I trashed my A/C -- what next?

Post by **E Showell** » 29 May 2016, 11:43

Ok -- so since I got the S70 February a year ago, I knew it had no A/C. That factored into the price. I recharged the system to no effect. The clutch cycles frequently. I was unable to get zip ties on the compressor to attempt a zip tie fix. I do not think there are any leaks in the system as yesterday's adventure suggest.

Yesterday's adventure: out of frustration, I figured it might just need a recharge (although that did not seem to work particularly well last summer). I began charging and the filler flew off the recharge port, and was spewing dye and r134a into the atmosphere (sorry planet). So now, I'm pretty sure I've fried the inlet, but am not so sure there are other major problems with the system since I don't think last year's charge leaked out.

How do I replace the inlet line assuming whatever valve in there is compromised and how do I troubleshoot the system without throwing parts at it? I don't think there's an evaporator leak. I'm just getting frequent cycling from the compressor and no cold (although I guess the frequent cycling of the compressor could suggest a low charge, but I'm pretty sure yesterday's old faithful episode suggests the charge is not leaking out.

So what is the likely price of my stupidity? BTW -- it is the wife's ride so just rolling the window's down isn't an option in the Jersey summer humidity.

Post by **kahl** » 29 May 2016, 13:00

Evan can you post a picture of what is left of the filler port? I am going to the boneyard tomorrow and my find a serviceable replacement for you.

Post by **sleddriver** » 29 May 2016, 13:44

Need more history: If you bought it in Feb 2015, did your wife have A/C last Summer? Did it work then? Hold a charge at all? Has it ever since you've owned it? Outdoor ambient temp & dash vent temp? Does the suction line sweat?

Just because the connector came off doesn't mean you "fried" the inlet. It means it probably wasn't fully seated as it does lock in place. Further, if last years charge didn't leak out, then the valve still works. Put soapy water on it and see if it bubbles.

Jumper the low-pressure switch and see what happens. It could be defective. You may also have a wiring fault.

It would be rare indeed if your 98 has the original evaporator and it doesn't leak. Mine has for years now, but fortunately it's very, very small. Not worth fixing at this point.

I've recently noticed that my original compressor clutch is slipping. Outdoor ambient is about 85°F and 78%Rh due to the ongoing rain here. It'll cool to 52°, then rise to about 58, then on ocassion, drop to 42, where it usually is. The magnetic gap is probably excessive due to age (19 yrs) and gets worse when it heats up. So time to try the shimming trick.

Why were you unable to shim it?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 May 2016, 15:30

Was the refrigerant and dye spewing from the charge hose or the low pressure port on the car? If it was the charge hose then that is totally expected. If it was from the port then it isn't expected since the scrader valve should seal it off when the hose is disconnected. Like sleddriver suggested, the hose could have just not been fully seated on the port, the R-134A quick connects can trick you into thing they are locked on when they are not. So long as the port itself didn't snap of the suction line then about the worst it would be is a bad schrader valve core. They cost about $1.00 at any auto parts store but after it is removed you need to pull a vacuum on the system after you replace it and before you recharge it.

...Lee

Post by **oragex** » 29 May 2016, 15:41

If the clutch is cycling, the gap is fine, no need to put zip ties. Wasn't is blowing cold at any moment when the climate control is set to manual?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 29 May 2016, 17:12

I think you still might be fine- like sleddriver said....but as long as you covered the open valve with something- a bag with a rubber band or something. The issue is if you get moisture in the system then things get a little dicey. Let me add that my local Autozone has a "lend a tool" program where you put a deposit on tools (for their cost) but you get your deposit back when you bring the tool back. They allow you to "borrow" an evacuation pump for the A/C there...would be very much worth checking out. Like Lee said, you probably let moisture in the system so you need to pull a vacuum then start filling up with the canisters (or a tank of 134-A if you can procure one). Just be prepared for several hours of running the pump if I recall. I did this once several years ago because there was air in the system beyond gas and my A/C ran much better afterwords! When I fill, I even allow gas to be vented out of the charge hose before I connect so I don't get air (which has moisture in it) into the system- just my $0.02 - hope this helps! Oh, and another point- once there is no gas in the system, you'll probably have to jumper the connection up near the fire-wall to get the compressor to cycle. You want to fill it as the compressor is running. And another point- you probably need to add some PAG oil- not sure how much (others can chime in). Post back if you're not familiar with this.

Post by **E Showell** » 29 May 2016, 19:24

Ok -- so the inlet looks totally normal and I capped it with the inlet screw on cap before all the refrigerant/dye had leaked out. It seemed to hold a charge last summer, but I never got any cold air with the A/C on and blower on max. The compressor seemed to cycle much more frequently before it was charged last summer, but it now seems to cycle fairly frequently as well -- perhaps that was last summer's charge having leaked out.

As to being unable to shim the compressor gap, I can get a zip tie started, but when I try to pull it through with the needle nose pliers, I just end up stretching the plastic of the zip tie 'til it elongates and breaks.

Outdoor temp was about 85, don't know the vent temp but the air coming out isn't remotely cold. No real A/C to speak of last summer. When I bough the car I was told the A/C was DOA.

Don't know where the suction line is, so I couldn't tell you whether it sweats or not.

While I know what "jumper the low pressure switch" means conceptually, I have no idea where the low pressure switch is and have no idea how I might "jumper" it. I have jumpered the fuel pump relay, so I am familiar with the concept, but could use a little additional guidance. Thanks for all of the replies. And Stu, the inlet tube looks totally normal, but thanks very much for the offer.

Not familiar with pulling a vacuum or the PAG oil end of things. You might be able to tell I've never worked on a car A/C system before (and never on a house system either).

Post by **E Showell** » 29 May 2016, 19:25

Lee -- the spew was from the fill port on the car.

Post by **abscate** » 29 May 2016, 19:56

Evan...I think the next best step is to pull a vacuum on this system and see if it holds it. Are you set up with pump and gauges ?

Post by **E Showell** » 29 May 2016, 20:11

Steve -- No pump and gauges.