Hello, I have recently acquired a '93 240 wagon. It has a little over 200k on it, but for the most part is in great shape.
I knew when I bought it that one of the rear windows did not go down. Since, it does not work locally or remotely (from the driver's controller) I figured it must be the motor that is in the door with the window in question.
To save a buck I went down to the local "Pick-n-Pull" for the part. I found a '89 240 wagon and went to work on the door. I eventulaly did get the motor out, but not without alot of work and a few choice words.
The problem is I really don't know how I am going to get back into my door without breaking something. If anyone has done this before, some advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
'93 240 wagon with window issues
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standard240
- Posts: 2
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- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Are you asking how to remove the door trim panel, or is the question deeper than this?
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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standard240
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 27 May 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
I can get the door panal off fine, but it is after that is the problem. There is a spot welded sheet metal piece that is in front of the motor and gears that moves the window. I had to really bang around in there to get the motor out of the one at the pick-n-pull. I don't know how to change out the motor without doing an equal amount of banging around and that is just for getting the old one out.
As far as getting the new one in there I am really lost.
I read the Haynes manual entry. All it had to say this that this is a complex system and to take it to the dealer. I would like to save money and use the motor that I have by putting it in myself.
As far as getting the new one in there I am really lost.
I read the Haynes manual entry. All it had to say this that this is a complex system and to take it to the dealer. I would like to save money and use the motor that I have by putting it in myself.
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Kmaniac in California USA
- Posts: 301
- Joined: 15 January 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Concord, California USA
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First of all, I have never worked on a 240. My only experience is with my 740.
From your description, it sounds like you removed the motor from the regulator while the regulator was still bolted inside the door. I strongly suggest you remove the regulator and motor together as a unit. Just release the regulator arms from the window frame and unbolt the regulator from the inside panel of the door. You should be able to move the whole unit about making disassembly a little easier.
When I bought the 740 three years ago, one rear window would roll down by itself, but would sit there and clunk repeatedly when you tried to roll it up. You could, however, help it up with both your hands and the motor. Then, while driving, it would slowly lower itself just from the vibration of driving around.
Once I got the car home, I removed the door panel, released the arms from the window frame, unbolted the regulator bolts from the inner door panel and removed the motor and regulator assembly, all in 20 minutes. I found that the plastic bodied regulator had cracked. I purchased a new, all metal regulator and motor assembly from an independent Volvo parts store for $200, a lot cheaper than the $500 quoted by the local dealer.
I cannot believe the 240 is more complicated than the 740, but anything is possible. Take another look and let us know if you have any questions or comments.
From your description, it sounds like you removed the motor from the regulator while the regulator was still bolted inside the door. I strongly suggest you remove the regulator and motor together as a unit. Just release the regulator arms from the window frame and unbolt the regulator from the inside panel of the door. You should be able to move the whole unit about making disassembly a little easier.
When I bought the 740 three years ago, one rear window would roll down by itself, but would sit there and clunk repeatedly when you tried to roll it up. You could, however, help it up with both your hands and the motor. Then, while driving, it would slowly lower itself just from the vibration of driving around.
Once I got the car home, I removed the door panel, released the arms from the window frame, unbolted the regulator bolts from the inner door panel and removed the motor and regulator assembly, all in 20 minutes. I found that the plastic bodied regulator had cracked. I purchased a new, all metal regulator and motor assembly from an independent Volvo parts store for $200, a lot cheaper than the $500 quoted by the local dealer.
I cannot believe the 240 is more complicated than the 740, but anything is possible. Take another look and let us know if you have any questions or comments.
Chris the "K MANIAC"
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Chris,
The removal procedure you describe for the 740 is exactly the same for the 240.
Bill.
The removal procedure you describe for the 740 is exactly the same for the 240.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
i had the same problem with this on my 86 240.
First thing you want to do is test the fuse for the power windows... of the top of my head it would be the 10th fuse down.
If power is getting to both sides of the fuse terminals then you know its not that issue.
If you remove the glove compartment you will find a relay there... test the relay.. look for the brown line which is the power and then test the red line which is the distribution to the control switch that makes them go up and down. Note.. the relay breaks down the power in two ways. Supplies a seperate circuit to the drivers window and both the rear ones and the passenger front window is on a seperate power line.
If one is working and the other isnt..then you know its a power supply issue.
To jump the relay i simply connected the brown wire to the red wires with some probes from my multimeter and connected them together and my windows worked.
If your window are not working then you can suspect that the motor is gone or the window switch is defective. You can simply take one of the window switches from the back passenger doors and try to replace it for the drivers window.
Before you do that use a tester to see if power is getting to the switch.
I find a common problem is the wires leading up to the unit behind the fuse box and feeding into the door (which you can see the tunnel when you open the door)..sometimes catch on the metal frame of the interior of the car and can lead to window issues. On mine i had to redo someone elses bad wire joining and it worked.
To remove the window mechanism... you have to remove the connecting by pulling the clips to the windows first.. once you remove that then the window cassette should come out with a few bolts.
Happy repairs .........forever!
remove the drivers side door trim and look for the line going to the window motor...
First thing you want to do is test the fuse for the power windows... of the top of my head it would be the 10th fuse down.
If power is getting to both sides of the fuse terminals then you know its not that issue.
If you remove the glove compartment you will find a relay there... test the relay.. look for the brown line which is the power and then test the red line which is the distribution to the control switch that makes them go up and down. Note.. the relay breaks down the power in two ways. Supplies a seperate circuit to the drivers window and both the rear ones and the passenger front window is on a seperate power line.
If one is working and the other isnt..then you know its a power supply issue.
To jump the relay i simply connected the brown wire to the red wires with some probes from my multimeter and connected them together and my windows worked.
If your window are not working then you can suspect that the motor is gone or the window switch is defective. You can simply take one of the window switches from the back passenger doors and try to replace it for the drivers window.
Before you do that use a tester to see if power is getting to the switch.
I find a common problem is the wires leading up to the unit behind the fuse box and feeding into the door (which you can see the tunnel when you open the door)..sometimes catch on the metal frame of the interior of the car and can lead to window issues. On mine i had to redo someone elses bad wire joining and it worked.
To remove the window mechanism... you have to remove the connecting by pulling the clips to the windows first.. once you remove that then the window cassette should come out with a few bolts.
Happy repairs .........forever!
remove the drivers side door trim and look for the line going to the window motor...
THE FLEET!:
93 854 GLT 20v non-turbo 435,000 KM +
94 854 20v non-turbo 215,000 KM ..new engine
87 745 B230 non-turbo 250,000 KM (newest edition Jan '07)
86 244 GL B230 non-turbo 460,000+ KM
93 854 GLT 20v non-turbo 435,000 KM +
94 854 20v non-turbo 215,000 KM ..new engine
87 745 B230 non-turbo 250,000 KM (newest edition Jan '07)
86 244 GL B230 non-turbo 460,000+ KM
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