No start after valve job...

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 14 Oct 2016, 20:56

After a much longer time than anticipated, I got my 96 855 engine reassembled! While it was apart, I took the time to replace all of the original(!) vacuum hoses, replace the hydraulic motor mounts, and install a new timing belt. I don't have a garage, so I must thank my mom for the use of hers as well as letting me use her car! I also managed to drop a 7mm socket into my turbo as I was installing the hose, so that turned into another day's work. At this point the turbo was actually quite easy to get out...

So, finally go to start it up and it turns over, but nothing. But the fan runs for a while, and I realize I didn't plug in the coolant temp sensor. Still doesn't start, and the battery dies after a few more tries since it's been out of the car for a week. So after a night on a charger, I try again but no start. Plugs smell like fuel, so I try a compression check; a solid 115 - 120 across the board. Then I read that somebody on here once installed the cam adapter under the rotor 180 degrees by accident, and that was the fix for their no-start. I tried swapping that around, to no avail (would the rotor being off 180 degrees keep it from starting?). It sounds like it may be a bad cam position sensor, since I cracked the ever-fragile connector when I originally removed it; it still plugs in, and the wires appear ok, but I plan on checking it tomorrow when I have a chance. Any thoughts?

Post by **abscate** » 15 Oct 2016, 02:35

Try some starting fluid to isolate fuel and ignition as problem areas.

Timing mark check is prudent too,

115# compression is very low but that can technique or low battery

Post by **cuhfs** » 15 Oct 2016, 06:38

Don't PANIC. Take your time to think problrm thru. We all have had issues after a big job and usually it is some minor thing overlooked. I once did not connect starter wires correctly after valve job. Good luck,

Post by **chrafael** » 15 Oct 2016, 07:48

Check the firing order diagram on this site.

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Oct 2016, 09:24

Double check cam timing.
Check for spark
Put teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, replace the plugs, then try to start it again.
Change the battery, it is close to the end of its useful life.

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 15 Oct 2016, 11:00

Update: timing is off by one tooth; I've ordered a cam sprocket locking tool because it keeps moving on me (the new belt is SO tight). I've also found a leaking coolant hose (the short turbo hose on the back of the engine, passenger side), so now I wait for the parts. I'm still wondering about the rotor, can it be 180 degrees off and still start?

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 15 Oct 2016, 11:04

cuhfs wrote:Don't PANIC. Take your time to think problrm thru. We all have had issues after a big job and usually it is some minor thing overlooked. I once did not connect starter wires correctly after valve job. Good luck,

I hear that. My first major diy fix was the pcv system last fall, and I didn't plug in the idle air control all the way. Car went to full throttle on start up, thought I killed it lol. Took a shower, thought it through, and fixed it in a few minutes. I'm trying to remain calm, but it's taking a bit longer than I was hoping. I miss my baby!

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Oct 2016, 11:26

Negative on 180 degree start.

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 15 Oct 2016, 11:53

tryingbe wrote:Negative on 180 degree start.

Ok, thanks. So how do I know if the camshaft adaptor is in correctly, since it is possible to put in backwards (the rotor is keyed so I know that will be correct).

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 19 Oct 2016, 08:20

Quick update and answer to my own question (and anybody else who may run into this problem): the adaptor on the intake cam is actually designed to go on one way, though you can accidentally install it 180 degrees backwards. If you look at the pic, there are 2 "keys" that fit into the cam groove. They are slightly above center, just as the notch in the cam is. I didn't notice this the first time...