Etm giving me a headache, advice sought. Topic is solved

[precopster]

Faulty board. No doubt now. Sorry to hear this

[s10lowrider1994]

Shit, does that mean I need a new etm?

[precopster]

No just another one that works. You can have them programmed at the dealer.

Just don't tell them it's from another car. Tell them car started acting up and you heard an ETM reload may help otherwise they may not want to get involved.

If you have a Dice programming tool or can borrow one there's another way by having it programmed over the internet if you have a Windows laptop by a guy who can do this. You don't need to install Vida; just the Dice USB drivers. PM me for details.

[s10lowrider1994]

Well it's fixed, but it ended up not being the etm, go figure. The stupid cvvt solenoid was causing everything, makes no sense but that was the new code that appeared after I "repaired" the etm. Was at the scrap yard today and grabbed a solenoid just for kicks, $6 later and everything is back to normal. Guess at least I won't have to worry about the etm eventually croaking now that it's had the repair kit installed. Stupid car almost got given away, glad I tried the solenoid before throwing in the towel.

[precopster]

Robert great work on the video. In addition to this excellent video just a couple of additions to prevent issues for people trying to duplicate your results and may save some heartache and wasted time for them.

They're not solder points that you're trying to break on these; they're tiny spot welds that are best ground down about 2mm with a Dremel tool.

The reason it's best to grind them down to the weld points is that some of the spot welds are so stubborn that you can break off the metal leg and be left with no ETM to work on!!

Also before mounting the ETM it's best to connect the ETM to the loom and power ignition on (POS II) and listen to the ETM start up.
If the ETM stays on for around 8 seconds you are on your way home.
If it double clicks and shuts off immediately then you may need to re-reference the magnet to a slightly different position (there is around 5 degrees of movement on the cut D shaft) so that the ETM is within a startup operating range of between 1.25V and 1.55V between pins 1 and 3 on the Sacer sensor. You can also take measurements with a multimeter before fitting it.

It may also help here to say that ETMs can fail for a variety of reasons even AFTER a contact less conversion has been done and the contactless conversion should ONLY be done if P0120 or P0121 (ECM-9150 or ECM-9160 on a Vida/Dice) are amongst the reported error codes.

[Kazthebassman]

Glad you got it working and relatively inexpensive too. When I was having ETM like symptoms, I tried the cvvt solenoid but it was not the answer for mine. Some great advise by precopster, although I will add that I did not have those codes(P0120, P121) when my ETM was bad. My ETM conditions(stuttering, hunting and into limp mode) became evident when the vehicle was at operating temperature. Something that seems to have been mostly ignored in this thread, was the use of the Xemodex flow charts to determine if the ETM is actually bad. They worked for me, although I had to get to operating temp then get in quickly, to take measurements. I have found it is not uncommon, to have more than one issue at one time with these cars. My C70 cab has kept me very busy from 72K miles(when I bought it) to the 140K miles that it now has.

[Brucebo]

Lol now I've got a p1671 that wasn't there before, comes back instantly when cleared. I'll go listen for the etm real quick.

Did you ever find out what caused the P1671 code?