Codes: P1113, P1171, P0171 and P0134

Andys_Volvo · Post by **Andys_Volvo** » 05 Dec 2016, 12:10

Hello All,
I have a 99 S70 AWD with 83,000 miles and am getting the above codes.
Recent history includes the following.
I just got the car back from the shop where they installed a new flex plate and starter. Just before it went into the shop I put in a new set of spark plugs. After I got it back it was running well for a day or two. Then after a highway run of 60-70 miles I shut it down and noticed the exhaust smelled funny but did not have any issues with how it was running. I started it back up about 20-30 minutes later and within a mile it started to die at idle and run rough and the CEL came on. I was in traffic so when we were stopped I would put it into neutral and give it gas to keep it from stalling. When we got out within 10 minutes there was a burning smell. It started up later and we drove home. It seemed to be running a bit better but still rough. The exhaust has a strong sulfur smell. My basic scanner gave me the codes listed above (P1113, P1171, P0171 and P0134). I did a visual on the O2 sensor and didn't see any burned wires or anything suspicious. I cleaned the MAF without any change. I also did a visual for vaccuum leaks and sprayed some carb cleaner without noticing any difference. I should also point out that before I had the flex plate done, I replaced the starter myself because it was not engaging. (Turned out the flex plate was chewed up which is why brough tit to the shop). In doing so I removed the inlet pipe which had two sensors on it. I broke one and replaced it with a new one from the dealer. The other one I believe, is temperature related and I may have damaged the seal between it and the inlet pipe because it seems a bit loose now but I did not replace it yet. It did start after I did the starter and ran fine other than the flex plate issue and, again, the car was running well after I got it back from having the flex plate done. So I dont think tha sensor is the issue.
I would greatly appreciate any insight and suggestions before I go throwing new parts at it or bring it in to the shop.
Thanks,
Andy

Post by **abscate** » 05 Dec 2016, 12:36

I think the inlet pipe with the two sensors is your induction hose before the Electronic Throttle Body (ETM). If you have an air leak there, the car will run horribly and you will pop multiple codes. The pathway from air cleaner to ETM has to be absolutely tight for this car to run. It is not hard to get it that way, but it has to be tight.

Andys_Volvo · Post by **Andys_Volvo** » 05 Dec 2016, 22:01

Thanks for the info. The pipe is located directly under the exhaust manifold and in front of the starter. I moved it and removed the two sensors when I was replacing the starter. I will try to seal the sensor by pushing it tighter to the pipe when the car is running to see if it runs any better.

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 05 Dec 2016, 23:27

The P1113 is due to your outdoor temperature sensors. There should be one on each side of the license plate, on the lower air dam. Wouldn't be surprised if they bumped one when doing the starter/flywheel.

The other codes make it sound like you have a vacuum leak of some sort.

I had an '04 V70 Turbo, and the intercooler pipe came loose one time (I had failed to tighten the clamp at the intercooler). Basically, the engine went absolutely NUTS - codes everywhere. Note that the intercooler pipe is directly above the starter - so they would have had it off.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Dec 2016, 11:27

Andys_Volvo wrote:Thanks for the info. The pipe is located directly under the exhaust manifold and in front of the starter. I moved it and removed the two sensors when I was replacing the starter. I will try to seal the sensor by pushing it tighter to the pipe when the car is running to see if it runs any better.

Probably the intake manifold, but you could have the rarely seen backwards installed inline5 engine

Andys_Volvo · Post by **Andys_Volvo** » 06 Dec 2016, 15:05

Thanks again,
The sensor on the induction hose with the loose fit is the air temperature sensor. This morning I tried to hold it tight to the pipe while running the car but it still ran rough. I tried taking it out altogether and sealing off the opening with basically the same results. I tried testing the MAF by unplugging it and plugging it back in a few times with different results. When I first unplugged the MAF with the car running the rpms dipped then rebounded and the car continued to run a bit rough with an occasional dip in the rpms. The first couple times I plugged it back in the rpms would dip but would then pick up and the car would continue running. With later tests there was no change in the rpms when I plugged the MAF back in. Maybe I should not have done this but I unplugged the MAF when the car was off and started it up. It ran but then the ETS light came on which I am guessing is to be expected since the MAF was unplugged.Don't know if this changes anything.

I will check the induction pipe connections and for any cracks. The car still runs and runs better after it starts to warm. The rough running is at its worst upon first starting the car. There is also black soot coming from the exhaust
Thanks again for the input. It is greatly appreciated.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Dec 2016, 18:07

You shouldn't un/plug the MAF with power on. Bad for electronics.

The black soot is key that the air fuel mixture is badly messed up....probably big induction leak.

Andys_Volvo · Post by **Andys_Volvo** » 06 Dec 2016, 18:53

Good to know. I wont do that anymore. Will hopefully be able to check connections and pipe tomorrow. Any other suggestions on how a DIYer can find a vacuum leak besides spraying a flammable? I have read about something with smoke or a cigar but don't know any specifics.

Thanks

Andys_Volvo · Post by **Andys_Volvo** » 07 Dec 2016, 16:26

So here is an update for all those interested. I looked around for vacuum leaks again and checked the inter-cooler inlet and pipe for leaks, cracks etc. I didn't find anything obvious but removed the short hose inlet from the inter-cooler to the hard pipe that goes under the exhaust manifold and loosened the clamp on the other end of the hard pipe where it meets what I think is the ETM. Because I wasn't sure that I would be able to get that end of the pipe back on if I removed it, I loosened it but left it attached to the ETM. I just made sure that it was snugged up to the ETM which it appeared to have been all along but also made very sure that the clamp was on very tight when I re-tightened it I did the same when replacing the other clamps and inlet to make sure everything was as tight as I could make it. I also put some WD-40 on the o-ring around the temperature sensor hoping it would help seal it a bit better. I will order a new one as a more permanent fix.
Re the P1113 code I found a disconnected sensor by the air dam and re-connected it.
The car started up and ran a little rough for just a couple seconds but then smoothed out and ran fine. To be on the safe side I ran the scanner again and recorded all of the codes and freeze frame data before erasing. Since then the car has started and run well. Also thee is no more soot or bad smell coming from the exhaust. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem does not re-occur. I am not sure exactly what the problem was or what I did but my best guess would be that the clamp at the ETM end of the inter-cooler pipe was not as tight as it should have been.

I do have a question re the freeze frame data and vacuum leaks in general. The data, which was only listed for the P1171 code, was engine speed of 1960 rpms, calc load 9.0%, coolant 185, st ftrm1 27.3%, LT ftrm1 23.4%, vehicle speed 57 mph, fuels syst 1 closed, fuel syst 2 N/A. I am not sure what all this means but was wondering if a vacuum leak is more likely to occur at higher speeds. My thinking is that there would be greater pressure on the faulty joint or connection which might explain why the problem didn't appear until after or during a 60 plus mile highway drive. If that is the case then I guess I won't know for sure how my car is doing until I put some highway miles on it.

Anyway, thank you again for the input and help it is much appreciated!

Post by **abscate** » 07 Dec 2016, 19:03

That sounds good. Some of the workshop manuals and people here call the silver aluminum exhaust manifold on the left side of the engine (towards front of car) the intake manifold just to be confusing...