Oil pan damage 97 850 NA

[scot850]

Thanks covert, kippster and oragex. All good and helpful input.

I will try some of the ATP ST-205 gasket and seal re-conditioner and see if that will help for the moment so that I can get the car running without any major or hopefully minor oil leaks to get some mileage under the wheels and also find if there are any more nasty surprises.

Really appreciate all the help from everyone!

Neil.

[LOB]

I changed my oil pan without lifting the engine. I used straps to bend the servo oil-pipes away and above the edge of the subframe. I did not disconect the steering servo oil pipes from the mounting-rack, just the three clamps holding the pipes. My car has 80k miles and my motor bushings might be less deformed/ compressed than on a 20k miles car but I found the operation quite easy. After instaling a protection plate (volvo: 9451954) I guess I never have to do that job again...

Looking at "Coverts" oil pan i wonder how many miles/ km that motor has? Do you use mineral oil? My oil pan looked new (albeit cracked) after 20 years 80k miles, though with oil changed (synthetic) every 500 miles.

[beigg]

I've ran across a thought to be a severe repair job to conclude whom ever did the oil changes did not remove the old washer and double stacked on another washer.
Client was very relieved yet frustrated with the findings.

That being said, changing the oil pan isnt hard. You have to remove the ps mount, cooler block from sump (pan) & unfasten the power steering lines from there associated brackes as there's one up by the oil cooler lines and dipstick as well as the lower cradel and any retaining points. Swing them out of the way affixing the lines out of the working zone (zipties) . Undo the trans torque mount and engine torque mount. Using a bottle jack and block of wood, lift the engine up from the rear engine mount bracket.

Should be a straight forward job from there.

[E Showell]

If you end up having to pull the oil pan Al told me this evening that the keystone fit issue can be tackled by jacking up the engine on the driver, not passenger side. Jacking from the driver side gives you the angle you need to slide the pan out. If you opt for removing the pan, spend a bit of time cleaning it with Purple Power (works great), but you have to rinse it off with water because it is essentially and acid that will wreck aluminum if you allow it to sit for too long. Especially avoid soaking aluminum parts in it.

[erikv11]

... changing the oil pan isnt hard. You have to remove the ps mount, cooler block from sump (pan) & unfasten the power steering lines from there associated brackes as there's one up by the oil cooler lines and dipstick as well as the lower cradel and any retaining points. Swing them out of the way affixing the lines out of the working zone (zipties) . Undo the trans torque mount and engine torque mount. Using a bottle jack and block of wood, lift the engine up from the rear engine mount bracket.

Should be a straight forward job from there.

Hmmmmm. You're in Michigan, and you think releasing and swinging the PS lines out of the way isn't a hassle? Even here in Iowa they can be horribly rusted on an aging P80 car, I can't imagine what you would run into up there.

I know a lot of people have done this job and come out OK, I just hope I don't need to. I'm running out of enthusiasm for time on my back under the car. Maybe I'm spoiled, I've done it three times but always the engine was already out of the car. Even got to do it twice on the same engine, because somebody cracked the corner of the pan before the engine was installed (shhhh ...).

[scot850]

I'm still hoping I don't need to. I haven't had time to run the car since I filled it with oil, but early static test shows no leak so far at the oil pan. Still may be leaking higher up in the join between the main block and lower crankcase.

Bought some ATP ST-205 today to add to the engine oil once I get a chance to run it for a while.

Thanks again for all the input.

Neil.

[Covert]

I changed my oil pan without lifting the engine. I used straps to bend the servo oil-pipes away and above the edge of the subframe. I did not disconect the steering servo oil pipes from the mounting-rack, just the three clamps holding the pipes. My car has 80k miles and my motor bushings might be less deformed/ compressed than on a 20k miles car but I found the operation quite easy. After instaling a protection plate (volvo: 9451954) I guess I never have to do that job again...

Looking at "Coverts" oil pan i wonder how many miles/ km that motor has? Do you use mineral oil? My oil pan looked new (albeit cracked) after 20 years 80k miles, though with oil changed (synthetic) every 500 miles.

My engine hasn't been treated nicely, it's on 201k , and I doubt it's had many oil changes in that time which is why I pulled the pan as there is no way of cleaning it out with it on . Basically it's baked on carbon from the oil . Sodium hydroxide takes it off well as long as you don't leave it on too long!

[abscate]

Had a look at your oil pan in the photobucket album. That's not too bad covert. Needs cleaning but for 200k I've seen much worse

[MadeInJapan]

I have a ton of shorter drain (OEM Volvo) plugs if you need one, Neil.

It seems to me that there was also a write-up some time ago on Bay-13 regarding the oil pan which wasn't flush with the drain plug and how to sand it at that location to get it true. I don't know if that's your issue but if it is off by to much of an angle, no matter how much the plug is tightened, you'll drip there.

[beigg]

if it is off by to much of an angle, no matter how much the plug is tightened, you'll drip there.

If it doesn't 'pull' the casting or threads prior to achieving the imposed German torque spec!