Hi
On my Internet research to my problem I discovered this forum and thread.
I recently bought an old 1999 volvo v70 and need it for just one year. Now I have the p1332 error and was wondering whether I can drive the volvo for a couple more kilometers without replacing the cvvt solenoid. As the car only cost me 2000 $ and I need it only for 10 more months I would not want to invest in repairing it if I do not absolutely have to.
So, what would happen if I would just keep on driving with a defective solenoid? I do not notice any problems (weird idling, abnormal fuel consumption,...)
Thanks for your help
Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332
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shakesbeer78
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Some loss of power, otherwise just drive it!
Welcome!
Welcome!
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- v-45magna
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You can definitely drive it. Something to think about: For me, the mpg went up pretty significantly once I replaced the CVVT after getting the P1332 and P0013 on a semi-daily basis. I got one used one off ebay (the kind I could take apart and clean) for about $50 plus about $10 for the connector bits. So depending on the mileage you need to put on in that year, the difference could potentially be made up in fuel savings. From what I've read from others, highway mileage is probably more affected.
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shakesbeer78
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 25 September 2016
- Year and Model: V70 1999
- Location: Switzerland
Thank you very much for your fast and helpful answers! I think I will ask my local dealer here how much a repair with a used part would be and then decide. But I am glad, that if it'd be too expensive I could just go on driving without doing too much harm to the engine and eventually causing a big engine brake down...
Thanks again for your very helpful and reassuring answers.
Thanks again for your very helpful and reassuring answers.
I just did this repair and seems to be working fine (just cranked and idled, no fault) but haven't test driven it yet.
But I did some looking into the connector that people are having trouble with inserting terminals.
The connector is an AMP Germany part, made by Tyco Electric. I found the part and drawing on their website (I'll try to find the files and upload or link). But I don't know where you can buy it.
I did find that the number on the connector is not the part number that Tyco uses. But I'll dig out the PN if I can find it and post.
But I did some looking into the connector that people are having trouble with inserting terminals.
The connector is an AMP Germany part, made by Tyco Electric. I found the part and drawing on their website (I'll try to find the files and upload or link). But I don't know where you can buy it.
I did find that the number on the connector is not the part number that Tyco uses. But I'll dig out the PN if I can find it and post.
- v-45magna
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My photos got knocked off in the great photobucket exodus of 2017, but I have s pretty useful set of links on a post about making a connector for this that becomes an adapter. You don't have to cut into the original harness which means you can use either connector in the future. I am pretty sure Imgur will hang on as a photo host so I'll try and get the pics back up soon.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76294&p=406495#p406495
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76294&p=406495#p406495
Latest victim to get this trouble code. However my reader calls it Knock sensor limit attained. I am getting shuddering when braking and accelerating but pretty much smooth when at cruising speed.
Is that common to the CVVT solenoid being bad? I also have a nice oil leak linked to an evap leak trouble code I have been lazy in dealing with so could be related to not always having enough oil in the engine possibly?
Is that common to the CVVT solenoid being bad? I also have a nice oil leak linked to an evap leak trouble code I have been lazy in dealing with so could be related to not always having enough oil in the engine possibly?
- bmdubya1198
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Oil leak related to an evap code? Please elaborate, that sounds like a problem worth fixing.t3yf5g wrote: ↑22 Apr 2018, 19:36 Latest victim to get this trouble code. However my reader calls it Knock sensor limit attained. I am getting shuddering when braking and accelerating but pretty much smooth when at cruising speed.
Is that common to the CVVT solenoid being bad? I also have a nice oil leak linked to an evap leak trouble code I have been lazy in dealing with so could be related to not always having enough oil in the engine possibly?
00 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 214k
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…and a bunch of other stuff
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00 S70 GLT
98 V70 GLT
93 944
98 S90
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You can’t trust the code reader descriptions , they are made up by twitter users.t3yf5g wrote: ↑22 Apr 2018, 19:36 Latest victim to get this trouble code. However my reader calls it Knock sensor limit attained. I am getting shuddering when braking and accelerating but pretty much smooth when at cruising speed.
Is that common to the CVVT solenoid being bad? I also have a nice oil leak linked to an evap leak trouble code I have been lazy in dealing with so could be related to not always having enough oil in the engine possibly?
Read the P code, then google it with Volvo , eg, Google “P1332 Volvo”to get the right description
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- oragex
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t3yf5g wrote: ↑22 Apr 2018, 19:36 Latest victim to get this trouble code. However my reader calls it Knock sensor limit attained. I am getting shuddering when braking and accelerating but pretty much smooth when at cruising speed.
Is that common to the CVVT solenoid being bad? I also have a nice oil leak linked to an evap leak trouble code I have been lazy in dealing with so could be related to not always having enough oil in the engine possibly?
These may still work electrically, but oil varnish builds up inside on the two bushings that should keep the actuator sliding, and the actuator gets stuck especially as the engine warms up. Very common after about 100K miles. Easy to test, with the engine fully warmed up, just undo the connector and attach connect a wire from the red alternator cable and a second wire to the metal part (make sure the two wires don't touch inside or better use a connector from the scrap yard). You should hear a strong click, a faint click it means it doesn't move properly. Just replace the solenoid itself,
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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