new brake discs?

Post by **oragex** » 12 Apr 2016, 13:58

If the rotor is not at the thickness limit and the surface looks nice without deep grooves or rust, the new pads will quickly adapt to the rotor surface without any change in braking performance. There are many garages out there who will say 'look, there are some grooves in the rotor or there is some rust on the outer edge, the rotor must be replaced'. They say that because most car owners have no idea about brakes, and the garage makes good money on this job, not to mention they can easily exaggerate the price of the parts as well.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 12 Apr 2016, 15:05

qwertyjjj wrote:
nsjames wrote:

watch that.
You have to take the wheel off to do that
I was trying to see if there is a known caliper width for the v70 to eye estimate how much pad was left

the only way you can know is to measure things. you can't measure the disc thickness with the wheel on.
You can't accurately estimate pad thickness based on a photo on the internet trying to compare caliper parts to the pads.

Pull a wheel and measure things with a ruler. get answers. You've probably wasted more time taking photos and posting things here than it would have taken you to jack it up and pull a wheel.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Apr 2016, 05:15

If you are doing mostly own driving you have about one year left on the front brakes. If city driving, 6 months.

Do the before next winter.

You can have rotors turned but compare pricing to new. BMW quotes me a full hour, at 115 for 2, new rotors are 100 each

my local guy charges 20 to turn both.

You really should pull the wheel on an older car as the calipers can hang up, making the wear uneven, and kill your rotor on the side you can't see.

qwertyjjj · Post by **qwertyjjj** » 13 Apr 2016, 12:22

I'll have to buy a jack and some tools for that - probably worth the investment at some stage.
Brakes started squeaking today from front left.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 13 Apr 2016, 12:50

the factory provided you with the tools to remove the wheel.

just don't crawl under it while it's on a scissors jack. Get a jackstand or wood to put under the car.
don't use concrete block.

but many people have used a log in a pinch.

qwertyjjj · Post by **qwertyjjj** » 13 Apr 2016, 17:06

nsjames wrote:the factory provided you with the tools to remove the wheel.

just don't crawl under it while it's on a scissors jack. Get a jackstand or wood to put under the car.
don't use concrete block.

but many people have used a log in a pinch.

Funny you should say because I had a flat this winter and when I used the factory tool to loosen the wheel nuts, the metal bent in my hand! Cheap considering it's Volvo.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Apr 2016, 03:39

A nice 1/2 inch 18 inch long breaker bar and a 19 mm impact socket to remove.

In Canada, lube the nuts and install them to 70% of mfg torque ( 56 ft lbs) with the wrench that you keep in the car that way, you have a prayer to remove them on the road.

The wrench, socket and two good jack stands will cost you less than one hour Volvo labour.

Post by **oragex** » 14 Apr 2016, 06:52

Once when I bought a car, I had to go to a garage and ask them to loose the wheel nuts

They used a (very) long and thick pray bar, I think it was close to 2 meters long or about 6 feets. Even so, they had trouble

There are garages here that think a lug nut must resist a nuclear attack for some reason

After that place helped me, I tightened the lugs myself from then on. I had to sand the lug holes because the excessive force had damaged the wheel surface, like in this video

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 14 Apr 2016, 14:49

qwertyjjj wrote:
nsjames wrote:the factory provided you with the tools to remove the wheel.

just don't crawl under it while it's on a scissors jack. Get a jackstand or wood to put under the car.
don't use concrete block.

but many people have used a log in a pinch.
Funny you should say because I had a flat this winter and when I used the factory tool to loosen the wheel nuts, the metal bent in my hand! Cheap considering it's Volvo.

the tool is perfectly adequate if the lug bolts have not been over torqued.

You ever see someone hammering your lug bolts on with an impact wrench and you should walk over and kick them in the taint.

Anytime someone other than me mounts the tires on the car i take it home, undo them with my impact and then torque them myself with a torque wrench.
tire monkeys are not to be trusted.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 14 Apr 2016, 14:51

on a related note:

you could buy yourself tools/parts and do it yourself and still come out less than your quoted price, and end up with tools for the future.
brake pads are about the easiest thing you'll do next to an oil change.
Find a member that's nearby and let them supervise. If you were near me I'd watch you do brakes in my driveway.

new brake discs?

Re: new brake discs?