I'm trying to do this as a precaution, no leaks currently, the part from the
manifold to the plastic connector under the air box is easy but the rest to
the booster seems impossible without removing the ABS etc. to get to it.
Any tips? Otherwise I'm just going to leave it since there does not seem
to be an issue at this point.
Brake Booster Vac Line Replacement
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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I haven't done the vac line but I am fresh off inventing new swear words after harvesting a brake booster of a 99
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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scot850
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I have only replaced the vacuum line on an 850 recently as the front portion of the line to the plastic connector when the old line split when I tried to remove it the rubber was that dry. I decided to chicken out to replace the remainder but do recall it was in good shape as it is protected from most of the crap in the engine bay that generated heat. But I'm sure I did do it many years ago either on a 98 V70 XC or a 93 850NA. Like our friend abscate I seem to recall developing a whole new vocabulary of engineering encouragement words. Can't recall how I did it, but did not remove the ABS unit that I recall, but there are different vacuum brake booster styles that may make it easier on one version than another.
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- abscate
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System Wide Engineering Accolades Rapport is the HR approved language here on MVS
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
Hello everyone. I also need to tackle this job on my car. I recently removed the intake manifold for my PCV replacement. The brake booster hose that attaches to the manifold crumbled into pieces when I removed it from the manifold. Is there a Volvo replacement part to this hose that I can buy or can I substitute it with a same diameter vacuum line hose from the auto parts store. I have to remove it from the plastic connection under the air box.
Thanks you everyone
Thanks you everyone
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polskamafia mjl
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You just need a vacuum hose that's the correct diameter and thick enough not to collapse under vacuum. I sourced a replacement from NAPA.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
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Paul-93-850
- Posts: 96
- Joined: 27 October 2007
- Year and Model: 1993 850 non-turbo
- Location: Beach
O'reilly auto just sold me a hose that has me wondering. The outside diameter is not as thick as original.
Gates 27053 3/8" (7/16" Nipple);
Type: Windshield Washer & Vacuum Hose (Non-Reinforced)
$0.87 per foot
Is this good enough?
Gates 27053 3/8" (7/16" Nipple);
Type: Windshield Washer & Vacuum Hose (Non-Reinforced)
$0.87 per foot
Is this good enough?
- ZionXIX
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Just did this replacement. I had to use a large flat head screw driver held vertically and wedged in between the one way valve and the booster then gently twist the screwdriver back and forth until the valve backs its way out. Then pull the hose and valve through the bottom of the master cylinder. Once valve is changed out I routed the free end of the hose through the top of the master cylinder area and was able to pull it through underneath the master cylinder with some long pliers or another screwdriver. Once the valve is at the right height I used various long tools to position the valve and then comes the tricky part. I took a really long flat head screw driver and routed it in a horizontal fashion from the passenger side of the master cylinder and position the flat head between the valve and the master cylinder. Then take another long tool from above and use the master cylinder as a fulcrum to leverage the Valve into place. Frustrating but doable.
Last edited by ZionXIX on 07 Nov 2018, 14:19, edited 1 time in total.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
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vovo850
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I don't know if it's worth starting a new thread but I'm wondering if this could be my issue.
On cold starts I have a hard pedal, where it feels like there is no vacuum helping.
Once it's been running the pedal feels "normal" again. Could I be having this issue here or should I post a new thread?
On cold starts I have a hard pedal, where it feels like there is no vacuum helping.
Once it's been running the pedal feels "normal" again. Could I be having this issue here or should I post a new thread?
1995 Volvo 850 GLT N/A automatic wagon
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