Opinions on using full synthetic oil in a high milage engine Topic is solved

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Aug 2016, 10:39

All of my P80 cars get switched to Rotella T6 5W-40 when I buy them, regardless of mileage.

Oh, but first I fix the PCV. I basically won't drive one with a bad PCV, unless I really must.

Post by **dyn blin** » 29 Aug 2016, 11:33

We've switched to synthetic formulations at this house for every one of the last 5 "acquisitions", turbo or naturally aspirated, & almost all with over 100k on the odometer. Most synthetic formulations have an option for "high mileage" engines that contain targeted detergents and seal conditioners. Although these won't reverse the worst prior neglect, they will often reduce leaks and oil consumption.

For anything with a turbo, I personally wouldn't keep a non-synthetic in the rotation. Synthetic formulations' resistance to heat, mechanical shearing, coking and its filming qualities make it a easy choice for those engines.

One thing I've personally noticed is that during the initial switch over- the detergents in all synthetics will loosen sludge accumulations. I make the first change at 1500 miles and cut open the filter to see what's accumulating. If it's substantial, I'll make the 2nd change at 2500 more. After that point, it always appears to normalize and I move on to a "normal" OCI.

Make that PCV service at the top of the priority list.

Post by **tryingbe** » 30 Aug 2016, 08:04

I used Blackstone Labs to analyze my used oil, only real way to tell if the oil is still good. I use AMSoil OE synthetic, I get it for less than $4.5 a quart.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Aug 2016, 10:27

Ive been pre-running my oil in superior German steel to leach the German steel molecules and have them stick to the Swedish bearings and lengthen life.

Thats what I read to do on the Internet and Im sticking with it.

zhenya · Post by **zhenya** » 30 Aug 2016, 10:40

Hey, it works for aging Scotch. Similar rules must apply for automobiles right?

Post by **dyn blin** » 30 Aug 2016, 11:08

abscate wrote:Ive been pre-running my oil in superior German steel to leach the German steel molecules and have them stick to the Swedish bearings and lengthen life.

Thats what I read to do on the Internet and Im sticking with it.

Ah, the venerable Henway Process.

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 30 Aug 2016, 11:57

abscate wrote:Ive been pre-running my oil in superior German steel to leach the German steel molecules and have them stick to the Swedish bearings and lengthen life.

Thats what I read to do on the Internet and Im sticking with it.

For a small fee, you can send your oil to me during the winter, and I will place it in real, arctic conditions for up to 48 hours. This will allow for a much more sub-zero accepting engine, since those are the conditions that Volvos are built in. PM me for a very reasonable quote.

- S

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 30 Aug 2016, 20:53

tryingbe wrote:I used Blackstone Labs...

How do you mail yours out? I have a sample waiting to go I just haven't gotten around to sending it. Do you just put it in a box from the post office?

Post by **tryingbe** » 30 Aug 2016, 21:11

polskamafia mjl wrote:
tryingbe wrote:I used Blackstone Labs...
How do you mail yours out? I have a sample waiting to go I just haven't gotten around to sending it. Do you just put it in a box from the post office?

You fill out the form and they'll mail you a kit for free.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 30 Aug 2016, 21:31

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I've already gotten to that point, I have the plastic container filled up and everything.

I just need to know how to mail this:

Will the post office let me slap a stamp on that and mail it?

Opinions on using full synthetic oil in a high milage engine Topic is solved

Re: Opinions on using full synthetic oil in a high milage engine