2000 S70 NA P2 trans drop, subframe hangers, video valve body Topic is solved

[Ellipsis]

Please help! I'm about ready to give up on this car. For about the last 6 months my S70 has been intermittently throwing code P0740 (torque converter clutch circuit open) and going into limp home mode when it does (locking into 3rd gear). Clearing the code returns the car to normal operation for a while. I'm aware that replacing the torque converter clutch solenoid can fix this, but from what I hear it's difficult to find a shop willing to take on this difficult job. I'm also concerned that driving with this issue for so long may have cause more damage in the transmission. Plus it already has 170,000 miles on the original tranny. I don't want to put a used tranny in since I've heard of these transmissions failing with as little as 30,000 miles on them; I think it would be a risky waste of money. The issue often arises when I'm on my 45 minute drive home on the freeway, so if the issue occurs, I can't pull off to clear it until I reach home. I've probably driven about 500 miles in total with the car locked in third at about 60-70 mph. It also will frequently clunk hard upon acceleration, even without throwing codes. Do you think this is likely to have caused additional damage? What does a shop usually charge for a solenoid replacement? What about a rebuild and solenoid replacement? Should I just get rid of this car?

[precopster]

I just gave up on my NA 2000 V70 but for different reasons (totally cracked interior and over 5 years in her with no A/C. It shared the 5 speed that your car had and achieved a creditable 355,000kms on the original transmission. I fed her a diet of synthetic fluid since 250,000kms. I miss the great economy of the NA and the bullet-proof Denso engine management system.

Most of these transmissions need a rebuilt valve body, not throwing one small part at it (which would cost around 8 hours of labour)

If you really want the transmission repair to last you should speak to Reamman or VBX about a valve body which contains ALL of the solenoids and some quite intricate fluid galley ways. The cost would be around $500 for the valve body.

If you want to keep driving her until she grinds to a halt you should invest in a ELM327 and clear codes while on the move (we've been doing this with my wife's 2002 XC70 for 2 years now and we are pretty over it)

[Ellipsis]

I just gave up on my NA 2000 V70 but for different reasons (totally cracked interior and over 5 years in her with no A/C. It shared the 5 speed that your car had and achieved a creditable 355,000kms on the original transmission. I fed her a diet of synthetic fluid since 250,000kms. I miss the great economy of the NA and the bullet-proof Denso engine management system.

Most of these transmissions need a rebuilt valve body, not throwing one small part at it (which would cost around 8 hours of labour)

If you really want the transmission repair to last you should speak to Reamman or VBX about a valve body which contains ALL of the solenoids and some quite intricate fluid galley ways. The cost would be around $500 for the valve body.

If you want to keep driving her until she grinds to a halt you should invest in a ELM327 and clear codes while on the move (we've been doing this with my wife's 2002 XC70 for 2 years now and we are pretty over it)

Thanks for the info about the valve bodies. I had thought that the valve body only contained the shift solenoids, and that the torque converter lockup solenoid was in a different location, but I guess I was wrong? I'll have to ask my mechanic what he would charge to put another valve body in.

[precopster]

TCC lockup is MOST definitely part of the valve body and mostly controlled by the SLU solenoid. The Transgo shift kit for the AW55-50SN may be of interest to you for about $140 however you would need to find a mechanic with a spare 6 hours and a willing spirit to fit it. Most of them won't in case it doesn't do as intended. There is a TCC modification in the kit as well as many other slight changes. Also there's a TCC check valve and spring in the last portion of the valve body.

I've fitted this kit 3 times to my own vehicles. The best result was with a low mileage S60AWD (80k miles)
I've attached the install guide as a PDF which shows the location of the solenoids.
Also I shot a video of the procedure:

Because your car seems to ONLY have one code I would be looking at simply removing the SLU solenoid just to clean and test it. It's a lazy Sunday afternoon's work if you have some special tools.

I recently fabricated some subframe droppers from high tensile M14 threaded rod as pictured so I could drop the subframe enough to replace the brake booster. Not that much to undo apart from the cross braces keeping the exhaust up high and one earth strap from the battery. You could do the same and avoid having to use an engine support beam. This would give you access to all the front mounted bolts on the valve body cover.

[Ellipsis]

TCC lockup is MOST definitely part of the valve body and mostly controlled by the SLU solenoid. The Transgo shift kit for the AW55-50SN may be of interest to you for about $140 however you would need to find a mechanic with a spare 6 hours and a willing spirit to fit it. Most of them won't in case it doesn't do as intended. There is a TCC modification in the kit as well as many other slight changes. Also there's a TCC check valve and spring in the last portion of the valve body.

I've fitted this kit 3 times to my own vehicles. The best result was with a low mileage S60AWD (80k miles)
I've attached the install guide as a PDF which shows the location of the solenoids.
Also I shot a video of the procedure:

Because your car seems to ONLY have one code I would be looking at simply removing the SLU solenoid just to clean and test it. It's a lazy Sunday afternoon's work if you have some special tools.

I recently fabricated some subframe droppers from high tensile M14 threaded rod as pictured so I could drop the subframe enough to replace the brake booster. Not that much to undo apart from the cross braces keeping the exhaust up high and one earth strap from the battery. You could do the same and avoid having to use an engine support beam. This would give you access to all the front mounted bolts on the valve body cover.

Wow! Some really detailed information! Thank you very much!

[Ellipsis]

What are people's thoughts on buying one of these remanufactured valve bodies off of ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RE5F22A-AW55-50 ... mf&vxp=mtr

[precopster]

You need to determine if your valve body is stamped A or with no stamp...so just buying one without removal of yours first is not wise.

You'll notice that the one in their ad is stamped "B" which is for late 2001 and over years.

Seems like they have great feedback!!

[Herb Goltz]

If the rest of the car is really clean, you could consider a rebuilt with warranty from Erie Vovo-- I think they are around $1100 and can be shipped. This transmission is used in other makes, and valve body replacement is much more common in Europe-- here it is hard to find people to work on them.

[Ellipsis]

You need to determine if your valve body is stamped A or with no stamp...so just buying one without removal of yours first is not wise.

You'll notice that the one in their ad is stamped "B" which is for late 2001 and over years.

Seems like they have great feedback!!

Oh! I'm glad I asked. I had no idea about the stamp.

If the rest of the car is really clean, you could consider a rebuilt with warranty from Erie Vovo-- I think they are around $1100 and can be shipped. This transmission is used in other makes, and valve body replacement is much more common in Europe-- here it is hard to find people to work on them.

Good to know. Although the allure of a cheap, normal, non-European car is getting stronger. I'm still waiting to hear back from my mechanic if he is willing to do a valve body replacement.

[precopster]

Your car is not amongst the compatible cars in the list provided. The A build and non stamped valve bodies are a different part number from the B build valve bodies. I've done my research on valve bodies and believe me when I say this won't work with your car if it's a "B" build they are providing.

Better to go through Reamman or VBX and get them on the phone and talk to them about your car. They may know off hand exactly which valve body suits.