Trying to do PCV system and the fuel line to the rail is not connected by the two bolts system but a Torex 25 holding a piece of metal. I took that off now what pry it off or what I'm confused.
pic
1994 N/A 850 Fuel Rail Disconnect?
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confused_al
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: 4 August 2008
- Year and Model: 1996 TLA wagon
- Location: NJ
The fuel line is held by a C-clip, take out the screw which fasten the c-clip to the rail and then pull out the c-clip. After that you just pull the line out of the rail.
In case you didnt free the line yet, then you need to remove the fuel line clamp on the top of the engine (let me borrow Lee's pic here);
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... id=921&t=1
as well as remove the fuel line clamp behind the engine in order to free the line entirely.
In case you didnt free the line yet, then you need to remove the fuel line clamp on the top of the engine (let me borrow Lee's pic here);
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... id=921&t=1
as well as remove the fuel line clamp behind the engine in order to free the line entirely.
Last edited by confused_al on 09 Mar 2011, 18:42, edited 1 time in total.
96 850 Platinum Wagon
98 MB ML320
06 V70
95 850 GLT(RIP)
98 MB ML320
06 V70
95 850 GLT(RIP)
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tblindt
- Posts: 44
- Joined: 27 April 2009
- Year and Model: SPORTSWAGON 855 1994
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Thank You Sir. I just had to spray with PB blast and wait then pry with a thicker tool. Had to pry out the fuel line pretty good was scared about breaking line, just had to get aggressive. Originally, I looked at my cousin's 850 and it had the nut and bolt type setup and then looked at mine and was like ...??!
Travis
Travis
1994 Volvo 855 Sportswagon 185k
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
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I just finished, it is really not too difficult. I followed along with this video which
is for a turbo, but still very similar:
Also, would probably be a good idea to watch Robert's videos:
Once you remove the Torx 25 and the 10mm bolt at the back of the engine the
fuel line is very free to flop around. The 10 mm bolt hold a small metal clamp
that you should pull off so that it does not fall under the car.
When I removed the electrical connections there were clear rectangular soft
rubber pieces sitting on the top of the connector, save them in a safe place.
They probably help to seal the connections to keep out moisture.
is for a turbo, but still very similar:
Also, would probably be a good idea to watch Robert's videos:
Once you remove the Torx 25 and the 10mm bolt at the back of the engine the
fuel line is very free to flop around. The 10 mm bolt hold a small metal clamp
that you should pull off so that it does not fall under the car.
When I removed the electrical connections there were clear rectangular soft
rubber pieces sitting on the top of the connector, save them in a safe place.
They probably help to seal the connections to keep out moisture.
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Connecticut, USA
- Has thanked: 57 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Follow the video which tells you to disconnect some electrical and vac lines.
I also removed the IAC just to have more room to work.
The next difficult step is to remove the dip stick 12mm bolt. I used a 1/4" drive
because it is small, sight down the dipstick tube and you'll see the bracket that
is bolted to the bottom of the manifold, the 12mm bolt comes out downward
toward the bottom of the car.
There is a second 12mm bolt that is in the same position but about 4 to 6" closer
to the block and you mostly have to go by feel to get it, it is not really that hard
once you know where it is.
I also removed the IAC just to have more room to work.
The next difficult step is to remove the dip stick 12mm bolt. I used a 1/4" drive
because it is small, sight down the dipstick tube and you'll see the bracket that
is bolted to the bottom of the manifold, the 12mm bolt comes out downward
toward the bottom of the car.
There is a second 12mm bolt that is in the same position but about 4 to 6" closer
to the block and you mostly have to go by feel to get it, it is not really that hard
once you know where it is.
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ir637113
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 20 December 2016
- Year and Model: 94 850 NA Wagon
- Location: Tipp City, OH
- Has thanked: 12 times
Thanks for the advice. Follow up - I need to replace a hard plastic vacuum line that runs under the intake manifold to the PCV (i believe it is for the fire shield) - is there a way to do this without removing the intake manifold, or am I better off taking this thing somewhere? (I am NOT a car guy, and intake manifold work is not something I'd like to have on my plate today)
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Connecticut, USA
- Has thanked: 57 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Hi, There was a rubber elbow, that on our car went from 1/4" from the connection
on the side of the intake manifold and reduced down to the size for the hard plastic
line, then another at the other end going from the hard plastic to 3/16". Some here have
reported 3/16" at both ends, that would in no way fit on the 1/4" side on our car.
