1996 850 Tie Rod Replacement Topic is solved

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 28 Oct 2016, 09:31

I just did the outers and I would suggest that you get the correct very
large open end wrenches if you don't already have them. Some use
an adjustable but I just liked using the correct tool. Also soak the nuts
with PB Blaster, which I'm guessing you already know.

harryhendo · Post by **harryhendo** » 28 Oct 2016, 09:37

The $49 rebuilt axle shaft is not from China. It is rebuilt on Long Island, NY, USA to ISO standards with a warranty. So I'm not going to assume that just because it is rebuilt, and was on sale, that it is crap. I was impressed with the quality... no play, everything done correctly, the right locking clip, etc. Maybe they rebuilt a 1000 of the Volvo axles and needed to clear them out. But I'd wager they make most of their money on people NOT sending back the axle for the $75 core charge refund.

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Oct 2016, 09:45

Of course they don't rebuild them in China. They can make a new one for less than the cost of gathering and shipping old ones over. Where the CV joints come from is the key question. And TBH the boots I expect are low quality too.

Don't get me wrong I sincerely hope it works out. But so far no other option has been reliable (none other than raxles.com and keeping the factory axles), that's why I am skeptical. Definitely check the boots in the spring, if you run this car in the NJ winter.

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Oct 2016, 09:47

PeteB wrote:I just did the outers and I would suggest that you get the correct very
large open end wrenches if you don't already have them. Some use
an adjustable but I just liked using the correct tool. Also soak the nuts
with PB Blaster, which I'm guessing you already know.

OP will not be touching the outer jam nuts if he replaces the whole assembly (inner, outer, boot). Remember the whole reason for the replacement (see first post) is the shop said they can't break loose the jam nuts. Or maybe that should be tested ...

osmium · Post by **osmium** » 28 Oct 2016, 10:29

Well, I placed the order for everything yesterday, so we'll see how the CV boot replacement goes. Till then, the 850 is on injured reserve.

I got the Volvo boots for the steering rack. Will I need a special tool for the clamps they come with?

-Os

harryhendo · Post by **harryhendo** » 28 Oct 2016, 12:49

By the way, if you are doing the inner tie rods, you'll need a special tool to get at them. I "rented" it from PepBoys, for FREE. You pay the cost of the tool (I think it was $50), then when you return it in the same condition, you get your $50 back.

osmium · Post by **osmium** » 05 Nov 2016, 11:34

: IMG_0746.JPG (109.73 KiB) Viewed 1654 times

OK, the CV boot replacement went without a hitch. Hardest part was getting the axle out of the bearing. The axle popped out of the transmission on the first tap using the 5/8" Craftsman chisel.

Now I'm on to the tie rods.

On the inner tie rod, there are no flats for a wrench. I guess I'll head to Harbor Freight a get a pipe wrench. (always called them a "monkey" wrench as a kid). The TRW replacemnt have the flats.

The question I have is where to grip the part from the steering rack. Right behind the tie rod? There are flat sections further back, just out of the photo above. I can get an adjustable wrench on them.

-Os

Jaguar xjs · Post by **Jaguar xjs** » 05 Nov 2016, 13:39

I just did this job on Thursday. I just grabbed hold of the inner rod with a pair of good channel locks and it popped right off. Upon installation, I used blue lock tight as a precaution.

Gordon

osmium · Post by **osmium** » 05 Nov 2016, 14:44

Thanks

I gripped it right behind the tie rod ball and used a pipe wrench to loosen it.

-Os

osmium · Post by **osmium** » 06 Nov 2016, 12:46

Job completed.

Thanks for all the help!

-Os

1996 850 Tie Rod Replacement Topic is solved

Re: 1996 850 Tie Rod Replacement