I found an unicorn ECU that will work with both Manual and Auto 850 turbo.

Post by **tryingbe** » 30 Jul 2016, 21:12

I found 627 Euro Spec 850 R calibration that will work with 850 Turbo with automatic transmission, as well as a 850 turbo with a manual transmission with no check engine light (CEL)!

Long time ago, after physically deleting the EGR system out of my stock 94 850 turbo, I needed a non EGR ECU so the check engine light would not come on. I waited for a 96 R ECU, but they were expensive and rare. I settled for a 96 Turbo ECU.

Then, I cracked open the 94 ECU, peeled back the sticker and took note of the chip numbers. Intel 28F512. I wondered if I can put a socket on the ecu and make it work with the car. So I put a socket on it, then I bought a burner and a chip, put the calibration file on the chip and the car started with it! I I tried a few different calibration files. Some would allow the car to start, then only to die immediately, other worked ok, but the 627 worked the best (R boost level). I also had no issue of getting the OBDI codes out of the diagnostic port and no issue passing emission, so I keep the 627 and used it for years.

And I made a few socketed ECU to sell for profit.

Fast forwarded to last December, I finished putting in the manual transmission in my car. With every manual swap page I see, I read that you can use an automatic ECU, but the CEL would be on after a few.

I waited, and waited, and waited, but my CEL engine light never came on!

Strange, I thought. I was parting a T5-R at that time, so I put in the 628 ECU in my car. Sure enough, after several minutes of driving, CEL came on.
So I put the 627 back in and kept driving the car.

I kept reading people were happier with the manual calibration than their auto calibration after their manual swap, so I tried the manual calibration and I HATED it! Let me explain: with the 627 auto ECU, when I step on the clutch to up-shift, engine RPM would immediately drop and by the time I finished my quick up-shift, the engine RPM would be rev matching the transmission speed perfectly to do a smooth up-shift. With the manual calibration, when I step on the clutch, engine RPM would hold in place for .25-.5 second before dropping, it's useless for downshift since it isn't enough RPM, and made my quick up-shift abrupt since there is now 500-700 rev difference between the engine and transmission that the clutch have to take up. I tried to adjust my driving style and make my shifting time slow, and I just can't. So I'm back with the 627 R ecu.

I now have the ability to flash the 627 bin file directly into the ecu , so if anyone with manual swapped 94-95 car wants the 627 R ecu, I can make it happen for the cost of my core ecu and shipping, which is $45 shipped to your door. If you want to send your ecu back to me, I'll refund you $25.

Note, although this 627 ecu will physically work in a 96-97 850, you can not pass emission with it if your state require OBDII ready status to pass emission because there is no OBDII communication with this ecu. Your best bet would be a 1998 Motronic 4.4 ECU off a S70/V70/C70/V70 XC turbo calibrated for your injectors and with the software a/c mod installed.

No, I do not tune cars for people. I just put the stock 627 bin file into the ecu.
If you want to socket or flash the ecu yourself, here the bin file. http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/bi ... 358234.zip

Hope this information will help someone out there.

kaneelschep · Post by **kaneelschep** » 03 Aug 2016, 11:24

interesting read
I have a manual 2litre t5 and since I got it, I was wondering about the revs hanging when pushing the clutch. I was very used to it just dropping fast on all my previous cars. I guess here in the eu most of these older small engines do that.
Almost thought it was a problem in the intake somewhere.
What is the idea behind it anyway? besides reducing clutch life..

Post by **abscate** » 03 Aug 2016, 11:56

Ive found when you run MAF_less, and the engine is on the default lookup table, the whole rev/shift pattern is changed so much I feel like Im learning to drive stick again.

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 03 Aug 2016, 16:56

The idea is probably to anticipate a downshift rather than an up shift, and facilitate engin braking. Engine braking is far safer on slippery roads than applying brakes, since the danger of locking the wheels is non existent. Even an ABS system can cause a loss of traction. First commandment when driving on icy roads is to never touch the brakes unless you absolutely have to - so keeping revs high in anticipation of a downshift and a soft transition to engine braking is one of the best ideas ever. Though I've yet to meet an American who knows how to do it.

Flame on!

- S

kaneelschep · Post by **kaneelschep** » 04 Aug 2016, 05:03

Ok. Good thoughts

But since the manual, to me seems more of a Euro spec anyways, I would think we europeans are quite practised in clutch control and would not need this all the time. So it could maybe have had a switch. Like on an automatic cars for icy conditions.
I am sure if I let my mom, who is quite on/off on the clutch, ride my car she will have a very nasty ride because of this.
That being said, it was a car made for a country with quite round the year slippery conditions. So its understandable.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Aug 2016, 05:16

You are definitely shiftier characters in Europe. I wonder how Google translate will handle that phrase?

I think our percent of automatics in the U.S. is about 98% now. We can't even order most cars in standard transmissions anymore. I like them in the snowy northeast for the control in winter. My T5 with four deep snow tires will go anywhere.

And, for my Norwegian friend, the locking pawl on the automatics in Park is why 95% of US drivers don't even know they have an e-brake.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 04 Aug 2016, 17:07

Just to clarify, this ECU will work fine in my manual swapped T5R (1995), OBD1 and 2 will work normally, and it'll pass inspection?

Post by **tryingbe** » 04 Aug 2016, 18:29

Yes 627 ECU will work fine with your manual swapped car. No idea on PA emission test but assuming you're doing a rolling dyno test, your 95 will pass fine, if all your hardware works correctly(o2 sensors, catalytic converter, vacuum hoses, etc) . I passed AZ rolling dyno tailpipe emission just fine.

To sum up.
627 ECU works on both stock auto and manual swapped car with no CEL light.
R spec boost level
OBD I codes work.
OBD II codes does NOT work. (no passing emission with this ecu for 96 or 97)
No EGR
No SAS
Throttle drops immediately when change gears with manual trans.

gaasbox · Post by **gaasbox** » 18 Mar 2020, 07:35

how can i make a flash module to connect straight to the computer?
ive only once seen a similar one like the one you have in one of the pics but the guy didnt want to share any of the schematics or instructions on how to connect it

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Mar 2020, 08:16

Everything you need to know for connecting a flash module is here: https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/M44_Wiki

In the picture, he has harvested the connector base from the ECU box of a junkyard car. I have mine set up the same way, it is very convenient for ensuring you have the proper ECU pins well connected.