coolant leak center rear engine

Post by **sleddriver** » 07 Oct 2016, 01:34

Wow...you experienced a WP lockup. Geeze. How truly unfortunate.

Rather than comment further, I'll listen-in-the-background while those who've actually done a HG weigh in.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Oct 2016, 07:36

clifford06 wrote:... Just curious , if no overheat , do I need to resurface head ? Can intake/ exhaust gaskets be reused ? ...

Intake manifold gasket I have reused, it is relatively easy to replace if it doesn't work out. Exhaust gasket you can get a new 1-piece one from the Volvo dealer for under $10, I would go new with that because it is more of a PITA to replace. Spark plug tube seals I would check them when you pull the head and then decide. If they seem pliable and plump then reuse them. The paper gaskets (cooling line, thermostat) I would replace, they are cheap enough. Head bolts is a trickier decision. I have reused OEM head bolts, the rule of thumb I got from a mechanic is you can reuse the OEM ones *one time* but never reuse again. That rule worked for him on maybe 100 head pulls so I trust it. But the aftermarket bolts I don't trust, I would be hesitant to reuse them. That may be your most expensive decision, unless you bought the bolts from Volvo (doubtful I know).

Who surfaced the head last time? I wouldn't outright assume it needs a resurface it but I would definitely get it checked for flatness. Also ask them to clean up both surfaces of the head and of the cam cover. Otherwise you will spend a full day just cleaning everything. Similarly I would make darn sure the top surface of the engine is clean and flat, that is perhaps the most challenging part of doing head work. Is it possible the engine top surface wasn't fully cleaned? Look carefully at the surfaces back near the leak, once you open it up (if you do). No sandpaper!

101 · Post by **101** » 07 Oct 2016, 11:48

Clifford:

I've never removed an aluminum cylinder head from a motor that didn't have some degree of warp to it. I always have mine checked at a machine shop and resurfaced, regardless of mileage. In your case, I'd also have the head checked for leaks and casting cracks.

Not to state the obvious, but were the block and head mating surfaces squeaky clean and free of gouges? Did you use a Volvo OEM head gasket, new head bolts, and angle torque them to spec? I'm not sure how sensitive these motors are to head gasket brands, but I do know that the BMW crowd HATES Victor Reinz gaskets.

I like to use the spray copper stuff on both sides of the head gasket when I rebuild my motors. It may be overkill, but it's cheap.

I've reused a low time intake gasket successfully. I would recommend replacing the exhaust gaskets.

Keith

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 07 Oct 2016, 22:25

Greetings. You guys came with logic. I will have the head checked for level and cracks and a cleaning to speed up sealant removal. The exhaust gaskets will surely be replaced , since they are a bit#h to replace after head install. Since I don't have to redo valves , new gaskets and aftermarket bolts are a plus. I will take a close look at the leak area once head is off.
I might just have my original head rebuilt as a backup . Thanks

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 08 Oct 2016, 00:32

Might as well get new camshaft seals ( Corteco ) in case current ones get damaged during this replacement. These things always happen to me right when the weather starts to change.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 11 Oct 2016, 16:47

Greetings. Just wondering , this was my first head job (LOL) , if a loose head bolt could be "retorqued " to specs if it was never tightened all the way correctly on install ? I was thinking that maybe before I pulled the head off, that taking the cam cover off and tightening headbolts and see if the leak stops. If it did it would save wrenching hassle . Thoughts and opinions respected.

Post by **rspi** » 11 Oct 2016, 17:49

I would think that a loose bolt would cause the head to warp when the engine warms up but hey, 3 hours vs 18 hours, worth the try if you find a loose bolt or two.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 11 Oct 2016, 19:02

Greetings. Well , I figured that while waiting for ordered parts I'd try a " lil something something ". Invest in a tube of sealant and couple of DIY hours won't kill me. The worst it can do is leak.

Volvo4all · Post by **Volvo4all** » 15 May 2017, 20:15

I did try the Blue Devil head gasket sealer. First off it failed to seal but I can say the money back guarantee is valid and they did refund the 35.00 for the product. Lastly when I tore down the head, the residual mess made by the Blue Devil took a lot of time to clean up. Surfaced the head, new head gasket and good as new.

coolant leak center rear engine

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