93 850 jerking sensation w a flashing check engine light

Post by **fiore67** » 27 Apr 2007, 06:55

Some info for the older 850 owners. Recently got an intermittent jerking sensation along with a flashing check engine light. A code 214 referencing the RPM or Crank sensor led me to changing this. When the problem persisted I went to Alldata online, keyed in the code 214 and my car info and what do you know. All I needed was a zip tie to move the crank sensor wire away from the distributor cap. A TSB was referenced from back in 1995. Not bad for a novice. A local independent shop that works on nothing but foreign cars quoted me $250.00 just to do a diagnosis. Don't think I'll be going there any time soon.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 27 Apr 2007, 07:10

Some repairs are simple and cheap....others are not. Lucky on this one....Thanks for sharing! Btw, the MAF sensor plug-in cable is the same way- if you don't zip tie it away from the triangular relay box, it will chafe and cause you issue. If you haven't already done this one, do it preventatively.

rpm4565 · Post by **rpm4565** » 08 Jul 2007, 12:58

Just had the identical experience with zip tie solution to severe engine jerk. With exception that shop #1 could never diagnose problem after one week and dealer took a second week before discovering this old service bulletin. $2 charge for zip ties and 3 hours labor charge. Sounds like a commercial for Alldata.
Solution also included adding hose insulation to the wiring to replace deteriorated wiring insulation and to increase separation of electrical signals. Mechanic also suggested that other wiring insulations were disintegrating and I should rewrap them myself to avoid future problems.

fredstock99 · Post by **fredstock99** » 09 Jul 2007, 11:43

i recently had the same problem with my 1993 850, however i could not figure out how to get the CMP sensor cables any farther away from the distributor than they already were. i tested the CMP circuit according to the chilton's manual i have, and for the lead that was supposed to have battery voltage, i only had 11.14V, when battery voltage was reading 12.47V. The 5V lead was reading 4.97V, which is good, but the ground lead which was supposed to have continuity to ground, was reading 20 Ohms resistance. I happen to have access to a 1996 850 wagon with bent valve stems due to a broken water pump, so i just took the CMP sensor off that one, and put it on my car. Since that, i have had no problems for the past ~1000 miles, its running like a champ again.

I'd like to know (a) where you can zip-tying those cables to (if there is a picture that'd be great) (b) if my lead readings for the censor circuit are close enough to what they should be, or if there is evidence enough that i should somehow fix the circuit before it causes another $180 sensor to go bad....