850R AUT hard shifts

[jblackburn]

Shift looks fine, but your acceleration is very slow - I think the Cruze could give that a run for its money.

Looks like you've got stage 0 stuff to take care of, and possibly a boost leak.

Get your power back, and you won't have to drive it like you hate it anymore, which should help with shift quality too

[jblackburn]

Btw, a stutter that feels like transmission slip or something around 5000-6000 RPM is often spark plug or ignition related.

[kevinwalter]

Jep, I replaced the sparkplugs and ignition cables. Rotor looks fine. (Almost brand new)
I'm thinking of replacing my ignition coil. (Should I contact the Renault dealership? I guess it's much cheaper to get a ignition coil there. The Bosch numbers are the same. )

Also, the turbo valve is from a newer volvo. Is that normal? I've had it connected the wrong way. I've had so much boost. The TCM disconnected the fuelpump. So I connected it right way. Now it's sloooooow. The turbo is only 40.000 KM's old. Also all the air hoses are new silicons.

[Clemens]

I agree. The shifting looks alright, but my R seems to be way quicker.

What do you mean by: the fuel pump was disconnected? If you connect it the right way and you end up with a slow car: how can this possibly be the right way? Also: keep changing the ATF frequently for a while till the drained flhid is no longer dark but clear.

[jblackburn]

If you've put new plugs in it, what kind are they, and where are the gaps set? Bosch and Autolite Platinums and these engines do NOT get along - like I said, this was when I felt that my transmission was going as well.


This is the correct routing for the turbo control valve. Either the circular or square design will work; hooking the vacuum lines up backwards will overboost and lead to a forced fuel cut by the computer.

Also check/replace your turbo air hoses themselves. It is possible to have a hole in these, leaking lots of boost, and a check engine light not come on.

[kevinwalter]

If you've put new plugs in it, what kind are they, and where are the gaps set? Bosch and Autolite Platinums and these engines do NOT get along - like I said, this was when I felt that my transmission was going as well.
This is the correct routing for the turbo control valve. Either the circular or square design will work; hooking the vacuum lines up backwards will overboost and lead to a forced fuel cut by the computer.

Also check/replace your turbo air hoses themselves. It is possible to have a hole in these, leaking lots of boost, and a check engine light not come on.

I bought original Volvo spark-plugs and checked the gaps. They were ok.

Jep, that's the fuel cut I talked about. Also an TCM error code is enabled afterwards. And I used this picture to set it up. I replaced all the turbo air hoses already with silicon ones.

The only thing that I did not change are the spark plug rotor, distributor and ignition coil. Could these be the problem? I'm going to check that out tomorrow.

[kevinwalter]

Alright, changed the ignition coil. The engine runs much smoother. Not the shifting tho... (The last days it took a long time for the car to start. Now it's within the second turn)

What can I do now? Replaced almost everything now and it's getting really annoying.
Boost is fine to. It looks slow but it is stock. Did not find anything wrong with it.

[jblackburn]

Are shifts at like 2500 RPM and NOT flat to the floor rough?

[jblackburn]

Seemed like my stock S70 had a lot more oomph to it flat out, but I usually took it pretty easy.

[kevinwalter]

Are shifts at like 2500 RPM and NOT flat to the floor rough?

It is. When at 10-20% throttle it goes smooth. After that it goes in gear with a bit of a bang. It's shifting to fast.

What can it be? The turbometer is at 0.6 bar. 10lbs?