room
2. Peel back carpet
3. Boot is doubled over on itself. Peel the first layer back to expose big clip to remove.
4. Pull entire boot up.
5. Take that 13/14mm nut off the steering shaft and the lower part will swing away from the top that moves up and down.
6. You see the bearing in there. Mine was starting to get stiff and make have been a source of some sounds. Cleaned with brake cleaner, oiled and then greases. Good as new.
7. Exposed c/v joint was bad. Very stiff. Hit it with Kroil (sp?) penetrating oil and let is soak for half hour. Worked it up and down and left and right until my hand cramped...felt a bit better. More oil and more motions. Added some c/v grease, just some purple moly stuff I had from work for high temp use. Made a mess of the c/v joint and put back together.
8. Reverse of taking a part...went back together easily. Moves WAY more smoothly.

I'll include some photos below. I might still swap out fluid but I"m pretty sure the stuff I got is good enough...will report back this week after commuting.

Post by **abscate** » 28 Mar 2016, 05:06

Nice job and pix Shane. Strange that joint developed stiffness, it doesn't see too. Much grime does it?

The perils of old cars at 3x their life cycle .......

Added green check

Changed title to model format, problem, solution