Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved
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Delta Link Repair DIY
- RussB
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Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement
What is a rear top strut bearing? Are we still talking about 850's & C/S/V70's?
'00 S70, '04 S60 and the never ending quest for Stage Zero
- abscate
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Shock absorber mount at rear, sorry. If it's really messed up, it could screw up camber
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- abscate
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If springs are visibly broken they could mess up camber. My 1999 springs were so compressed I had lost 38mm of ride height, but Camber and tire wear were normal. I think the spring axis is parallel to the camber angle pretty much.
Get the back end up safely on jack stands and start prying and looking for looseness
Delta links and torsion bar mounts are the usual culprits
Get the back end up safely on jack stands and start prying and looking for looseness
Delta links and torsion bar mounts are the usual culprits
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- Chuck W
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Popping this back up.
I have a '96 850 and I think these guys are the source of my clunking on the right rear of my 850. (Other pieces are all new).
Reading through all the ideas on removal, here and elsewhere, gives me ideas on getting them out. (The re-purposed MacPherson tool is a good idea)
Has anyone tried to use an air chisel to remove them? I would think a little heat and angry application of an air chisel should free them from the delta links.
I have a '96 850 and I think these guys are the source of my clunking on the right rear of my 850. (Other pieces are all new).
Reading through all the ideas on removal, here and elsewhere, gives me ideas on getting them out. (The re-purposed MacPherson tool is a good idea)
Has anyone tried to use an air chisel to remove them? I would think a little heat and angry application of an air chisel should free them from the delta links.
Last edited by Chuck W on 26 Jul 2016, 06:52, edited 1 time in total.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
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LOB
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If you (or my FORMER mechanics) put the right hand delta-link mount on the left side (and vice versa) you wil also end upp with camber problems...abscate wrote:Camber problems in the rear are either the delta link or the top strut bearing. Other than bent parts like the axle stub , there's nothing else.
The delta link job is a struggle but USE HEAT....it really makes it simpler.
I just did the LR delta link on my new-to-me '99 V70. I had a little wander still left after replacing the RF ball joint, 'didn't think much about it. I was tightening my LR wheel when the hub moved aft 1/2" !!WTF! After reading up on the delta link, I thought about buying the special tool (and then reselling it) or making one (w/welder). Then I read this.
I don't have a come-long but a do have a winch; 8000lb hydraulic on the front of my Jeep.
I secured the control arm to a stout tree (chain and straps), jacked up the side of the V70 from clearance, and "retrieved" the bad link straight out of the arm. No heat needed. Not much fanfare but it did take a bit of force (pull). I did plan of filming it for laughs but the winch was being uncooperative so there was a time crunch.
I quick test verified the new delta link wasn't gonna "slip in" either. So I spent a good amount of time cleaning out the arm with a few files. It still need to be persuaded, but it was nothing an old extension and a stout hammer couldn't handle.
I don't have a come-long but a do have a winch; 8000lb hydraulic on the front of my Jeep.
I quick test verified the new delta link wasn't gonna "slip in" either. So I spent a good amount of time cleaning out the arm with a few files. It still need to be persuaded, but it was nothing an old extension and a stout hammer couldn't handle.
- theWIFES_S70
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Would've loved to see that video!!!DanZ51 wrote:I just did the LR delta link on my new-to-me '99 V70. I had a little wander still left after replacing the RF ball joint, 'didn't think much about it. I was tightening my LR wheel when the hub moved aft 1/2" !!WTF! After reading up on the delta link, I thought about buying the special tool (and then reselling it) or making one (w/welder). Then I read this.
I don't have a come-long but a do have a winch; 8000lb hydraulic on the front of my Jeep.I secured the control arm to a stout tree (chain and straps), jacked up the side of the V70 from clearance, and "retrieved" the bad link straight out of the arm. No heat needed. Not much fanfare but it did take a bit of force (pull). I did plan of filming it for laughs but the winch was being uncooperative so there was a time crunch.
I quick test verified the new delta link wasn't gonna "slip in" either. So I spent a good amount of time cleaning out the arm with a few files. It still need to be persuaded, but it was nothing an old extension and a stout hammer couldn't handle.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
- Chuck W
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I wound up using the modded MacPherson spring compressor (had an old one that I need to replace, so I didn't worry much about hacking it up).
It was kind of tedious, but that and a little heat got the old one out.
Getting the new one in was a huge PITA. It took an extra set of hands to get things lined up and installing properly. The new outer retainer for the end of the link was larger than the hole it was meant for. I used the modded tool to press it back in, but I had to stop a couple times to re-align it, as it was pressing in crooked.
It was kind of tedious, but that and a little heat got the old one out.
Getting the new one in was a huge PITA. It took an extra set of hands to get things lined up and installing properly. The new outer retainer for the end of the link was larger than the hole it was meant for. I used the modded tool to press it back in, but I had to stop a couple times to re-align it, as it was pressing in crooked.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
Just received end link and upon inspection one end of the link is about 1/4 inch longer than the other. This is the end that is bolts to the chassis. Just need to know if it matters which way it is bolted to the car. Looking at some of the pictures it seems the the longer part is at the top.
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