1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

[5rivers]

A quick update:
The re-manufactured alternator does have two brushes, but only has one copper clip that meets the regulator and is attached to the rectifier. My bad on that description. I was reluctant to start the car not having heard from anyone on this site...but about an hour ago, I got in the car and was half expecting the car to not turn over when I inserted and turned the key....but, the darn thing started!!!! And no noise at all from the alternator! I poured in just over half a bottle of the liquid aluminum after starting the car, and two hours later, after wiping the area dry, the leaks have not returned. How about that! I will drive the car around the block a few times and report back. Keep your fingers crossed!

[5rivers]

Well, I am back...and so is the radiator leak! Bummer. But on the bright side, the car did not stall out! It did not overheat (just yet!), and it told me it needs new rotors and pads, ouch! No surprise on the last set of items, since the car has sat since a year ago this past April. And I thought this repair would only take a few months.

A few words of advice: if you take your time on repairs, and you are about to tackle a large project like I have attempted, then by all means, put the car up on blocks, take off the tires, rotors and pads especially if they are relatively new. You will save yourself a few hundred bucks or more. While you're at it, might as well take off the timing belts, water pump, alternator, and starter and store them in a cool dry spot. Oh, and don't forget about the battery! I left all of those items on/in the car outside in Central NY weather thinking this will only take me a few more weeks. But, months went by and by and by (16 to be precise). Now, I will need to price new rotors, pads, and shoes; and start looking for a decent radiator ('98 V70, base, fwd, 2.5l, non-turbo, manual transmission - just in case you have one that needs a home!). I will practically have a brand new car, sans the lower part of the motor! I did look under the car, but you really don't want to know about the exhaust system, fuel tank and filter, or the tie rod ends!! Washing the car seems like a good distraction about now!

Thank goodness for the local pick 'n pull and this website! Appreciate all your help, words of advice, sympathies, and encouragement! I could not have attempted any of this without the DIY tutorials on head gasket and cylinder head repairs, other's similar experiences, approaches, methods, pictures, etc., Robert's videos, my neighbors unconditional help when I!!! All for now!

[5rivers]

A few pics:

Alternator shaft

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Alternator shaft different view

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Voltage regulator and brushes

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Stay tuned for short video of the car running!

[MadeInJapan]

I get some of what you are saying but how can pads and rotors be ruined by sitting for 16 months? I might be inclined to take the calipers loose, re-grease and go from there- might even bleed the brakes and exchange the brake fluid. Also, the timing belt should be okay- the engine bay gets hot and stays that way while operating. 16 months even in NY winter and summer should be okay. Now, if we were talking 7 years, then yeah! Putting the car on blocks makes sense to keep flat spots from developing...and the battery, yes- or on a solar or trickle charger.

Good job so far and nice pictures!!

[abscate]

Take those rotors off and have them turned in a sympathetic shop. Should get them done for 5o bucks or so.

Take some pix so we can see how bad they are...they might just need polishing up rather than replacement

[clifford06]

Greetings. 5rivers , I truly respect your dedication to this project. My car sat for 13 months before its "rebirth". You are correct about rotors and pads. My rotors never cleared of the corrosion / rust , even after bleed and flush. Luckily, NAPA has a 30% off before 9am every second Saturday of the month sale. I think I got front rotors under $30. Good luck.

[5rivers]

Greetings! Thanks clifford06!! After sitting for so long, the water pump had white flaky residue inside of it and some rust, the bushings on the front tie rods cracked (and these were relatively new), both the starter and alternator were caked with white corrosive powder at the bolt connections, the belts were loose but where they made contact with the pulleys had rust on them; all those required extra cleaning or replacement. I probably should have drained the fuel tank but did not have enough proper containers to store the fuel. Anyway, just a listing of what my car experienced. The above pics are upside down - sorry about that.
Have not had a chance to do anything with the rotors/drums. But, will post a few pics of those. I still need to remove the axle nut on the driver's side to replace a torn CV boot. But the axle nut just won't budge, even with heat - cracked my breaker bar, and have had to replace two craftsman half inch ratchets. Might have to grind part of the nut off.
I had my car running the other day after another jump start (still checking for radiator leaks), but now when I turn the key all I hear is a click - starter, maybe?

[5rivers]

drum

back of rotor

front of rotor

No major nicks or gouges, just surface rust and spots where the rotors/pads sat!
Wonder what a grinder will do??!!

[abscate]

Try polishing those with some coarse sandpaper and then test brake action. I think you will be ok after a few hundred miles of hilly driving. If I'm driving by soon I'll bring my 3/4 bar and BFWG

[oragex]

Try polishing those with some coarse sandpaper and then test brake action. I think you will be ok after a few hundred miles of hilly driving. If I'm driving by soon I'll bring my 3/4 bar and BFWG

+1 coarse sand paper is your friend, don't be afraid about 'scratching the surface, give some love to those pads too. Same for the brake shoes friction surface.