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Drivers Window Won't Move When the Engine is Running

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
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2004 - 2007 V70 R

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chrism
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Drivers Window Won't Move When the Engine is Running

Post by chrism »

2003 V70, 2.4NA, 225,000 miles:

I've got a weird issue with my drivers window freezing in any position it was last moved to, but only when the engine is running. If the key is in position I ACC or position II IGN, I can open and close the window all day long (as long as the engine isn't running when the key is in position II). I can even move the window when the key is turned OFF, as it should - you know how you can roll the window up for some period of time after shutting the key off. The problem also affects the mirror control and door locking. But only the drivers door window and lock are affected - the other three doors' windows and locks will move, even when in failure mode, regardless of whether they're being controlled from the drivers or passengers door .

This began about a month ago as a very intermittent thing, but now I can count on it not working. At best, I might get about three opportunities to move the window after the engine is started, then it will freeze. If the engine is running and the window is frozen, I can hold down on the switch with one hand and then turn the key back toward position I just enough to interrupt the ignition for a split second and then back to position II, sometimes quick enough to keep the engine running. That quick interruption in ignition allows the window to start moving. It never freezes in mid stroke as long as I keep holding the switch. Once I release the switch, regardless of window position, it will most likely be frozen in that position the next time I try to move it.

So far I've taken the DDM apart and lightly cleaned the contacts. I've disconnected, spray cleaned, and reconnected the following disconnects - 1 at window motor, two at the DDM, 1 at the door jamb. I left the tweeter wire alone. No change it behavior after all the cleaning. I'm kinda spooked by all this as I fear the problem may be ship side, given that an interruption in ignition wakes everything back up.

Also, would a VIDA/DICE setup be much help in these situations? I've resisted getting into all that - well so far have never really needed to. I guess if we're going to keep (affordably) driving these things I'm going to have to get into that stuff. Two P2's in the household.

Any suggestions as to the most logical step forward with this problem are greatly appreciated.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Yikes Chris. That's a weird one.

Does the lock/unlock 5x cycle reset the window modules on a P2? Maybe worth a try?
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Post by JRL »

Yeah, that IS weird. Have fun diagnosing this one!
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

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Post by beigg »

If you disconnect the door jam plug and provide an aux circuit to the window switch (spare wire and an alternate power source) , will it engage the window regulator?
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Post by chrism »

I'm leaning toward just taking it to the local Volvo indy and let him scan the car and see if it exposes anything. Another thing is that I don't think the car has ever had any sort of software update/reload.

Does anyone know if there is any tried-and-true documented procedure for building a VIDA DICE system - minimum ram needed, what versions of Windows will work, who to purchase the system from, how to load and activate the system, etc?

Thanks.

chrism
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Post by chrism »

beigg wrote:If you disconnect the door jam plug and provide an aux circuit to the window switch (spare wire and an alternate power source) , will it engage the window regulator?
beigg, are you saying provide just 12v +/- to the two appropriate contacts at the doorjamb disconnect and don't connect any of the other pins to anything?

Also, abscate, how is the lock/unlock 5x cycle reset performed?

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Post by beigg »

Yes on the door side.
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Post by precopster »

Disconnect the battery and turn ignition to PosII. Touch the disconnected lead to the other battery terminal. This will zero out any dormant voltage in the system. Reconnect the battery with ign in PosII and test with engine running. Electronic glitches require a full reset and this will probably do it.

If this doesn't work you will probably need a DDM reload at the dealer or if you have Dice/Vida you can ask Doublebug to do the same
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Post by abscate »

chrism wrote:
beigg wrote:If you disconnect the door jam plug and provide an aux circuit to the window switch (spare wire and an alternate power source) , will it engage the window regulator?
beigg, are you saying provide just 12v +/- to the two appropriate contacts at the doorjamb disconnect and don't connect any of the other pins to anything?

Also, abscate, how is the lock/unlock 5x cycle reset performed?
With key in driver door, just lock the car and unlock the car 5x, pausing a second or two on each step. See if that helps. This might be a P80 thing only, but free to try.
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chrism
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Post by chrism »

Thanks for all of the suggestions in helping to resolve this issue.

With fingers crossed, it appears this issue is resolved. I was never able to detect any kind of intermittent power interruption between the car and the door. So I noted the part number on the little white sticker on the bottom of the DDM. Actually there were three numbers - the part number and two other numbers that must have been some sort of codes. Then I set off for the pick-n-pull yard in search of a match. The closest match I could find was in a 2003 S60 (I have a 2003 V70.) The part number and the second number were a match, but the third number was different. I don't know what the third represents. Heck, it could have been a date code or anything. I looked at several 2001 thru 2004 S60's and V70's. The ONLY matching P/N I could find was in the 2003 S60. I never did find a 2003 V70 in any of the three yards I visited. $2 to get into the yard and $15 for the DDM. Took it home, installed it, and bingo - everything worked properly and has been doing so for two days now.

So I guess the lesson here is, at least with a 2003, it's not absolutely imperative that a reprogramming process has to follow a DDM replacement in order to make it work. Like replacing a DIM, with the correct part number and a bit of luck, the components can be replaced via plug-n-play.

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