To belt or not to belt...that is the question 98 V70 Topic is solved

[erikv11]

If it has a mechanical tensioner, then this is your cheapest source for a Volvo-branded timing path roller/belt kit ($124):
http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-Vol ... h-Belt-Kit

If it has a hydraulic tensioner, then this is your cheapest source for a Volvo-branded timing path roller/belt kit (again, $124):
http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-Vol ... h-Belt-Kit
AND you will also need the hydraulic tensioner ($85):
http://volvopartslisle.com/part/OEM-Vol ... ng-Element

Each part is $10-$15 more at the trusted retailers like FCP, so with their free shipping the costs come close (Lisle will charge shipping). But there is security in getting timing parts right from Volvo.

If you decide to do the water pump, I would go with Aisin from a retailer.

[SonicAdventure]

Photos of current set up. Looks like a hydraulic tensioner. Belt seems to look ok, but I don't have any real point of reference. Interior of belt casing shows no evidence of oil or coolant leaking. Water pump is marked Volvo and looks old, but again no leaking.

[erikv11]

Agreed, hydraulic.

Visual inspection of the timing belt path doesn't really help, it is a time/mileage thing. Well, unless you see something wrong it doesn't really help.

If it was me, in order to keep it on the road I would do the timing belt and tensioner ($210 plus shipping) and a full PCV service (you can do this on the cheap, about $40 I think. You will need a few OEM hoses, get those from Lisle as well, the rest is generic stuff). If feeling budget-conscious I would let the water pump go and just pay attention to it, peek under the cover like that every 6 months. The Volvo pumps can run a very long time.

[SonicAdventure]

Picture of serial # on TB cover; will confirm with block stamping to make sure this cover is original to the car.

[abscate]

Agree with Erik. Do TB and parts, skip water pump. Clean out PCV, perhaps no parts needed there.

[rspi]

Does this mean no calendar poll?

Do it all. A 10+ year old water pump is asking for it. You don't want to be back in there within 2 years. The pump is about $75 from FCP.

AS for the PCV, It can be done for less than $100. Get the hose from the box to the throttle body with the flame trap housing, an intake manifold gasket, the hose to the top of the engine, and the one at the bottom of the box. Clean the rest. Can be done in 2 hours but give yourself 4.

[oragex]

In the second picture, the belt looks fine to me if it's like that on every inch of it's length. Being this is a high mileage car, I won't expect it to run for more then 5 more years, which would be another 30K miles. Just personal opinion, I would keep an eye on the water pump and belt every 6 months. But I would check every pulley for smooth operation, both on the tb and on the serpentine belt.
This is only a personal opinion. Even without cracks, a 10 years old belt has harden and can develop a crack at any time so inspecting it regularly would be wise. Reason why the belt looks so good with 10 years and 100K miles on it, is the car was probably been driven very gently.

[polskamafia mjl]

As mentioned, inspection doesn't yield much. The main part that fails is the tensioner which you can't check without removing it, so at that point why not just replace it? The other main concern is the water pump which could be rusted out if the coolant hasn't been serviced correctly. Again, to check the pump you have to pull if off so why not just replace it at that point. And then of course you want to make sure the two rollers are in good condition. The belt is cheap especially if you get a conti belt so once again no reason not to replace it.

As far as age of the car, I daily a 95 with 280K-ish miles. I would like to still be driving it more than 5 years from now.

[kjj]

If you decide to drive it with the old belt, just be ready to switch if off at the first sign of strangeness under the hood. When I lost my timing belt, I had about 3 seconds warning as the water pump gave out. Squeal, "Is that steam?", engine locked up.

Your car, your choice, but the people here think you should change your belt. With an engine that clean, you won't even get dirty working on it. On my car, I'd have grease behind my ears before I ever got deep enough to take the pictures you posted.

[bmdubya1198]

FCP was running a deal on their TB kits...I would get it- all genuine Volvo parts and buy an Aisin WP separately if you need one. As already indicated, if you can find these genuine parts somewhere else cheaper go for it! My '98 has the piston type hydraulic tensioner. It is not too bad....you can use a C-clamp and compress yours and even if it's still good, I wouldn't chance it... If you have the newer mechanical tensioner, it for sure needs to be replaced at every TB change. INA evidently is the OEM maker for these, but not the older piston type hydraulic- for sure, get the Volvo branded one of these if that's what your car uses. Seems there was another way of knowing what you have- hmmm, let's see. Do you have a rotor and button ignition or ignition packs for your spark plugs? Seems the change-over mid-year occurred with these components being changed too and if you have the canister type (metal) oil filter or you have the cardboard insert, newer type...I can't remember exactly- it's been awhile since I've checked into these differences...

Volvo changed the tensioner mid year 1998, and those engines still had the distributor-type ignition system, spin-on oil filter, no ETM, and no variable valve timing. That all came along in the 1999 model, I've never seen a '98 with the coil-over-plug engine. My car has the mechanical tensioner, but it's the older engine.
OEM for the hydraulic tensioner is Aisin, I think.

OP- yes, you have a hydraulic tensioner. I agree with Robert, do it all. If the car is in good shape, it's definitely worth fixing it up and keeping it on the road.