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2001 V70 T5 Auto transaxle problems

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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01_Nautic_V70
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Re: 2001 V70 T5 Auto transaxle problems

Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

I've disassembled and cleaned the valvebody and replaced all gaskets. Used a small ultrasonic cleaner to get quite about of junk out of the linear solenoids. Going to start reassembling the transmission tonight with plans to fire it up by Saturday afternoon.

I also have a new inline filter to install (hope to catch any various debris knocked loose by all the transmission work) and the updated B4 servo cover. Based on the serial number, this was a very early 2001 V70.

I was also considering leaving a trans cooler line disconnected at first startup to verify the pump is really pumping fluid.

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Ok, as many would have guessed, the valvebody didn't fix anything. No go in any gear. So I checked main shaft lube pressure port. At cold start, it should be as high as 30psi. Warm, it should run 5-8psi. I have zero pressure at any rpm or temperature. So, the indications are:

1. No pressure in ATF
2. Whining noise from torque converter/bellhousing/pump section of trans
3. No motion in any gear
4. Sudden, not gradual, onset of problem

Based on the above, there's clearly something wrong with the pump system. Either the pump is shot, the bushings are so worn it can't make pressure at all or the pump is blocked and just sitting there cavitating/starving. I lean toward the latter based on the audible clues. I'm preparing to remove the transmission now. The top end is all clear and electrically disconnected. Sump is drained and cooler lines are disconnected. Axles are out and left hand side is stripped down to the subframe. Planning to build an engine bay bridge setup tonight to support the engine and allow me to drop the back side and remove the trans through the wheelwell at an angle.

Has anyone removed the trans this way? Anything I'm missing or should watch for?

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Transmission is out. I'll get the pump out this weekend. Does anyone know which filter is used in these? They are available with and without a lower rib (I guess to baffle some fluid in the sump?) I'd like to get that on order so I can replace as quickly as possible and get this back together.

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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Transmission opened and I've got a smoking gun, I believe. Filter was indeed clogged to the point of starving the pump. Looked at the magnets and they were absolutely coated in very fine particulates. Where'd the material come from? The fluid looked great, so I started looking at the friction materials.

Almost all clutch packs looked great, with the exception of the second coast clutch on the rear of the pump assembly. two steels had cracked and the friction plates were pretty torn up. Further in, a bushing on the rear sun gear was split in half and wearing on the sun gear shaft.

Parts are on their way, hoping to have this back together by the weekend and maybe back in the car by next Monday.

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Post by abscate »

Are you holding pictures hostage on this repair?

Sounds like a great VRD entry.

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Post by oragex »

Sounds like a great DIY, wish you sort it well. Good idea to throw the solenoids in the ultrasonic bath

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

abscate wrote:Are you holding pictures hostage on this repair?

Sounds like a great VRD entry.

:D
I have a lot of pictures from removal to trans disassembly. I'll put something together after it's back together and working. I don't want to jinx it by making a repair thread without a confirmed repair.

01_Nautic_V70
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

oragex wrote:Sounds like a great DIY, wish you sort it well. Good idea to throw the solenoids in the ultrasonic bath
Thanks. The little ultrasonic cleaners can be had for about $20-30 now. It's not very big, but I'm throwing all kinds of hardware in there as I reassemble anything. For larger items, I have to use simple green and elbow grease or the pressure washer.

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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Parts arrived last night. The bushing pressed into the rear planetary very nicely, so that's done. The rear sealing rings on the direct clutch are all cracked and need replacement though, so working on what to do about that. And the spring plate for the 2nd coast clutch is cracked. I don't see the part available anywhere, so I'm going to get this one welded.

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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Thankfully, the 2nd coast clutch pressure plate was easily welded and in good shape now. Ordered a set of teflon sealing rings for the direct clutch drum. Those seals being compromised means shaft lube pressure, C-1 clutch pressure and C-2 clutch pressure would have been connected.

I'm wondering if C-1 and shaft lube pressures being connected could have helped lead to the damage to bushing in the planetary. The shaft lube pressure shout be 8-25psi and C-1 clutch pressure can be as high as 200psi at max rpm.

This thing had a lot of issues, hard to tell which one was first and caused the others.

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