99 Volvo S70 T5- ABS Issues

[DHTurner]

Hiya fellas!

After getting so much help and info from this community over the past few weeks, I'm sad to say that I still can't fix my issue. I posted once before about my abs light and check engine light being on. After what I've read here and the advice of experienced mechanics, the lights are still on my dash. But I did notice something odd, to me, at least. My brake light is on,as well. So I went to fill my brake fluid reservoir up, thinking it was low. Nope. It's still full.

A little background about my car, issues started after I replaced the alternator after the old one died. The battery was tested and was found to be good. But after that, that's when I the abs and check engine light began to come on intermittently. After about 2 weeks of that, the brake light came on. Also, the CVV solenoid went bad and the coil pack in cylinder 5 began misfiring which was giving the engine a decent shaking. I've since fixed those last two issues.
After bringing that issue to this forum, it was suggested to me that the ABS module was kaput. So I contacted Matty Moo and got a rebuilt one from him. After installing it, the lights remained. I'm beginning to think that my ABS module was probably fine (although, I'd rather have the better build of Matty's ABS).
But enough about that. My question is this: Is it possible that by switching out my alternator that I may have fouled something up that caused these lights to come on?

[EstVolvo]

What kind of alternator went in there?
Post a picture of the alternator.

[DHTurner]

It's midnight here. I will try to get some pics in the morning.

[abscate]

You need to get the ABS codes read with the higher end reader or VIDA

You could have sensor or wiring. Issues on the ABS.

Take a picture if your dash so we which lights are on, please

You can test your brake level sensor by removing the plug ( light should go off), then grounding the two pins. One should make no change and the other should light the brake light when grounded

The sensor pulls a pin on the DIM low, so not much to that circuit.

It's 7/4 in this diagram

[DHTurner]

Okay, as requested, I'm uploading the receipt for the Alternator I bought and the lights on the dash. the Alternator is an Ultima Part # R111052B 120 amps that I bought from O'reilly's and when it comes to the lights on the dashboard, the brake light pops in after driving for a while. Its early morning here on a Sunday so I haven't driven the car anywhere today just yet.

@abscate: I understand what you want me to do, however, I have a vague understanding of circuit diagrams. I would need to know exactly where the brake level sensor is in order to perform that test. I'll look it up later today as I'm pressed for time with other things.

The lights on the dashboard:

The alternator:

[abscate]

Okay - anything bad in the ABS (antilock brake SYSTEM - all components) will light up the ABS, TRACS light (skid marks) and the CEL if the ECU deems the failure important enough.

But you also need to add coolant - or check it at least, or your car will be AUTO-stopping soon. Thats why that light is RED!

The 7/4 component is the dipper in the top of the master cylinder reservior - it has two connections and you just run a probe from each to ground. You can also take it out, handling it with paper towel, and slide the float up down and see if the light goes off to test. I think the low brake fluid light is different than the ABS light.

IF the ABS light comes on when you first hit 15 mph, thats normal - thats the first time it checks itself for operation. If you listen carefully you will hear a Swedish BURP when it does this.

If it comes on after 10 minutes of driving or at speed, it is probably a chafed ABS sensor wire at one of the wheels rather than the ABS unit. Reading those codes will tell you that quicker and which wheel it is at, too.

Matty tests his ABS units before they go out, so I would rule that out with 99.99% certainty.

[DHTurner]

The ABS light is ALWAYS on from the time I start up the car until the time I shut it off. The Brake light comes on after a while of driving. And yes I'm aware of the coolant light. I'm just in the process of finding the leak. It's a slow leak so wherever it's coming from, it'll take me a little time.

My main concern right now is my alternator and whether or not it has enough amperage to fully power my volvo and all is systems. It is 120 amps. Is that too low? Could low amperage be the cause of the ABS system not operating correctly? Sort of like the ECU is rationing power to the more important parts of the car. All of my car's current problems started days to weeks after I replaced the alternator.
I'm sorry if this is becoming a nuisance. I'm just trying to look at all possibilities. I'm really trying all the things you all have suggested.

[EstVolvo]

120amp alternator is correct.
Post a picture of the alternator.
Check the radiator plastic ends with a flashlight for leaks once the thermostat is open and coolant is circulating.