I think that people have done this without removing the manifold. If you are ready to
give it a try get a light in there and see if you can pull off the end between the thermostat
and the 1/4" nipple on the side of the manifold. The hose on our car was crumbling apart.
I would look or feel there and make sure that all of the old elbow is off. Then with new
1/4" vac line try to use needle nose pliers to push it onto the nipple. The vac is so high
and ours was so tight that I don't think you need a clamp. I ran this line forward then over
the top of the manifold with about 8" of 1/4" line, then to a 1/4" brass coupler from Home
Depot, and for some reason the 3/16" line would fit (tight use some grease) over the 1/4"
coupler, then go the rest of the way with 3/16" line. This goes to a nipple on the Flame
Trap cover and you should remove that cover to clean it and throw away the white plastic
flame trap. Be sure to clean the center of the small nipple with something like a 1/16"
drill bit because it will probably be clogged with burnt oil sludge.
If you can't get the 1/4" hose onto the manifold side connection removing the thermostat
housing might give you the extra room necessary. I did use zip ties on both ends of this
run but I don't think that they were really needed.
All of the hard plastic lines that carry the hot, oily blow by gases do not age well, they
become brittle and often break, some have reported them breaking in 2-3 years. The large
line that runs from the oil trap to the large connection on the Flame Trap cover also has
rubber elbows at the ends and a hard plastic line running most of the way. This was also
cracked on our car. The rest of the rubber parts on our car around the PCV systems were
in good enough condition, and if I could have reached the large hose under the manifold
I would have replaced that with 5/8" heater hose without removing the manifold. Heater
hose is soft enough that it should bend and make the run without needing elbows. I'd use
screw type clamps at both ends. I didn't try this but wish I had.
You risk breaking the now brittle oil trap plastic if you try to do this, but might be worth
a try before taking it to a pro, or doing the full PCV, if you think it needs it - it probably does.
If you take off the oil trap cover you should be able to at least see the top end of the large
hose and get some idea of the condition.
Our PCV system was not badly clogged with sludge so this would have worked, but others
report badly clogged systems and then this repair alone would not work. You take a risk
if you don't do the entire job.
on the side of the intake manifold and reduced down to the size for the hard plastic
line, then another at the other end going from the hard plastic to 3/16". Some here have
reported 3/16" at both ends, that would in no way fit on the 1/4" side on our car.
I think that people have done this without removing the manifold. If you are ready to
give it a try get a light in there and see if you can pull off the end between the thermostat
and the 1/4" nipple on the side of the manifold. The hose on our car was crumbling apart.
I would look or feel there and make sure that all of the old elbow is off. Then with new
1/4" vac line try to use needle nose pliers to push it onto the nipple. The vac is so high
and ours was so tight that I don't think you need a clamp. I ran this line forward then over
the top of the manifold with about 8" of 1/4" line, then to a 1/4" brass coupler from Home
Depot, and for some reason the 3/16" line would fit (tight use some grease) over the 1/4"
coupler, then go the rest of the way with 3/16" line. This goes to a nipple on the Flame
Trap cover and you should remove that cover to clean it and throw away the white plastic
flame trap. Be sure to clean the center of the small nipple with something like a 1/16"
drill bit because it will probably be clogged with burnt oil sludge.
If you can't get the 1/4" hose onto the manifold side connection removing the thermostat
housing might give you the extra room necessary. I did use zip ties on both ends of this
run but I don't think that they were really needed.
All of the hard plastic lines that carry the hot, oily blow by gases do not age well, they
become brittle and often break, some have reported them breaking in 2-3 years. The large
line that runs from the oil trap to the large connection on the Flame Trap cover also has
rubber elbows at the ends and a hard plastic line running most of the way. This was also
cracked on our car. The rest of the rubber parts on our car around the PCV systems were
in good enough condition, and if I could have reached the large hose under the manifold
I would have replaced that with 5/8" heater hose without removing the manifold. Heater
hose is soft enough that it should bend and make the run without needing elbows. I'd use
screw type clamps at both ends. I didn't try this but wish I had.
You risk breaking the now brittle oil trap plastic if you try to do this, but might be worth
a try before taking it to a pro, or doing the full PCV, if you think it needs it - it probably does.
If you take off the oil trap cover you should be able to at least see the top end of the large
hose and get some idea of the condition.
Our PCV system was not badly clogged with sludge so this would have worked, but others
report badly clogged systems and then this repair alone would not work. You take a risk
if you don't do the entire job.
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