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98 S70, N/A Subframe bushings job

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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theWIFES_S70
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
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98 S70, N/A Subframe bushings job

Post by theWIFES_S70 »

Oh man, this is not an easy job. Lot of pushing, hammering, prying and pinching of your fingers with pliers... All while lying on your back! And still it didn't come out. I'm thinking I'm like 21% of the way towards replacing this one subframe bushing. Now I know why it's easier to do this if you drop the subframe all the way. I've been drilling holes into the bushing. I'm thinking of getting a small circular hole attachment (like for cutting through doors) tonight. It better not be expensive!

Bolt came off without any incident. Wondering though, should it be lubed up like this? This means the subframe has been dropped for some reason or another, no? (It sucks not having the previous work history done on a car.) But, grease doesn't have loctite-like qualities! I don't have any red Loctite. Blue is alright for this job, right?
subframe_bushing1.jpg
This bushing wasn't in horrible condition. But the washer was all warped and all the space!
subframe_bushing2.jpg
Expect to see significantly more rubber pieces tomorrow! (Or the day after, or the day after that, or the day after that...)
subframe_bushing3.jpg
Don't shoot me guys, but I might just shove the poly inserts into the back ones, replace the plate and call it a night... Though, with my luck, those are probably the ones in horrible condition. More later.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

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theWIFES_S70
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

Finally got ONE bushing out. And ONE bushing in. Holy smokes, it takes a lot of elbow grease.

Steps I took:
1. Hammered off the top.
2. Drilled out the center metal piece. (I used a Dremel with a cutting attachment and a small cordless drill to make holes all around.)
3. Shoved a small screwdriver in between the frame and the bushing and cracked the plastic.
4. Removed the remnants...

First one took two days. The second one took an hour! :D

Here's the bushing I installed on the front right. Double the Proparts, double the fun! NOTE: If you are going to double-up your bushings... make sure you install the insert before you install the bushing into the subframe. It should look beautiful, like this. See below for what happens if you do not do this. EDIT: You will not be able to get a Proparts insert into the new Proparts bushing, the ones with a circular hole rather than the oval hole. I tried. I lubed it up. I wailed on it. I shaved it down. I stabbed it. I tried to squeeze it in there with a jacks. I cut it apart. Nothing...
subframe_bushing_double_pro.jpg
Installation steps:
I lightly lubed the bushing (Motul synthentic grease) and tapped it with a mallet to get it started. Then I did the socket trick. I didn't think it worked at first. I thought it would go in easily. But you really have to crank that jack up, and let it do it's thing. If you're doing this on the ground, you'll have to jack it high enough to take the wheel off the ground two inches at least. Go slow, and make sure you reposition your jack and sockets so you don't break anything. I think you'd have to be really misaligned to break anything... These things are pretty strong.
subframe_bushing5.jpg
The passenger side bushing. Not in horrible condition. But the washer was all warped and if you look closely, many, many cracks in the rubber! Like I mentioned above. I was able to pop this one out in less than an hour.
subframe_bushing_R.jpg
Double the Proparts FAIL I don't know how to get this freaking thing in... I know, I know, I know. It's not designed for new bushings. But it did go in the other and it looks great. Doesn't anyone know how to get this in. I spent the day wailing on it with an hammer, trying to run it up with the washer, with my piece of wood with sockets, nothing works. I even tried saying, "F this," and just started to run the washer down. But then it started bumping up against the teeth and deforming them! :evil:

I'm thinking if I can't get it up there. I'll just cut it off and caulk it up to idiocy on my part. But at least I can move along. Any ideas guys?
subframe_bushing_proparts_f.jpg
Last edited by theWIFES_S70 on 05 Aug 2016, 17:16, edited 2 times in total.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

User avatar
theWIFES_S70
Posts: 1218
Joined: 24 July 2015
Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
Location: Queens, New York
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

The Proparts inserts do not fit into new Proparts subframe bushings.

They do fit into the OVAL Proparts subframe bushings.

The Proparts inserts wouldn't fit into my old rear subframe bushings either. I shaved them down, cut them down and they still wouldn't fit. After two days of this I said, F, it.

Sigh.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

User avatar
theWIFES_S70
Posts: 1218
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
Location: Queens, New York
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

So, clunks haven't disappeared... I know my sway bar (or bushings) need replacing.

