1995, 850, GLT, Power Steering

[sleddriver]

I watched the video from Ben (FCP), on changing the mounts and noted that he leaves the front (I call it the front since it's on the front of the car) mounting bolt in loosely, before jacking the engine. He doesn't explain why, but I thought it might be to keep the bolt alignment from shifting, so followed that procedure.

If I could get the rear mount out, I'm fairly confident that I could get my power steering hoses installed. Just perplexed as to why I'm not getting the clearance I need?

Hey Rbaratt? How did your project turn out? Did you have to remove that rear mount to get the new lines in? I need to replace my rusted power steering lines soon... And have been searching high and low for a nicely detailed video, a la rspi!, but haven't found one. Also for a detailed tutorial with pictures. Haven't found that one either! If you were able to take any pictures, that would be immensely useful.

+1

How did it turn out Rbaratt?

[Rbaratt]

I put everything back together while I ordered and waited for the new mounts from FCP. I also ordered CV boot kits to replace the boots while I have everything apart. I received the parts and now the weather hasn't been cooperative. Since I work outside I've just been waiting for an opportunity, and it looks like next week-end I may be able to give it another shot.

The engine mount video from Ben (FCP) was the only one I watched, and like I mentioned, it does not explain how to gain additional clearance to remove the rear mount. The video shows Ben removing the mount easily by simply jacking up the engine, and that just did not work for me. I am thinking that maybe the drive shafts are preventing me from getting the additional clearance I need. Since I need to remove the drive shafts to do the CV boots, I will try again while the shafts are out.

Marco - I will try to take some pictures and document my procedures when I make the next attempt.

Fortunately I have other vehicles to get to work, but this is the one that pulls my fishing boat, so I would like to complete these repairs soon!

[Rbaratt]

Another thought...maybe the upper engine mount is preventing me from getting the clearance?

[theWIFES_S70]

Thanks for writing back Rbaratt! We're really interested in knowing how you got access to the nuts holding onto the lines. Many of us have lines that are rusting away... I guess you do have to remove the mounts to get at them. Why can't they be easier like the Honda power steering lines!!!

[sleddriver]

Another thought...maybe the upper engine mount is preventing me from getting the clearance?

I ran across a thread in the repair section that might help you. Lets see if I can find it.....................

Here it is: (Check the section I highlighted in larger text)

Front/Rear Motor Mount Replacement - 2WD Turbo Models (mine was a 1998 S70 GLT)
1. Remove radiator Fan. Remove 15mm/13mm top strut mount bolt/nut.
2. Remove 15mm top front motor mount nut.
3. Raise and support vehicle on jack stands.
4. Remove passenger front tire and bend back splash shield.
5. Support engine with a floor jack using a 2x4 across front of oil pan to distribute weight.
6. Remove both 14mm bolts attaching right front motor mount to engine.
7. Remove 14mm lower front motor mount bolt.
8. Raise front of engine and remove old/install new motor mount. Lower engine onto new mount.
9. Install but do not tighten 15mm nut and 14mm bolt on motor mount.
10. Install one of the 14mm right front motor mount bolts.
11. Lower engine and reposition jack with wood under transmission/bellhousing.
12. Support engine again and remove 14mm right front motor mount bolt again.
13. Remove 14mm lower rear motor mount bolt (use a wobble headed extension and put it through between the line and the sub-frame).
14. Using a stubby 15mm wrench, place it on the top nut and use a long wrench (such as a 24mm) and put the box end of the large wrench in the open end of the stubby and pull to loosen the nut - remove the nut.
15. Jack the engine up as far as it will go and replace the mount (if you can). If you can't (as I couldn't), go to next step.
16. Remove the lower 14mm motor mount bracket bolt (the one that also attaches the metal heat shield to the mount and bracket).
17. Rotate the bracket out of the way to access the lower 14mm bracket bolt, remove that bolt and the 14mm upper bracket bolt. You will have removed 3 14mm bolts to remove the bracket and heat shield.
18. Remove the bracket, and motor mount together but the heat shield has a harness attached to it that the clips will need to be disconnected before removing.
19. Remove the heat shield.
20. When installing the mount, slightly install the nut on the mount with the heat shield and bracket together and install it in the vehicle.
21. Rotate the shield out of the way again to install the 2 14mm bolts.
22. Attach the harness clips to the shield and rotate the shield to install position.
23. Install the 14mm bolt for the shield and bracket.
24. Lower the engine but not enough to put a load on the mount and install the 14mm lower motor mount bolt.
25. Install the right front motor mount 14mm bolts and tighten. Lower the engine all the way.
26. Tighten the rear mount 15mm top nut using the large wrench method to "push" the stubby wrench. Tighten the lower 14mm bolt.
27. Tighten the front mount 14mm bolt and 15mm nut.
28. Install the radiator fan and components (make sure the hose clamp for the intercooler hose is on top or the relay bracket will be a PITA to install.
29. Hope that no new lights come on!

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=21457

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=21369

[theWIFES_S70]

Wow, so in order to replace the power steering lines you have to remove motor mounts... Guess it's one of those jobs where, "you might as well replace the 18-yr old [INSERT RANDOM PART] while you're in there..."

[Rbaratt]

I'm throwing in the towel! I tried again, and with all the bolts and nuts off of all the mounts, I still can not get the clearance I need to remove the rear mount. I re-assembled everything to drive over to my independent mechanic. It's a first for me, other than installation of an exhaust system, I have not needed my mechanic for anything other than the yearly inspection sticker.

[theWIFES_S70]

Rbaratt, thanks for the update here. I had to do that the other day when I removed the broken motor mounts on my Altima only to find a piece of the subframe disintegrate from rust... Drove it gingerly to a shop where my mechanic (a friend) was able to weld it all back together... I'll get to my power steering lines this summer and will take pictures galore of the process... I hope I'm not done in by the motor mounts.

[sleddriver]

I'm throwing in the towel! I tried again, and with all the bolts and nuts off of all the mounts, I still can not get the clearance I need to remove the rear mount. I re-assembled everything to drive over to my independent mechanic. It's a first for me, other than installation of an exhaust system, I have not needed my mechanic for anything other than the yearly inspection sticker.

Bummer....I'm far too familiar with frustration when doing sled-service! Been there: Done that.

Did the added instructions I posted above make any sense/seem appropriate? I was hoping they would ease your frustration.

Despite replacing crank engine mount, lower xnsmsn mnt, my steering wheel is still shaking on start-up. I checked the upper torque mount (both of them) and they appear fine, so I didn't install the Meyle HD donut I'd ordered. However, appearances can be deceiving.....

So I'll be entering the dragon's lair and do the two hydra mounts. Currently waiting their arrival. Won't be doing it over Memorial Day though...spent too many recent weekends doing repair work.

My indy printed out the ALLDATA instructions. They suggest removing the rear motor mount bolts to swivel the heat shield out of way, to remove the hydrau. mnt. This area needs a good cleaning first to remove 18yrs of crud so I can see what I'm doing. I'll be posting my notes & results.

Thanks for updating us.

[Rbaratt]

The repairs have been completed by my mechanic for a very reasonable price. He did all the procedures that I did to raise the engine, but he had the same clearance issues to get the mounts out, so he suspended the engine in the raised position, then lowered the sub-frame to get enough clearance. He installed the PS lines, front and rear engine mounts as well as the donor PS pump and completed the state inspection. I don't have a support bar to suspend the engine, so I probably need to purchase or fabricate one to hold the engine in place for future repairs. Thanks for all the suggestions. Next are the CV boots and flexible brake lines!