Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

A bad MAF will do no more than give MAF codes and make it run poorly. It may give the "engine system service urgent" with many other engine problems.

[AhhShark]

Should I take it off and try to re-solder/ get the voltage closer?

[AhhShark]

The only other codes I have is a ect sensor and two oxygen sensors with this make the engine service urgent message come up?

[precopster]

Voltage is good enough. In fact they will run at anything from 1.25V to 1.55V.

O2 sensors must be replaced

[AhhShark]

The tps code p0121 came on today. What could this mean? Did I mess something up? Do I need to take it apart again?

[precopster]

Ok after all this you may have a throttle with only one output. Proper operation requires 2 outputs. Did you separate pin 4 on the opposite side of the Sacer sensor from the board properly and solder the black lead in its place?

Without Vida I can't tell you either way however many of the older throttles lack output on one side. The blue/red and yellow/green wires report back to the ECM with voltages ranging from approximately 1.0V to 1.8V which varies upon throttle actuation.

You can remove the throttle and connect power via green (12V+) and brown (negative) leads. It will start for afew seconds then power down and allow you to move the throttle flap by hand. I'm pretty certain that the circuit still provides output to ECM via the 2 wire colours I spoke about above.

You'll need some test leads with shielded alligator clips going back to a meter so you can measure TPS1 and TPS2 outputs (and to help provide power). If you're certain you've soldered properly and the unit starts and does a self-test properly upon power-up and you have missing output on one of the wire colours I mentioned then it's time for another throttle.

[AhhShark]

Ok ill try that tomorrow. If it is shot I have two more Etms can I use these as long as I get the voltage right? Or do I just need to bite the bullet and send mine off to xemodorks

[precopster]

If you have Vida you can find out the Network state of the car and note down the 2 x software part numbers of each ETM after an Update of car parameters upon startup of Vida. Othwerwise the chances of a firmware matchup with those other 2 ETMs you have are very slim.

[markcapelja]

OK I guess you''ll be reading this when i'm dreaming sth near to the wife and the kid but ...
What we measure:

Direct link
Put your multimeter to reading 20V straight. Secure the black handle (hell i don't know the term in english) somewhere to the car's body (GND). Turn the кey to position "II" so that the unit got a power and measure the voltages on pins given in the picture.
Look my first measurements:

This is not good. Sacer was giving me 0.2V less, and the car was in limp home all the time.
For more info, find the post where I explain what "full close" "Normal off" and "full open means".
Good Luck


errrr I got a feeling you did NOT read the whole topic from the begining to the end, am I right? If yes, just do it. You won't loose so much time but I'm pretty sure you'll got answers at lest for the half of you questions (like what, how and why to measure).

hi i have just done the sacer mod, and i was checking the voltage. i came up with these firgures

position 1 close .64 / normal 1.42 / open 4.57
position 2 close .63 / normal 1.46 / open 4.63
position 3 close .54 / normal 1.33 / open 4.69

i was abit worried with the original position being lower at close and normal.
would this cause me any problems or should i rotate the magnet?

[precopster]

Anything above 1.55V and below 1.25V will prevent the ETM from initialising properly. You should be good to go with those voltages.

If you still get throttle codes scrap it and save the Sacer sensor for another ETM

I can reprogram any ETM to suit your car if you require it