I'm going to look at some used cv axles tomorrow and really have no idea what I'm looking for. I buy parts from a guy who buys wrecked volvos and he stockpiles the old parts. He told me that he has plenty of old axles but I would have to sort through the pile.
The best case scenario would be to find axles that just need to be cleaned up, re-greased and rebooted. I'm pretty sure the people at the salvage place can point me to axles that are correct for my car. But, I don't know how to tell if a part is partially worn or worn out or is in like new condition. Someone in another thread about a month ago said to check the axle for play but I have no idea how to do that or what that means. Are we talking about longitudinal play at the joint, rotational play, lateral play (shear), all of those or exactly what?
Picking a used 98 v70 cv axle - How to choose a good one
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cn90
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1. Make sure you buy the GKN-Lobro or Volvo factory axle.
The machining and finish is much better than aftermarket stuff.
2. To test for play, you need to look up how an axle is designed (the engineering perspective).
Basically it slides in and out along the length of axle: that is normal.
The ball cage allows the axle to spin in different angles, and yet power is still transferred to the wheels.
To test for "play", which means radial play or rotational play, hold the shaft with one hand and rotate the outer edge and listen carefully if you hear any click.
If you do, then move on to the next.
Best is to remove your existing axle first, bring it to the yard and compare everything, from # splines to shaft lengths etc. etc.
You should watch this video checking for play:
The machining and finish is much better than aftermarket stuff.
2. To test for play, you need to look up how an axle is designed (the engineering perspective).
Basically it slides in and out along the length of axle: that is normal.
The ball cage allows the axle to spin in different angles, and yet power is still transferred to the wheels.
To test for "play", which means radial play or rotational play, hold the shaft with one hand and rotate the outer edge and listen carefully if you hear any click.
If you do, then move on to the next.
Best is to remove your existing axle first, bring it to the yard and compare everything, from # splines to shaft lengths etc. etc.
You should watch this video checking for play:
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98v70dad
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Thanks for the video. I have a removed drivers side axle but it is aftermarket. I plan to take it with me anyhow as a reference.
I'm not sure how to ID a GKN-lobto or oe volvo axle, but I'm pretty sure that the guy at the salvage place will know. If there are obvious visual clues please tell me.
The salvage guy has been in business since 1977 and knows all the parts by sight. I have gone in asking for something by part number and he says - I dont do part numbers what do you need? I've been shopping there for 8 years and I've only gotten the wrong part once. His record is much better than the volvo dealer.
I'm not sure how to ID a GKN-lobto or oe volvo axle, but I'm pretty sure that the guy at the salvage place will know. If there are obvious visual clues please tell me.
The salvage guy has been in business since 1977 and knows all the parts by sight. I have gone in asking for something by part number and he says - I dont do part numbers what do you need? I've been shopping there for 8 years and I've only gotten the wrong part once. His record is much better than the volvo dealer.
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cn90
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Don't forget to check the sealing surface: the exact spot where the axle rotates around the inner lip of the seal.
If that surface is scratched, you WILL get an ATF leak.
If that surface is scratched, you WILL get an ATF leak.
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98v70dad
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The rebuilt axle I bought from axles unlimited had a big pit on the sealing surface. I moved the seal a little bit outboard to miss the pit and the leak completely stopped. That said, I didn't want to deal with sending the part back and I count myself very lucky that I was able to compensate for what was clearly a poorly overhauled part. The guy at my salvage place told me that he would sell me a core for $10.00. So having an original part available for both sides in case I need it is worth the 20 for me. Also, a pitted sealing surface on the re-manufactured part I bought doesn't give me any confidence that it will last.cn90 wrote:Don't forget to check the sealing surface: the exact spot where the axle rotates around the inner lip of the seal.
If that surface is scratched, you WILL get an ATF leak.
- erikv11
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On at least two of the Volvos that have come through my stable, it still had the little white Volvo sticker on it, with part number. Look for it, it is (obviously I know!) your nest indicator.
An OEM axle will have no rust on the shaft, probably no external rust anywhere'. Also look at the "can: that surrounds the inner CV for rust, pitting and quality. Hopefully you get enough water and rust there to be able to tell, it is obvious here the aftermarket ones look like crap after a year or two. Also, the CV boot will be thick and obviously good quality, even if cracked and/or 20 years old, on an OEM axe.
An OEM axle will have no rust on the shaft, probably no external rust anywhere'. Also look at the "can: that surrounds the inner CV for rust, pitting and quality. Hopefully you get enough water and rust there to be able to tell, it is obvious here the aftermarket ones look like crap after a year or two. Also, the CV boot will be thick and obviously good quality, even if cracked and/or 20 years old, on an OEM axe.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
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'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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98v70dad
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I'm declaring victory on the axle issue. I got one for each side and both have no play (zero) in them. Both are actually serviceable since the boots don't have any tears. I bought them in case I need them since the passenger side axle is getting old and I have a high speed vibration problem I haven't been able to figure out. I'm wondering if I should just clean them up, re-grease and reboot or is an overhaul a better idea?
Oh ... and the best part of the whole story is I paid 10 dollars each.
Oh ... and the best part of the whole story is I paid 10 dollars each.
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Ozark Lee
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If they otherwise look and feel good I would just reboot and re-grease them as necessary. The less you mess with them the better off you will be.
Unless you can get Marty to do the rebuild then just roll with them.
...Lee
Unless you can get Marty to do the rebuild then just roll with them.
...Lee
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Previous:
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cn90
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If the CV Boot has never been broken, then:
- Remove the boot and remove as much old grease as possible.
- Then pack new grease and boot and call it a victory.
Of course, you can remove the CV joint, clean with mineral spirits etc. but that is a lot of work.
In fact, you do that ONLY if the boot is broken and dirt has entered the joint.
I have done the simple approach (regrease/reboot) about 20 times in the last 20 years in different cars, zero issues whatsoever.
- Remove the boot and remove as much old grease as possible.
- Then pack new grease and boot and call it a victory.
Of course, you can remove the CV joint, clean with mineral spirits etc. but that is a lot of work.
In fact, you do that ONLY if the boot is broken and dirt has entered the joint.
I have done the simple approach (regrease/reboot) about 20 times in the last 20 years in different cars, zero issues whatsoever.
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98v70dad
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My level of competence regarding calling them serviceable is pretty low. I originally went to get them because Marty said he needed cores to do a 98 v70 since he was out of them.Ozark Lee wrote:If they otherwise look and feel good I would just reboot and re-grease them as necessary. The less you mess with them the better off you will be.
Unless you can get Marty to do the rebuild then just roll with them.
...Lee
They were scarce at the salvage place today. Only a few to choose from. I ended up with a 98 S70 axle for the passengers side. According to the guy who sold it to me it's the same part. They looked identical .... We'll see. The 98 V70 part he had was really rough and worn out.
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