1995, 850, GLT, Power Steering

Rbaratt · Post by **Rbaratt** » 27 Mar 2016, 06:24

I need to replace both power steering lines from the rack to the pump. Doesn't seem like much of an issue until I look at the connections to the rack, as there is very little clearance. Without dropping the subframe has anyone been successful at removing these lines from the rack? I am thinking that if I use a hack saw to cut the tubing flush to the connector, then maybe I could have clearance to use a 6 point 16mm socket to remove the connection, and I am not sure of the socket size I would need for the other line, (maybe the same size?). These lines are very corroded and even if I could get a wrench in there I think the tubing is going to twist. I was able to get a 16mm wrench on the upper connection, and move it slightly, but I thing the lower connection will be a bit trickier as I am not sure of the size and it seems even more corroded than the other connection.

I work outdoors in the driveway, so I think lowering the subframe may just be too difficult under my working conditions.

Second, my replacement options from FCP are

1.) for the return line, Reins @$80 or OEM $100 and 2.) Pressure line only OEM available @ $189

2.) Two aftermarket options at Eeuroparts for the pressure hose, ProParts @ $80 or MTC @ $51

I was thinking of going OEM for the return (extra $20) and one of the aftermarket options for the pressure hose, ProParts or MTC.

Would appreciate any feedback regarding removal and installation options and/or replacement part options.

Thanks.

Post by **scot850** » 27 Mar 2016, 12:42

Just pulled a used rack as a spare a week ago, and even with dropping the front sub-frame bolts 15mm as per Volvo and dropping the rear of the frame I still ended up cutting the pipes as it is impossible to get in easily. As you are replacing the pipes anyway, then that will make it easier, as long as you can get a wrench in to tighten the new pipes.

As to brands, I tend to stick to OE or OEM. Many aftermarket parts are of un-known quality. Where a brand makes many different parts some can be good and some bad. The trouble is knowing which are which. I see a lot of Pro Parts Sweden for sale these days, but I have no idea what their quality is. Again, if you plan to keep the car long term, and don't want to do the job over again, then go OE or OEM.

Neil.

Post by **cuhfs** » 27 Mar 2016, 14:21

You most likely will need to use a crows foot socket there. Messy / PIA job without a lift. For entire rack replacement I did not remove subframe but rather lowered it extremely in rear and a little in front. Still need to use an engine support bar.
I used http://jorgenauto.com/aboutus.html for the rack and OEM lines
Steering was a little tight for a long while....but I think it was from the original knuckle still on car... not the new rack. I would use them again.

Rbaratt · Post by **Rbaratt** » 23 Apr 2016, 18:46

I started the ps line replacement and used a hack saw blade to cut the lines at the rack. I was able to get six point sockets in place to remove the fittings and then the lines.

My problem now is that I can't seem to snake the new lines into position. I thought it would be obvious how the lines went in but now I'm confused as to how to route these lines.

I'm also hoping that I can get these lines in place without any further disassembly. If anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 23 Apr 2016, 20:26

I made the lines two piece. allows for fishing the line ends to the rack easier and for any future servicing to the oil pan or RR engine-trans.
Didn't undo the subframe at all. Just remove the engine mounting bolts and lifted the engine with a jack and block of wood. Did it on an open driveway that had a major decline to the road.

Rbaratt · Post by **Rbaratt** » 24 Apr 2016, 17:52

Thanks for your reply, beigg. I removed the bolts to the front, rear and side mounts, then jacked up on the engine. Still not enough clearance under the rear mount to get the steering line in, and I noticed oil dripping from the rear mount. Decided that the rear mount needs replacement anyway so I removed the nut from the top of the mount, jacked up the engine again but I still couldn't get enough clearance to even get the mount out. Even if I were able to pry it out I'm sure a new uncompressed mount would need even more clearance to reassemble. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I got frustrated and after I noticed I need new cv boots I called it a day. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 24 Apr 2016, 18:19

you undid the torque mount too, correct?

Rbaratt · Post by **Rbaratt** » 24 Apr 2016, 19:43

That is correct, I think they are the two 18mm nuts.

Rbaratt · Post by **Rbaratt** » 25 Apr 2016, 04:08

I watched the video from Ben (FCP), on changing the mounts and noted that he leaves the front (I call it the front since it's on the front of the car) mounting bolt in loosely, before jacking the engine. He doesn't explain why, but I thought it might be to keep the bolt alignment from shifting, so followed that procedure.

If I could get the rear mount out, I'm fairly confident that I could get my power steering hoses installed. Just perplexed as to why I'm not getting the clearance I need?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 02 May 2016, 17:01

Rbaratt wrote:I watched the video from Ben (FCP), on changing the mounts and noted that he leaves the front (I call it the front since it's on the front of the car) mounting bolt in loosely, before jacking the engine. He doesn't explain why, but I thought it might be to keep the bolt alignment from shifting, so followed that procedure.

If I could get the rear mount out, I'm fairly confident that I could get my power steering hoses installed. Just perplexed as to why I'm not getting the clearance I need?

Hey Rbaratt? How did your project turn out? Did you have to remove that rear mount to get the new lines in? I need to replace my rusted power steering lines soon... And have been searching high and low for a nicely detailed video, a la rspi!, but haven't found one. Also for a detailed tutorial with pictures. Haven't found that one either! If you were able to take any pictures, that would be immensely useful.