I trashed my A/C -- what next?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 May 2016, 21:51

The suction line is the pipe that has the low pressure port where you charge the system. It sound like you have a bad schrader valve core and they are real easy to change. The core is a bit bigger than a standard bicycle core and it takes a tool that is bigger but the auto parts stores all have the tool for cheap.

After the core is replaced you will need to have a vacuum drawn and see if it holds. If it holds just charge it up, or have the shop that draws the vacuum charge it up. The shops can do it by weight and get the charge spot on accurate.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 May 2016, 02:04

To jumper the low pressure connector, just pull the connector off and put a paperclip or a wire in the clip side...this will keep your A/C compressor running. You don't want to do this for a long time but the compressor needs to be running when you fill with new gas. Once there is enough gas in the system again, you can turn the car off, take the clip out and re-plug the connector- it should run now. The compressor will not engage when the A/C gas is low. Hope this picture helps!

Post by **oragex** » 30 May 2016, 04:32

E Showell wrote:As to being unable to shim the compressor gap, I can get a zip tie started, but when I try to pull it through with the needle nose pliers, I just end up stretching the plastic of the zip tie 'til it elongates and breaks.

Outdoor temp was about 85, don't know the vent temp but the air coming out isn't remotely cold. No real A/C to speak of last summer. When I bough the car I was told the A/C was DOA.

Just complementary to the other replies here, I did not put zip ties, instead I broke in pieces a feeler gauge and inserted the right thickness into the clutch plate spring, can be seen in the beginning of this video

Does the line going from the compressor along the engine bay wall feel cold to the touch? (careful near the running serpentine belt)

Post by **E Showell** » 30 May 2016, 04:59

So Steve, I've got a Harbor Freight about 20 miles away. If I'm heading over there, what should be on my shopping list besides set of gauges, pump, schrader valve & tool, PAG oil (how much?) and freon (how much)?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 May 2016, 07:46

I think it's a good guess as to how much oil to add. If you were replacing all components it would be different. You're pulling a vacuum and so you'll pull oil out but probably not a whole bunch. I'd personally probably put in about 2oz or so... you don't want to get to much!! Here is a little write up to help you understand the system and its requirements: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/850- ... rco-check/ One idea is to buy gas with oil already added...they sell these cannisters and it will probably replace all you need (if you can find them). I would buy 4 cans- maybe 5 cans of the 12oz ones for good measure....I think it takes about 4 if the system is fully evacuated and from a "vacuumed" state. I might be wrong on the last though- it's been awhile since I messed with the A/C in our cars.

Btw, you only need one gauge for our cars (I have a little plastic handled one piece unit with a reset thing you push in and it has a little dial where 25psi or so is in the green to indicate you're fully charged)- you can't check the high side...only the low. Everything is done there and when the system is pressurized (how many psi of gas you get in there) - can only be checked while the A/C system is running.

Post by **sleddriver** » 30 May 2016, 12:20

E Showell wrote:As to being unable to shim the compressor gap, I can get a zip tie started, but when I try to pull it through with the needle nose pliers, I just end up stretching the plastic of the zip tie 'til it elongates and breaks.

I waded into this late yesterday. Encountered a bit of difficulty getting started regarding size of ZT, how many to use, where to put them, where to jam the screwdriver and how far to open up enough of a gap. I ruined several ZTs as you described before I got the hang of it. Don't have any photos. My gap was .889mm. I was able to reduce it to .497mm. Had to use the small, shorter, thin ZTs as the longer, larger ones completely closed the gap; at least where I was trying to insert them.

E Showell wrote:Don't know where the suction line is, so I couldn't tell you whether it sweats or not.

It's the larger A/C line, to the right, coming out of the firewall. In your humid area, it should be sweating from the firewall all the way down to the port because when the A/C is working correctly, this line temp will be below the dew point.

Post by **abscate** » 30 May 2016, 18:14

Capacities for refrigerant and PAG

Two cans R134 will fill any Volvo

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 May 2016, 18:40

That's good but the trick is to estimate how much oil you lost during vacuum. I believe the chart above is what you would add to a compressor when you replace it (where most of the oil is). So, I don't think I want to add 200cc of PAG oil the the whole system through the shrader valve- that's 6 3/4 oz. What would you think- most of it, or quite a bit of the oil stays in the compressor and dryer? How much of that was evacuated?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 31 May 2016, 08:50

One of my refrigerant recovery machines has an oil separator that will show how much oil gets drawn out during evacuation and, based on experience, it is pretty insignificant. The recovery container is about the diameter of a half dollar and the residual oil that gets drawn out of my Volvo 850s/70s has never even covered the bottom of the container. The amount of oil that is pulled out during evacuation can change based on the port location on other makes of cars so it isn't a good blanket statement that it never draws out oil during evacuation but on the P80s that is essentially the case. Less than 1 cc.

I wouldn't hurt anything to add a bit of oil but I wouldn't get carried away with it.

...Lee

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 31 May 2016, 10:28

It been a long time since I have posted but I gotta ask Lee, where are you getting the schrader valve for a $1. Today I have tried 3 local parts places including a NAPA and they dont have the valve as it different from anything else they have and I had to go dealer for it and the o ring that fits in the back of the compressor for the accumulator line. I hate ordering for something that seems simple but no one has it and after 15 minutes on hold with e-europarts this morning I just called my local Volvo dealer and ordered what I needed. O-ring $5 and Valve $8. As cheap or less that our fave on-line places once shipping is factored in.

I trashed my A/C -- what next?

Re: I trashed my A/C -- what next?