But this, what the heck is this?!?!@#

My subframe bushings need to be replaced after less than a 1k? Look at how they compressed against the frame? I put the right torque on them. I used Loctite... :cry: Approximately $60 for Proparts Bushings + Proparts Inserts (of which only one fit)... What a way to throw money down the tubes.
PPARTS_subframe_bushing-_R.jpg
PPARTS_subframe_bushing-_L.jpg
Do not install these.

The oldest, most rotted-out OEM bushing would be better than a new Proparts one. I need to get these replaced ASAP before I end up deforming the engine cradle. What a way to waste hours...

I should've listened to the wise...
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

tryingbe
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Post by tryingbe »

I only use Volvo OE or better parts, initial cost would be higher, but well worth the money for the long run.
85 GLH, 367 whp
00 Insight, 72 mpg

User avatar
theWIFES_S70
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

Lesson learned, tryingbe. Lesson learned. I think you were trying to steer me in the right direction...

Everything ProParts has burned me:
- transmission mount, tore within 10 months ($21)
- upper torque mount (that came with bracket), doesn't hold the Proparts or the Lemforder bushings I have, my engine slips around like crazy... ($25)
- subframe bushings are shot... They look like they're missing rubber. Proparts inserts didn't fit at all. ($60

$100 bucks down the tubes... I honestly approached these Proparts pieces thinking, well, I know they won't last 18 years. Maybe we'll get 4 years... What a joke

So bummed about this.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

zhenya
Posts: 588
Joined: 15 February 2008
Year and Model: 97 855 T5,98 V70 AWD
Location: Ithaca, NY

Post by zhenya »

ugh. definitely not the job to be using sub-par parts on.

I just did mine on the 850 replaced with delrin bushings. Fortunately I had a lift to work on, but it was still a PITA. The first one took us an hour to remove. The next three took about 5 minutes each. Delrin ones went in fairly easily and the improvement to road feel, steering response, and even ride quality was massive. Probably the best money I've spent on handling on this car after the IPD sways - and this may be even better than those. Definitely a bit more vibration at idle though.

If you do it again, our method to remove the old bushings was to use a ~3/8" drill bit and drill 4 holes around the outer circumference of the bushing, making sure to go mostly through the outer plastic. I then used a large screwdriver as a pry bar and was able to just pop it out. First one I did I tried for way too long with a hole saw which was a useless endeavor. Maybe if I'd had one a bit larger it would have gotten into the plastic and done the job easily, but if you're just drilling rubber it's not worth the effort.

jantt
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Post by jantt »

I did it this way :

To get the one out I cut two slides with electric saw and then it was easy to hammer out.

To get the new one in I put a metal bushing between frame and body so the frame not is close up.
Line the new bushing up to hole in frame and big washer to bushing and and then the bolt in hole.
Then you take air hammer and the bolt will draw bushing into frame.
Takes no time :)

zhenya
Posts: 588
Joined: 15 February 2008
Year and Model: 97 855 T5,98 V70 AWD
Location: Ithaca, NY

Post by zhenya »

We tried the electric saw after struggling with the first one, but found the drill method much easier in the end. I did basically the same thing with the delrin bushings, letting the screw and washer and impact driver do most of the work. We went slowly and used a hammer as necessary to keep the bushing going in square.

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theWIFES_S70
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

This is the job that keeps on giving...

Headaches, shoulder pains, sore wrists... I wanna see Baby Boy Ben tackle a job like this in fifteen minutes and put it up on Youtube! :lol:

Just so you all know: Subframe bushing bolt (Genuine Volvo 985111) is significantly shorter than the original (18 y/o) one! Unless this is a crazy example of stretch...
xc90_proparts_subframebushi.jpg
Here is a new XC90 subframe bushing up against a new Proparts one and the one I ripped out today. The XC90 one seems a hell of a lot taller. (Especially considering bushings are all about their mm...) Just to reiterate: I hate Proparts, here's some proof as to why you shouldn't buy their subframe bushings.
new_subframe_bushing_bolts.jpg
new_subframe_bushing_bolts.jpg (36.24 KiB) Viewed 4799 times
It's been hard to steal days to work on our car lately... And winter is coming... Wish me luck guys.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

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