I realise I forgot to grab the brake booster on the 99, which is 20 minutes away on way to airport
Can someone tell me what tools are needed to remove it? All data did not have a procedure
I think it bolts on from dash side perhaps deep,sockets are needed?
Dash is out, master cylinder removed
1999 P80 harvest brake booster tools needed?
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35301
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1505 times
- Been thanked: 3818 times
1999 P80 harvest brake booster tools needed?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35301
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1505 times
- Been thanked: 3818 times
Brake Booster replacement:
First start by Disconnecting the Battery.
Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.
Next remove the Air filter housing.
The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.
Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.
Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.
Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.
That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.
Inside the car:
Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.
Now go back outside:
Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.
First start by Disconnecting the Battery.
Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.
Next remove the Air filter housing.
The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.
Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.
Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.
Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.
That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.
Inside the car:
Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.
Now go back outside:
Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- skloon
- Posts: 526
- Joined: 17 June 2010
- Year and Model: 94 850 95 850 04 S60
- Location: Edmonton AB
- Been thanked: 2 times
It is possible to remove without taking off the abs- you just bend it out of the way- be careful not to damage any of the plastic pieces on the booster- I cut away hoses to avoid pressure on the aged plastic so you need some torx and a 10mm and 12mm under the hood to remove the master or a 13mm take all 3
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35301
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1505 times
- Been thanked: 3818 times
Im going to report this job is a b***** but with a new booster being $550 on sale, Im glad I grabbed it.
12 mm for the master cylinders bolts
You don't need to remove the upper engine mount as reported by Alldata - you can wiggle the booster past the mount and ABS pump - its tight but it will go.
The booster is on with four long M8/ 13mm that need a deep socket and access is really sucky...and that was with the dash removed.
I did remove the ABS pump (harvesting that too) which was three 12mm bolts and four brake line (13mm open) to be removed.
12 mm for the master cylinders bolts
You don't need to remove the upper engine mount as reported by Alldata - you can wiggle the booster past the mount and ABS pump - its tight but it will go.
The booster is on with four long M8/ 13mm that need a deep socket and access is really sucky...and that was with the dash removed.
I did remove the ABS pump (harvesting that too) which was three 12mm bolts and four brake line (13mm open) to be removed.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
-
scot850
- Posts: 14893
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1850 times
- Been thanked: 1712 times
Well done that man! We have had so few P80's through PnP in the last 3 months and with temperatures for the last 2 weeks and up to the start of next week in the -20 to -30C range I am reluctant to go pulling parts there anyway!
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35301
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1505 times
- Been thanked: 3818 times
Notes from P2 forum on this job
Re: Air Leak from brake panel area!!!
by ashotwell73 » 25 Aug 2009, 23:54
I just replaced the brake booster on my 2001 V70XC. It was making an air leaking sound that changed when the brakes were applied. The leak was under the bellows that surrounds the piston which applies pressure to the master brake cylinder. There is a seal around the piston between the piston and the body of the booster. There was a large piece of the seal missing.
The 2001 S80 is the same design. My daughter has an S80 and I checked it out today to see if they are the same as the V70.
It takes about 3hours the first time. You must remove the air filter box, the fuse box, the abs unit, the master cylinder, and the turbo intake tube to be able to remove the brake booster from the car. The worst part is working under the dash removing the four nuts which hold the booster to the fire wall. A 3/8 drive rt.angle head air ratchet with a deep socket and a swivel joint will make the work under the dash much less painful. I took the nuts off with a manual ratchet and I would rather have root canal work. The air tool with the swivel joint is the only way!!
You must disconnect the brake lines from the ABS unit and the master cylinder. Put rags under them to catch the drips. I used a syringe to remove all of the brake fluid from the reservoir before pulling the brake lines off. This results in much less fluid loss and mess. After all is replaced, I did a pressure bleed of the system to clear the air bubbles. You can get a pressure bleeder from IPD USA. I bought the bosster from IPDUSA also.
Good Luck! 97 850 T-5, many upgrades; 01 XC70 IPD Sways; 05 S60R stock; 87 740 GLE many IPD parts
Re: Air Leak from brake panel area!!!
by ashotwell73 » 25 Aug 2009, 23:54
I just replaced the brake booster on my 2001 V70XC. It was making an air leaking sound that changed when the brakes were applied. The leak was under the bellows that surrounds the piston which applies pressure to the master brake cylinder. There is a seal around the piston between the piston and the body of the booster. There was a large piece of the seal missing.
The 2001 S80 is the same design. My daughter has an S80 and I checked it out today to see if they are the same as the V70.
It takes about 3hours the first time. You must remove the air filter box, the fuse box, the abs unit, the master cylinder, and the turbo intake tube to be able to remove the brake booster from the car. The worst part is working under the dash removing the four nuts which hold the booster to the fire wall. A 3/8 drive rt.angle head air ratchet with a deep socket and a swivel joint will make the work under the dash much less painful. I took the nuts off with a manual ratchet and I would rather have root canal work. The air tool with the swivel joint is the only way!!
You must disconnect the brake lines from the ABS unit and the master cylinder. Put rags under them to catch the drips. I used a syringe to remove all of the brake fluid from the reservoir before pulling the brake lines off. This results in much less fluid loss and mess. After all is replaced, I did a pressure bleed of the system to clear the air bubbles. You can get a pressure bleeder from IPD USA. I bought the bosster from IPDUSA also.
Good Luck! 97 850 T-5, many upgrades; 01 XC70 IPD Sways; 05 S60R stock; 87 740 GLE many IPD parts
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






