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2001 V70 T5 Auto transaxle problems

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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01_Nautic_V70
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Re: 2001 V70 T5 Auto transaxle problems

Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

OK, so time to consider my options.

I could just sell the car for maybe $500. Look around and pickup a similar car for similar price. $2500-$3000 out of pocket.

Replace with Volvo rebuilt transmission. $3500-4000 out of pocket.

Replace torque converter with Volvo unit. $1000-1500 out of pocket.

Does anyone know if the torque converter from other AW55-50SN applications fits a Volvo unit? If so, those are a dime a dozen.


Side note, as an engineer at an original equipment manufacturer myself, it's maddening to me that one transmission can have the same part number but a myriad of minor differences in applications. Give them different part numbers if they're different!

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Valvebody not torque converter
You can't really just replace a converter, if that is shot, the rest of the tranny is shot .....and most of the labor is the same anyway

You can use a 2002 tranny but it's almost as bad as a 2001
2003 and up transmission is not a direct bolt inm some electrical parts must be changed.

Again, where are you located?
I can get a valvebody rebuilt and WITH LABOR to R&R it for about $600
You remove the valvebody and send it to me, I can have it rebuilt for $400 (you pay for shipping, both ways on top of that.
(You can pay retail and buy a reman V/B for 6 to $800)
Complete tranny rebuild with R&R included for under $3K
Obviously with a guarantee/warranty
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

I'm in the St Louis, Missouri area.

Wouldn't the "sitting in drive, throttle wide open and no motion" indicate the torque converter is junked? Would replacing the valvebody help me? Whichever route I go, I'll do the removal/install myself.

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

So the plan for the weekend is to drain and inspect the fluid for shavings/bits of metal and/or friction material. The fluid in there is only about 2 weeks old, so if' it's loaded up with anything, it's a harbinger that a grenade went off in the internals. If all looks good with the fluid, but I have no motion, does that point to valvebody? I'd think a catastophic failure of the torque converter resulting in no power transfer would load up the fluid with junk too, right?

So the troubleshooting will be: Look at fluid. If it's loaded up with bits, the transmission is coming out. If it's not, start removing that valvebody.

Anyone who's been through this have any advice or further instruction?

nsjames
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Post by nsjames »

01_Nautic_V70 wrote:I'm in the St Louis, Missouri area.

Wouldn't the "sitting in drive, throttle wide open and no motion" indicate the torque converter is junked? Would replacing the valvebody help me? Whichever route I go, I'll do the removal/install myself.
no, not always.
you'd need to tap into the pressure test ports to verify that the torque converter is spinning the input, and thus spinning the pump.

it's quite possible a failed VB is not engaging the pistons to actuate the bands in the transmission, or worn piston bores let enough fluid past that they don't hold pressure well enough to engage the bands.

this sonnax document is excellent for troubleshooting.
http://www.sonnax.com/articles/209-aw-5 ... nformation

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

nsjames wrote:no, not always.
you'd need to tap into the pressure test ports to verify that the torque converter is spinning the input, and thus spinning the pump.

it's quite possible a failed VB is not engaging the pistons to actuate the bands in the transmission, or worn piston bores let enough fluid past that they don't hold pressure well enough to engage the bands.

this sonnax document is excellent for troubleshooting.
http://www.sonnax.com/articles/209-aw-5 ... nformation
Ah, thanks. I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but if I get this transmission fixed, that stop-neutral software has to come out. I had read in another thread that one user had successfully installed the tcm firmware upgrade without a dealer? True?

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

First findings this morning. Fluid looks healthy and debris free. Bright red and nothing on the drain plug when I wiped it. Interestingly, the tip of the dipstick is gone. Could that have been sucked into the valvebody passages to block line pressure?

Next up, I need to pull this valvebody out.

nsjames
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Post by nsjames »

quite possibly, but I'd expect that it would have gotten lodged in the pump pickup. Either way if it's causing a no pressure situation it's not going to go into gear.

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Dare I ask where the pump pickup is located?

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

So after running all of the fluid I could drain through a coffee filter, nary one shaving or bit of clutch material or metal was present. So I don't think the internals of the transmission itself were harmed. That leads me to believe the valve body is jacked up and apparently there's a blockage in line pressure somewhere. I've cleared all of the obstructions out of the way and supported the engine with a hoist. Tomorrow, I'll drop the subframe and pull the valve body cover and body itself. Then it's p for debate whether to try and rebuild myself or to have it rebuilt.

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