98 V70 Timing belt Change

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 18 Sep 2016, 05:20

MIJ suggest that as well... I couldn't figure out where to put the blade. The head of the bolt is inset in the parts housing. The new part looked like it had room for a blade at that spot, but the tightened down bolt didn't seem to have anywhere to put the blade. Unless you are suggesting just cutting all the way through the part.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 18 Sep 2016, 05:20

This is the best solution for me if I can figure out where to put the blade...

Post by **cn90** » 18 Sep 2016, 07:15

Google Dewalt DWARA100 or DWARA50, about $15 or so.

It is a right-angle attachment to your existing drill:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Right ... /203867866

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Sep 2016, 08:13

It could be that some of those rollers are a bit different. If I recall, the head of the bolt stuck out a bit, enough for me to get a tool on it. I used a very cheap Harbor Freight dremel look-alike that I had to go buy for this purpose. I did not use a drill as I would never have gotten it in between the engine and side wall. At this point, I really wish I could recall exactly how I did this- maybe I did have to cut away the top of the roller to get to the bolt but it seems I was determined and nothing was going to stop me. I do remember quitting one day after trying to figure it out for most of that day and then tackling it again the next. The reason I did it was because although other components appeared to have been replaced once, I figured as tight as everything was, the roller pulley was the original in the car and once it was out, my suspicions were confirmed.

Post by **sleddriver** » 18 Sep 2016, 11:54

charleskennedy23 wrote:I purchased the Lisle t-45 this morning and went at it again. I used a wooden shim as a wedge between my ratchet and the wheel well to make sure the bit stayed in. I then put a cheater bar on the ratchet, and turned. The end result was a completely stripped out bolt.

Bummer....and frustrating. In my response, I was assuming the bolt head was actually visible. Evidently not from your description. So I decided to take another look...

That recess is wickedly shallow! Further, it may be have been put in there with Loctite red.

Here's another view:

1. Before doing any cutting or grinding, I'd recommend trying on a HOT engine block first. If it still won't budge, then heat that bolt with a blue torch flame for ~ 15s, then go at it again. Apply slow, steady torque. It may also be beneficial to first tighten it before loosening it as your "bit" may have better "bite" when turning right. Hit it again with the torch if necessary.

2. Another approach is to go in the opposite direction and use dry ice on a COLD block, if a local grocery store carries it. Several here do. Using thick leather gloves, you'll need to hold a block in place for several minutes, then try again.

3. If non of the above work, AND the bolt threads are FUBAR AND you can't get ahold of anything with the torx, then the sawzall metal cutting blade can be used in the notch formed by the "head/crown" shiny part and the matt, black cast metal forming the "tower", shown in the above photos.

4. If you don't have a Sawzall, then I'd use a MotoTool with a diamond cutting wheel to slice the shiny metal collar surrounding the bolt into sections which you can then break off with a chisel. Done on opposite sides, you can grab the bolt head with vice-grips. Slice meaning hold the Moto-tool long axis perpendicular to the bolt head and slice down onto the collar surrounding it.

Post by **cn90** » 18 Sep 2016, 12:08

Another technique is ANGLE GRINDER + Diamond Blade.
My Angle Grinder is $30 from Menards hardware, IIRC it came with the diamond blade (if not get a new diamond blade).
This tool is very useful around the house.

I cut and paste some photos for illustration:
- Once the TB is out, cut right across the tensioner assembly.
- Remember that the Angle Grinder is way more powerful than a dremel tool.
- Wear googles!
- You will cut across half of this in about 3-4 minutes. Once the bolt is cut, the assembly slides right out.
- Don't take your chance when it comes to timing belt.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 18 Sep 2016, 12:50

wow! You guys are awesome! I love all the suggestions!

ck

Post by **sleddriver** » 18 Sep 2016, 13:10

CN90: I like your MORE POWER approach! I have one of those, but didn't think of it in this case. Excellent idea.

OP: Gotta be really carefull with one of those, down in that area. Anything alumimun it touches will just disappear and you don't want to hit the TB sprocket underneath. Truth is you don't need to go all the way through the "tower" either; just enough to cut the bolt in half then stop. Clean the area thoroughly afterwards with compressed air to remove all metal flakes, chips, etc. so they don't wind up in the TB.

Another safer option is to use a metal grinding disk and just grind away the "face" of the bolt, collar right down flush with the top of the tower. Then it should just slide off. May also produce less metal chips to clean up afterwards.

Good luck!

Post by **shiloh51933** » 18 Sep 2016, 13:25

You need to get a 1/2 inch black impact wrench quality T45 torx socket.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Sep 2016, 14:31

shiloh51933 wrote:You need to get a 1/2 inch black impact wrench quality T45 torx socket.

Well to use that, at this point he is going to need to pull the engine, or drill a hole in the fender ...

98 V70 Timing belt Change

Re: 98 V70 Timing belt Change