Transmission Seals DIY....and much more..99 S70

[winebanks]

Hello to the best Forum in the world! You guys have saved my life numerous times but, I have an inquiry and maybe y'all can help.

The scenario is, I bought a 99' S70 Base Model with 165k on her for $1500 in Chicago area. I was moving to Arizona, so long drive...... I knew Timing Belt, Water pump, and heater core NEEDED to be done along with driver side CV Axle. I did rear shocks and pinned up exhaust due to rusted hangers near tail pipe. One owner, almost no undercarriage rust, 1 little crack in the leather and 85% good on the exterior. $2300 total (had a friend help and paid him, and yes I used aftermarket parts...) in after all that and she was on the road. Ran great in hot weather with A/C on up from 4k to 10k feet elevation no problem. So, when we got here I was super excited that all was well, for a minute......As you can see below is what caused the silver dollar size spots on my garage floor.

So I decided to pull the trans after the RTV seal between bellhousing and transmission case failed and started leaking along underside seam. I took it to the local transmission guy and he said just replace seals, do another layer of RTV around seam and replace crush washer on drain plug since it was a slow leak. He said cracking it open to just redo the seal would be a lot of labor. So first question is, is that statement accurate and how hard to DIY and redo that seal right is it?

Next question is an identification question and advice about doing PCV system......

When taking out Air Filter Box and Air Intake Hose off, a hose that goes from Idle Control Valve to Injector Rail ripped in half. I can't find this on any other engine pics online or find a name for this hose to get another. As you can see it goes onto inlet to right of oil cap ON TOP of injector rail. I think the other models the hose just goes into the side of the injector rail instead of the top. But, what is this called, what is the part number for MY car etc.!! Any help is appreciated!!!

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Also, because I have fan assembly out and am already all up in there should I do the PCV system as well? It had a little positive cranckcase pressure from dipstick and oil cap when she was running and with 165k mi. on it??.... I am doing the Rear Main Seal while I have trans out and did water pump, timing belt, and heater core so would feel pretty confident I have gotten everything done for the engine for another 100k miles or more on this car. I assume the PCV needs to be done as well and I should just do it. Also the small line that goes into Intake Manifold from the PCV cluster of tubes was split as well but, no haven't seen any ill effects from that?? I can replace just that elbow for very cheap or just commit to doing whole system???.... What do you think?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9155862oe

https://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?P_ID ... ory=basket

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Appreciate the help!!

[cn90]

Make sure it is not RMS leak!

[erikv11]

About the leak:

Your first order of business on the leak is to find out exactly what is leaking and where it is actually coming from. I would clean it up real well, like at the car wash with a hot spray (or use engine degreaser etc), then watch carefully for where the first signs of leakage come from.

What's the evidence that it is trans fluid and not oil?

[clifford06]

Greetings. Congrats on a safe journey ! In my opinion, if you have done the things listed already by all means do PCV replacement. You have the radiator assembly out. Working room. Like erikv11 said "trans fluid not oil " ?

[clifford06]

Also, while you are in there get some plastic wire loom to replace the brittle original wire covers. The covers on my wires crumbled during my engine rebuild. Clean and paint your intake manifold and any paintable parts. Why ? It will help you appreciate the time and money you spent when you open the hood ! Good luck.

[wheelsup]

Chances are with that many miles that is a classic RMS leak. Good news is since you already dropped the transmission to fix it's super easy to fix. Just R&R.

I would personally run a line from your oil dipstick out under the car (take the dipstick out). This relieves the pressure if there is still some left once the PCV is done (you can check with the glove test). Thing is, with that many miles chances are the engine is producing more pressure than the PCV system can handle, even if it's clean. That was the case with mine. I took it apart numerous times and the leak finally stopped once I replaced the seal and put a vacuum tube line off the dipstick and routed it underneath the car.

[winebanks]

You guys are right about not truly knowing trans fluid or oil but, the ATF was monitored and it went below the dipstick when cool. Also compared to the drained fluid it was the same as the leaking fluid but, still don't really know.... The little square notch in the case where I heard to look if it was the RMS leaking was totally clean of oil too. Since trans is out I am doing RMS.... PCV was just being considered while open and access is easy. Anyone have any insight to the hose setup from Idle Control Valve to top of Injector Rail?? Thanks for all the insight guys!!

[tryingbe]

I solved my leaky automatic transmission issue with putting a re-seal manual transmission in.

I figure manual swap would be a lot easier than taking the automatic transmission apart. Manual transmission is so simple.

[winebanks]

That's awesome, I've seen a few of these done!! But, don't think I am that brave, lol

[abscate]

If only you could just click and hold, then drag and drop it into Matt's car......