After reading different stories (horrible/failure/success) regarding to front engine mounts (passenger side and front center hydraulic) replacement, I am worrying about engine shift out of position when jacking it up too high to get front hydraulic mount in/out. I measured new front hydraulic mount's bolt (on top of mount), it is about 1.5 inches tall. This means I need to jack up engine from oil pan up to about 2 inches to have enough clearance to get old front hydraulic mount out. New mount is guarantee taller than old mount. So I will need more than 2 inches of clearance to put in new front hydraulic mount ! I am worry about engine will shift out of position when it is raised up more than 2 inches because all the bolts/nuts (top torque mount, rear mount top nut and passenger side mount bolts - into engine) are out.
Can I use 2 more jacks to rise both brake rotors (wheels off to replace mounts) when jacking up the engine ? I think this will reduce the chance to stress axles/CV joint and hopefully keep engine from moving side way when jacking it up.
Any suggestion/comment is appreciated.
Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng
1995 855 NA Engine Mount Replacement Question
- dosbricks
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It won't need to be raised 2". Remove the bottom bolt completely and the hydraulic mount will pivot sideways. The loose fit of the top stud in the engine mount hole will let it worm it's way out. Volvo says don't raise the engine more than 30mm which is about 1-1/8". Add to that the approximate amount the old mount has settled and it will come out. It would be a good idea to hook up the top torque mount and screw the rear center mount top nut on a little way. You will be raising the side of the engine you are working on, not jacking the engine straight up.
The rear hydraulic mount is usually the one in the worst condition since the engine wants to torque that way under acceleration. I found it harder to get out than the front center one.
I put the car on jack stands but stacked some cribbing under the front tires to keep the axles straighter--better than jacking on the rotors.
The rear hydraulic mount is usually the one in the worst condition since the engine wants to torque that way under acceleration. I found it harder to get out than the front center one.
I put the car on jack stands but stacked some cribbing under the front tires to keep the axles straighter--better than jacking on the rotors.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
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lcc014
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Thank you for the explanation. According your explanation, getting old front hydraulic mount out needs only about 1-1/8". What about put in a new mount ? New mount is always taller than old mount. That means engine needs to be raised a bit higher to 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" ?? Would upper torque mount and rear center mount be Okay when engine is raised to this height ?
For stacking some cribbing under front tires to keep axles straighter, how do you do that, after car on jack stand or before ?
Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng
For stacking some cribbing under front tires to keep axles straighter, how do you do that, after car on jack stand or before ?
Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng
- dosbricks
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Just jack the front edge of the oil pan (with a 2x4 atop the jack to distribute the weight) the minimum amount--probably hardly more than 30mm. That should do it--if doesn't--post back. Smarter people than I will advise you.
Work on a level surface. Raise the car to the jack stand height you want, then stack as much flat lumber under the tires as you can get. Then jack it higher as much as you want to lift the axles (a few inches), stack in more flat lumber as much as you can get, and let it back down on the jack stands. It will be resting on stands and tires but mostly on the stands.
Work on a level surface. Raise the car to the jack stand height you want, then stack as much flat lumber under the tires as you can get. Then jack it higher as much as you want to lift the axles (a few inches), stack in more flat lumber as much as you can get, and let it back down on the jack stands. It will be resting on stands and tires but mostly on the stands.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
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scot850
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Just did this on my 2000 V70 base. I removed the cooling fan assembly and had to jack it up a fair amount to get the old one out, and a little more for the new one. I was not comfortable jacking it too high (concerns on radiator hoses) so ended up having to gently knock it in with a hammer to get the bottom end in. Did you release the top torque mount before doing this?
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
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lcc014
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I saw posts in this forum - top torque mount released (bolt/nut). I am not comfortable with the rear mount nut off. I prefer to keep it unscrewed at the top of the mount to give it some space for rear side of engine to move upward a little bit.scot850 wrote: ↑22 Apr 2017, 09:29 Just did this on my 2000 V70 base. I removed the cooling fan assembly and had to jack it up a fair amount to get the old one out, and a little more for the new one. I was not comfortable jacking it too high (concerns on radiator hoses) so ended up having to gently knock it in with a hammer to get the bottom end in. Did you release the top torque mount before doing this?
Neil.
Did you undo top torque mount bolt/nut ?
Thanks.
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scot850
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Volvo instructions say to remove the top torque mount bolt before lifting or you are stressing it.
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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scot850
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Should have added, also undo and remove the 2 front nuts for the lower torque rod also. Sorry, that is a bad oversight on my part.
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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