98 V70/T5: RR Door Lock Actuator Internal Spring

Post by **sleddriver** » 09 Jul 2016, 12:30

I've already removed the PTC thermistor on the LR door, put it all back together, and it's working fine in the TX Summer HEAT again.

Did the same repair on the RR door Thurs. However, I used a Permatex non-hardening sealant instead of hot glue to seal the plastic motor/gear cover back into place. Left a spring clamp on it over night. Not up to the job. When trying the locks remotely, the cover popped up right over the motor, I heard the motor spin really fast (must have moved up away from the gear train) and somthing POP!

Pulled it out this morning, removed the cover and discovered the spring underneath the white gear that drives the mechanism is no longer attached to it's anchor on one end. Thus when the mechanism is actuated, there is no longer any return force to recenter it. No joy in attempting to remove the gear to get to the spring. It may not be possible.

FUBAR......

Any suggestions?

Post by **erikv11** » 09 Jul 2016, 13:53

I'm not following your description at all, simply because I don't know the anatomy of these actuators off the top of my head, without opening one up and looking at at while reading your description. But bottom line: it sounds like this is an uncommon failure part, would a junkyard actuator solve the problem?

Post by **sleddriver** » 09 Jul 2016, 15:11

Yes, it would. However, soon after posting I managed to pop the lower white gear free, exposing the coiled spring. The gear shaft is plastic and integral to the gear. The opposite side is keyed and fits into a white, plastic lever on the opposite side of the metal housing. This gear transmits all motor force to the lock actuator, then when it reaches its limit, power is removed via the small contact switch, the wound spring now takes over and forces both the motor & level to return to it's "resting position". At least I think that's how it works.

RPITA to get it back together however. Spent nearly 4 hrs on it?? Geeze, so much for my Saturday plans. I'll spare the details for now. I cleaned all the goo off with trichloroethane, glued the halves back together again with hot glue, clamped well, and it's currently in the 'frig cooling off so the HG will set quicker as it's 98°F in my garage!

I'm curious what others have used to glue the case top back with?

Post by **erikv11** » 09 Jul 2016, 15:54

LOL ok I see. I thought you really meant something was broken and FUBAR and wanted suggestions how to cobble together a reasonable replacement. Glad you got it fixed.

To seal the case back up I have used silicone sealant. I figure whatever you use, best if it is weatherproof.

What kind of hot glue do you have that doesn't get gooey when the doors get up to 110 F? I must have cheapo stuff; I stopped using it in the doors.

Post by **sleddriver** » 09 Jul 2016, 16:23

Just came back in to use the glue-gun on a busted open door red light that cracked. When I plugged in the door actuator, it didn't look right when testing. It's supposed to roll about +45°, return to rest, then rotate about -45°, then return to rest. Mine only rotates one way! %^$#!....all that work for naught. Rats.....

Using the wrong stuff sure screwed me up on this repair....caused all sorts of additional headaches, delays & wasted time.

The stuff I use is made by Surebonder. Should at least last to 110°. I'm betting inside the doors, down here, could easily reach 150°. It may not work.

So when you silicone one of these, you have to wait for it to cure overnight, then reinstall the lock? How do you keep the door closed if you want to use the car?

Post by **sleddriver** » 09 Jul 2016, 17:07

Well...you were right Erik.....the previous repair I did on the LR started acting up. Why? The HG joint failed right near motor! ^%&$!...there are times I just hate working on this car......there's always something in the way that needs to be removed, it's very hot & humid here this time of year, ownership has lately turned into a time black-hole....for months on end now. Just tired of it always being the car lately......

I pulled the LR door mech. to fix and have tied the door closed with rope. Looks like I'll have to do the same on the RR side....gggrrrrrrrrrrr.

/rant

So...what type of silicone sealant do you recommend?

I'm tempted to use Sonneborn NP1. It would take at least 24hrs to cure being urethane-based, but it would laugh at any heat & humidity thrown at it.

Post by **kahl** » 09 Jul 2016, 20:10

When I had my actuator apart I used an adhesive called CA. I get it at a hobby shop. It is used on most plastics. It comes in different thicknesses. I used the gap filling thickness. Quick setting and permanent. It would be tuff to remove the cover again.

Hey sled let me know if you need some of those internal parts.

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Jul 2016, 15:14

Pretty sure I used Permatex RTV black.

this stuff: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhes ... e-sealant/

Post by **sleddriver** » 10 Jul 2016, 16:18

Much thanks!

Post by **sleddriver** » 10 Jul 2016, 19:39

Before gluing up the working latch with silicone RTV, I compared the lower white gear action to the other (broken) one. The former is under considerably MORE tension and rotates both directions vs. the later. That means the gear might have to be rotated 360° before the end shaft key is inserted into the white plastic lever on the other side of the steel frame wall. And that would put a tremendous amount of torque on it to boot! Doesn't seem like that tiny plastic piece is up to that to me.

Now I'm curious how in the heck they assembled that part of the mechanism?? I had a hard enough time rotating it 90°CCW, much less 360° without it flying across the room....or into my face!

RSPI mentioned he taped his back together while the adhesive set. I couldn't see a clear way to wrap it tightly, so it's on the bench with several spring clamps holding it secure while the RTV cures.

When I pull the other latch, I'll add a few photos to clarify what I'm talking about here.