Volvo DIY compared to Mercedes DIY

[1998v70xcbill]

i agree, mb parts are cheap, and replacable. compard to volvo. The new computers are a toss up on the gasser models. That's why i like 1998 volvos, no cpu problems so far. None to worry about in the 300sd 1985 (except for the abs, witch on on for a malfunction). Mercedes are built great, but newer ones i don't know.

[oragex]

I read a lot about the 300 series and also about the 190 series. It seems among the Mercedes lovers, these have been - and for some still are - iconic models. Much like a 3 Series from the 80's and 90's for a Bmw fan. I was always curious about these cars but never had the chance to sit inside one of these. Until recently when it hit me, if I'm in a scrap yard, there must be some of these cars in here. Sure enough, I found an S500 (2000's model), and 190E and another 300 series from the same era. I obviously just opened the door and sat on drivers seat. I cannot say how disappointed I felt considering the image I had about these cars. I'm 6'1" and all but the S series were way too small to fit inside. Seats were uncomfortable, and the interior just didn't look like it had a nice design. The S series was sure larger but again the seats were just unnoticeable and the dash board and instrumentation looked un-aesthetical and unappealing. I also went to sit in a large - I think the largest - Cadillac from early 2000's and the seats were so comfortable (probably the most comfortable of all cars I sat at the place) and the interior had a nice if very dark design.

As for the DIY from the original poster, I am not aware about the older Mercedes, but looking at repair DIY films on Youtube for post 2000's Mercedes it seems like a total pain to work on these cars. I also had a Passat and boy it was a royal pain to change the air filter, not to mention other things on that German car. For also having worked on a Japanese, I can say Volvo is almost always a very easy car to work on, something very close to the Japanese and recent Korean design which I consider to be the most easy for DIY of the cars I had (never had American models yet). But what's makes the definite difference in a 2001-2009 Volvo are the alloys and metals they use. All bolts, even the larger ones, are so easy to undo. In comparison, when I was about to undo a 14mm bolt on a Honda, I would have freaked out even before putting the ratchet on it, all bolts were horribly seized on that car.

[MrAl]

It's been hard finding a MVS-like forum for our new cars. The Toyota people are all basically clueless when something goes wrong, but luckily, there's a pretty good Chevy one.

If you ever need a hand with anything, I'd be glad to help - doesn't look like I'm that far from you .

That would be great! I have a garage and tools and all of that, I am just in need a some more knowledge. The SAS pump thing is driving me crazy since I can't seem to find any definitive answer other than "do the SAS pump delete." I am sure I can handle that as it looks easy, I would just rather fix the actual issue rather than trick the computer. I am also not sure how strict the emissions testing is in VA after being in cars that haven't needed the testing for a while.

The guy I bought the car from said it needs an air pump, but that (it seems) would be code P0410.

Hi,

Interesting. Why would you need an air pump if you dont get code 410? That would be my question.
If the air pump does not work in my 1998 v70 the SAS code 410 gets thrown pretty quick or at least goes into the 'pending' state.

When i first got my car the air pump was missing, so i had to buy one. The local auto stores were pricing them at over 600 dollars (USD) so i had to go online and find one, for 150 dollars. I had to get the old bracket from the guy who sold me the car, then install it. Lucky all the hoses were still there. I thought it would be harder to install than that, so i asked around the auto shops but then found out it only has two bolts to hold it in place, and that was that. So i installed it, took about 30 minutes. First i tested it though with a high power Mastech power supply to make sure it would work first. I also got the old unit from the guy, and so i took it apart to see what it looked like inside. Interesting little contraption, but it was all rusty and dirty so it was a mess.

Anyway, my air pump starts up now and then but mostly while idling, so you could listen to try to hear it run when you stop at a light or pull into a parking lot with the engine still running. Also, if the pump is bad you should be able to see that with a OBDII code reader. If you dont want to buy one Auto Zone will come outside and test it for you. If the code 410 does not come up right away it may state something about it "pending". If the code is pending that could mean something is wrong too, even though the check engine light did not come on yet. It is still in the process of verifying the error. Also when i got my inspection done, the air pump was marked with a big bright yellow mark which maybe meant that they were checking to see that it was actually installed in the car. Not sure why but that's what they did. Maybe now they are checking to see if people are trying to trick the computer, which i am sure is a well known trick now, and we the owners are not the only ones that know about it.

I would be interested to find out what they want to charge you to replace yours, or how much the Auto store would want for a new one for your car. What kind of car are you talking about here anyway? That would help too.

[1998v70xcbill]

Here's an example: Froozen calipler on front: This happened to my 300sd (85) and v70xc (98). The volvo refused to release the flex brake lines from the hard lines. Left lines in place and rotated calipier to install on the volvo. I have four new brake lines (for volvo) i will not install, becuase too hard. The 85 mercedes with a front bad calipler at 350k miles came off (and brake line at both ends) with no problem. Everything on the old mercedes is rebuildable with a basic tool kit. The volvo seats are nice. But the volvo interior loves to squeak, seats can rattle. Both are good cars with their unique problems. The mercedes bosch fuel injection system for the gasser, were I heard probrommatic. My old bosch diesel mechanical injection pump is original and works perfect. Both my cars engines are 5 cylinders and should out last their vehicle. Both great engines, both turbo's, but mercedes has and will live longer. If only I could get a volvo diesel in the states (us).

[j-dawg]

I just bought an '83 W123 240D a few months back, now with 293,000 miles. It's super easy to work in the engine bay. I've just started digging into the Volvo to do the valve stem seals and it is a stark contrast.

Incredibly slow car, the 240D. Unbelievably slow. I'm probably only going to keep it a few months, but I got a good deal on it and it's been a blast so far.

[oragex]

If only I could get a volvo diesel in the states (us).

I also post on an european Volvo forum (http://volvoforums.org.uk/) and I totally agree. Speaking of P2's, the 2001-2005 D5 is regarded as the best Volvo by the members, not only very economical but they say it's the sweetest engine with plenty of torque and a sweet tone.